Many people now realize that using Wi-Fi is not wise – both for security and health reasons. Wired Ethernet-based internet access goes a long way toward solving these issues. However, even a wired internet system can cause issues if set up incorrectly. This is because of the electric fields and electromagnetic interference (EMI) that many new modems and routers create. These fields then travel along your Ethernet cable to your computer and can become just as problematic as Wi-Fi.
In this article, you will learn how to install a wired internet system with no electric fields and very little EMI. For electrically sensitive individuals, this will allow you to use your computer for longer periods of time without symptoms. For health-conscious people, this is the next step in creating a truly low-EMF home for you and your family.
Article Quick Summary
- Set up a simple wired internet system as described below and in this article.
- Purchase this Ethernet ground adapter kit.
- If your laptop or device only has a USB-C or USB-A port, use this ground adapter.
- Ground the Ethernet adapter to your electrical system or to the outside per this video:
Why Wired Internet Systems Have Electric Fields and EMI
Before we move on to recommended solutions, I want to explain the primary reasons why EMI is created by a wired internet system:
- Modems and routers all have a switched-mode power supply (SMPS) that is plugged into an outlet. The EMI created by this SMPS can travel along your electrical wiring and Ethernet cables. You can test this with an AM radio and electric field meter (pictured below).
- Newer “Gigabit” modems and routers that allow for “blazing fast internet speeds” of 500 or 1,000 mbps create excess high frequency EMI that travels along your Ethernet cable to your computer. Here is a technical explanation as to why this happens. Whenever possible, I suggest you use lower bandwidth equipment rated at 10/100 mbps. This is still fast enough to stream movies on Netflix or YouTube.
- In some offices and homes, companies will install Power Over Ethernet (PoE). This allows a small amount of electricity to flow through the Ethernet cables, typically to power a phone/modem system in separate rooms. Unfortunately, PoE cables are not shielded for the high amounts of EMI they carry and these systems are very unhealthy for users.
- Rather than using Wi-Fi or long, shielded Ethernet cables, some people use PLC (power-line communication) systems to transmit internet data around the home on the electrical wiring system. Unfortunately, these PLC systems create an incredibly high amount of EMI (“dirty electricity”) on your home wiring. This EMI then radiates into your living environment and is transmitted to your computer.
How to Measure Electric Fields
In the following images, you can see both high and low electric field readings for a wired laptop. The laptop is running on battery power and utilizes an external keyboard and mouse. The first picture shows very high electric field readings with a typical wired internet system. The second image shows healthy readings (ideally below 3 Volts/meter at your computer). Below the pictures, I explain exactly how to achieve these low electric field readings.
Electric field readings of over 10 V/m are highly problematic. Some people feel drained or experience headaches from sitting at their computer and electric fields and EMI can be the primary cause. Levels this high greatly reduce the amount of time I can spend on a computer without symptoms.
This electric field measurement was taken just a couple minutes later once the proper setup was in place. The only difference is there is now almost no electric field transmitted by the Ethernet cable. Electric field readings below 2 V/m are much healthier for any extended use of your computer. I am using the Gigahertz Solutions ME3851A for my electric field measurements.
How to Set Up a Low-EMF Internet Connection
I have experimented with a lot of computer equipment over the years to find brands and models that allow me to work with fewer symptoms. The following is a home internet system that creates low EMI, measured with both an electric field meter and AM radio.
- If your cable internet provider is any company except AT&T or Verizon, I suggest you purchase your own Arris SB8200 cable modem. This will integrate with Comcast, Charter, Cox and most regional providers. If you have fiber optic internet service to your home, you want to confirm that you can disable the Wi-Fi on the fiber modem (ONT) that your company provides. You cannot purchase your own modem with fiber optic service.
- For your router, I would get a simple wired version, such as this inexpensive Mikrotik or ElectraHealth wired router. Alternatively, you can get this Netgear N600 router that has an easy on/off button for Wi-Fi. A router is necessary because Comcast and other internet providers do not automatically provide multiple IP addresses. If you need occasional Wi-Fi access, many of my clients get the JRS AC1900 Eco-Router. You get an $8 discount on the JRS eco-router with my code JJ21FHRE at checkout.
- If your modem does provide multiple IP address, then you just need an Ethernet switch to provide additional Ethernet ports in your home. I use this slower TP-Link version and this metal 8 port switch.
- You will then need to purchase two Ethernet cables to connect to your laptop or device. The reason for purchasing two cables can be seen in the next step. I recommend these thin, shielded Cat8 cables or these shielded Cat-7 cables from Electra Health. Two 25-foot cables are ideal, but you can get shorter or longer cables based on your needs. You will also need a short cable that is shielded and has metal RJ45 endings to place between your modem and the Ethernet switch.
- The final step to have a low-EMF internet connection is to utilize an Ethernet ground adapter. This ground adapter will be placed in between your two Ethernet cables and will ground most of the lower-frequency electric fields and EMI (below 1 MHz) so that it is not being transmitted to your computer. You will run the first Ethernet cable from your router or switch to the ground adapter. Then you will run your second cable from the ground adapter to your computer. Here is a picture showing what the ground adapter looks like. If your laptop does not have an Ethernet port, you can use a USB or USB-C ground adapter from either ElectraHealth or Tech Wellness. They are the same product.
An Ethernet Ground Adapter will reduce much of the EMI flowing to your computer.
[The above video will show you some of the steps I take to reduce the electric fields at my computer.]
How to Properly Ground Your Wired Internet System
The following videos and sections will help you see how I ground my wired Ethernet system.
[This video shows you the specific items that will allow you to ground your Ethernet connection if you do not have access to an electrical ground in your home. You will need two shielded CAT8 cables, a ground adapter, a gator-to-gator clip, a 10′ extension cable and a thin 2′ copper stake that you can buy for about $2 at your local hardware store or from LessEMF. The total cost for this setup is approximately $75. If you create your own system, just make sure you have metal-to-metal all the way to the ground outside and that the electric fields at your computer are below 2 V/m.]
The following video shows why I typically ground my Ethernet system to the outside – there can be EMI on your electrical safety ground.
Whether you are electrically sensitive or you simply want to have a healthier home for your family, the above solution will make quite a difference. Many people are now aware that Wi-Fi is dangerous. However, microwave radiation from wireless technology is only one part of the EMF equation. Electromagnetic interference can be just as problematic and could be the reason why you experience symptoms from computer use. Hopefully this article will help you have a truly healthy, low-EMF internet connection for many years to come.
Note: If you would like to obtain an EMF meter to check the electric fields at your computer, I suggest either the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B or ME3851A (pictured above). You get a 10% discount on your Safe Living Technologies purchase with my distributor code of EMFA. I also suggest the Radio Shack AM Radio Model 12-467 or 12-464 that can be found on ebay. Or this Retekess shortwave radio. You can always contact me to discuss how to do this.
Why Re-Measuring Electric Fields Is Important
I recently had a situation where I wasn’t feeling well working at my computer. It was similar to what I had felt with high 60 Hz electric field exposures in the past, so I re-measured the fields at my laptop. Unfortunately, they were incredibly high. It turned out that my Ethernet ground system had failed and extreme electric fields were transmitting from my router to may laptop and external keyboard and mouse. The Gator-to-Gator clip had corroded and was no longer connected to the Earth outside my home.
Here are the electric field readings on my Gigahertz Solutions ME3851A that were giving me a headache and causing fatigue while I worked. Anything over 10 V/m is considered extreme, so these readings were much more than I would ever want to be exposed to while working:
Below are the grounded Electric Field measurements at my workstation without an Ethernet internet connection (background levels with the laptop not charging or connected via Ethernet). Being under 1 V/m at your workstation is really ideal.
I then replaced my corroded Gator-to-Gator clip with thick electrical wire (4 gauge) and a grounding rod that I got from the local electrical store for under $20. This is what my setup now looks like:
Once I had my Ethernet system properly grounded again, the electric fields at my laptop went back down to a healthy level ~ just above 1 V/m. After I accomplished this, my symptoms while computing greatly diminished over the next several days.
[Electric Field levels at my laptop once the proper grounding had been reestablished.]
The lesson learned here is to double check the EMF levels at your laptop every once in a while. Parts fail, especially once they are over five years old. EMF levels will change over time as you bring in new equipment and things change in your home and neighborhood. Here are the EMF meters I recommend to stay on top of this. Hopefully this knowledge will keep you computing in a safe way for many years and decades to come.
I am always here for your EMF questions. You can see how I work on this page.
Thank you,
Jeromy
You can download a printable PDF of this article here. The updated PDF version can be found here.
Updated April 2024. Originally published April 2017.
Disclosure: EMF Analysis is partly supported by a small commission for purchases made through some product links on this page. This income enables me to continue to research and write about this important topic. Thank you for supporting my work.
Ruth Ruddock
Jeromy, we do not have a cable internet service…we have Hughes Net Satellite service. The signal comes in from the dish on a cable. It is wired in by ethernet cable to a NetGear splitter that goes to each of our two computers. The computer is plugged into a non-grounded outlet, but we can move the computer (mine) to another area of the house where the outlet is grounded.
Does your information still apply to us, or not.
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Ruth,
Yes, you can still use this setup. First, you would want to measure the EMI to see if you actually have an issue. If you don’t feel great at your computer, this could be the reason.
Then I would use the low-speed Ethernet switch mentioned above and the Ethernet ground adapter.
This should reduce any EMI on your home internet system.
Jeromy
Sarab
Hi, thank you so much for this article. I wish to apply the principles laid out, but you mention that it’s not for Verizon. If I have Verizon is there a different way to work this out? Or is Verizon going to be bad from an EMF perspective either way? Thanks a lot.
Jeromy
Hi,
Please read through the comment thread here where I talk about Verizon Fios:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-internet-connection/#comment-9839
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Don
Hi,
Thanks for the info in your article. In the video on testing for EMF levels, you mention that your AM transistor’s dial should be on the extreme right. However in the next video, testing for EMF levels at grounding connection, you mention that the dial should be on the extreme left. Please clarify.
Jeromy
Hi Don,
You can have the AM dial any place that does not have a local station. Then it will be picking up any radiated EMI in the environment. Typically all the way to the left (500 KHz) and right (2 MHz) are where there are no stations.
Here is an example of EMI across all bands:
Wide-Spectrum EMI from Dimmer Switch: https://youtu.be/7Hwa6prYI9M
Hope this clarifies things.
Jeromy
Eda Ashby
I currently have DSL thru the phone company. Does that make more EMF? Does your system still apply or would it be better to get cable?
Jeromy
Hi Eda,
Thanks for asking.
DSL can create higher amounts of EMI than cable. I would switch to cable if you have the option and then follow the process outlined above to ground your Ethernet connection.
This article has the cable modems/routers I recommend:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
monica kerr
Jeromy – we don’t have option for cable, only DSL – we live in the mountains. Any router options you could recommend? also we are thinking of getting satellite internet in the future – what kind of EMI does that emit? thanks so much! great article!
Jeromy
Hey Monica,
Thanks for writing.
With DSL, I would just work with your local provider to have a modem that doesn’t emit WiFi. Then you can use your own wired router or eco-router.
Options include:
ElectraHealth wired router ($90): https://www.electrahealth.com/wifi_free_wired_only_router.html?aff=2
High Speed Asus AC1900 Eco Router: https://www.jrseco.com/p/jrs-eco-100-wifi-d2-on-asus?c=6680
The AC1900 only has the WiFi on when a device connects to it. Then it radiates at 90% less power than other routers. It also has an “on/off” button for WiFi so it can be completely turned off. The speeds of this router are very high ~ up to 400 mbps for WiFi and over a gigabit for wired connections.
JRS offers my clients a discount of 7.5% on any purchase. You will enter this code at checkout: JJ21FHRE
And, yes, Starlink will be a great option for you. I plan to use it when I move to the mountains one day and live off-grid. The main thing is to put the dish 150-200 feet from the home so the RF emissions from the dish are not high in home. You can wire it into the home to your own router/ethernet splitter from there.
I’ll have an article about this soon.
Let me know what route you go.
Jeromy
Dani
Hi Jeromy,
I noticed in the article that you said “unless you have Verizon or AT&T,” in which case I do. Would that not be helpful if I do? Could I still have them install a better modem or purchase one? I have Lyme and recently have become very EMF sensitive. I recently purchased a cat8 and MacBook dongle at the advice of another article that I read, but it did nothing. It’s still emitting high levels of EMF. I’m going in circles and don’t quite understand the article in depth and I need to get on my computer for work now that I have gotten a little better. Do you have any insight into what can be done or what I’m doing wrong?
Thank you for your time,
Dani
Jeromy
Hi Dani,
Thanks for your comment. I responded via email where I will be able to help you more efficiently.
Jeromy
Deb DeBiase
Ruth I also have HughesNet. It comes in the house as you say–via cable, but mine goes to a HughesNet modem and then to a splitter. Am I reading correctly that you do not use their modem at all, you go straight to the splitter? They set me up with their modem before the splitter even though both my husband and I use hard-wired computers and no wireless. Maybe I can ditch it! ??
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
Give them a call to see if this possible. I would like to know for other readers.
Generally, a modem is always needed for the data coming into the home.
One suggestion is to still use the TP-Link ethernet switch mention in point #2 above. This will likely reduce the EMI produced by our modem that is coming to your computers.
Jeromy
Deb DeBiase
Jeromy,
I will visit my calmest head-space and give Hughes a call…LOL. Hopefully if will not be like pulling teeth to get a concise and accurate answer!
Stay tuned for the results.
Also, I am just beginning to build my safer network. I have been asked by my husband to provide for a wireless connection , but in the safest manner . One that can be turned off. I appreciate so much the helpful resource you have created here on this site… I am reading past posts for now…
Deb DeBiase
I called Hughes and Yes the modem is necessary. However a router is not if the computer is hardwired. For some reason I am using a router in between the modem and our wired computers. Busily blasting a signal I imagine. I recently looked for an On/Off switch and did not see one. Just “Power”. Probably have a Router there because I did not know a simple splitter would be sufficient, which is to say I did not ask the right questions to the person who set me up. Plus I did not fully comprehend the risks of WiFi. Learning now……
Deb DeBiase
I called HughesNet. It is not possible to give the Modem a pass.
Comcast is coming to my neighborhood. I am trying to decide if we are defecting to them. If so I want to get the initial set up correct and safe from the get-go. . In any event, I going to clean up the EMF around this house, and I’m very happy to have found this site and blog! I will be a work in progress…..
Chris
It sounds like Ruth has Gen4 service and you have Gen5. We used to have Gen4 and with that you needed a router to come off the modem. With Gen5, the modem also doubles as the router.
AJ
Hi Jeromy,
What do you think about Lloyd Burrell’s review of the HF35C meter? He’s saying that it doesn’t cover the entire frequency range and measurement units are not v/m which he says is optimal for health. http://www.electricsense.com/7881/hf35c-emf-meter-my-review-gigahertz-solutions/
I would greatly appreciate knowing your opinion as I don’t want to spend lots of money on the wrong meter.
Thank you
AJ
Jeromy
Hey AJ,
There are two mid-level RF meters worth getting. The HF35C and the Accoustimeter.
I like the HF35C best for its ability to determine where sources are located and its sensitivity.
The Accoustimeter does have a wider frequency range (will pick up the 5.0 GHz WiFi), but some tests have shown it is not as accurate in that wider frequency range as stated. The Accoustimeter is also not as sensitive as as the HF35C, but it is still a good meter to have.
Whether a meter is reading in V/m or uW/m^2 (microwatts per meter squared) is not that important. What is important is that the meter is able to measure peak power density levels. Both of these meters can do this.
You can get either meter here for around $300 with the code EMFA-10 at checkout. With this 10% discount, it will be the best price you can find for either meter:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/AcoustimeterAM-10.aspx
Both of these meters will be much better than the Cornet ED88T for RF, but not as accurate or sensitive as the professional RF meters that are over $1,000.
Good luck,
Jeromy
AJ
Thank you Jeromy.
I’m interested in purchasing some of the meters you recommend. Regarding the body voltage meter, I’m not sure which version to get, the one with the ground stake or without?
“3.) For Electric Fields via body voltage, I recommend the Body Voltage Meter with grounding chord for $109. You can buy a 2 foot copper grounding wire for $1 at your local hardware store for your ground.”
Do you mean that the 2 foot copper grounding wire replaces the grounding chord or is needed to work with the grounding chord?
I’m reading on lessemf.com that the ground stake is recommended when “- You have voltage or dirty electricity on your ground lines or You don’t trust the ground in your building”. Any idea how likely this is, for the ground line in the average home to have dirty electricity?
Also, my brother works long hours in a mall and it’s not possible for him to ground to the earth. I want to test body electricity for him because I suspect there may be smart meters or faulty electrical wiring in his work area but I’m not sure if the ground line is reliable. What would you recommend?
Thank you,
AJ
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
Yes, you can make your own grounding rod with a basic copper wire from the hardware store.
I am no longer a big fan of the body voltage test. It’s a bit misleading in how important body voltage is. Also, the utility ground wire is often not that reliable for this test.
Instead, go with the meters I suggest above that directly measure magnetic, electric, RF and EMI (dirty electricity) fields.
Jeromy
AJ
Thanks Jeromy. For magnetic & electric fields, you write that the Alpha Labs UHS2 is better than Gigahertz Solutions ME3851A. Do they both do the same thing? Are you saying that you recommend getting the UHS2 rather than the ME3851A?
AJ
Also, regarding the AlphaLab Line EMI Meter, there is some info on the shopping page that conflicts what you have written on your site & your comments regarding Stetzerizer Meters. They say “It doesn’t appear to take into consideration frequency or time very well, so its usefulness for truly measuring the energy being presented by power line EMI (dirty electricity) compared to the Stetzerizer Microsurge Meter is still unclear. For this reason, we do not recommend this meter as a replacement for the Stetzerizer Microsurge Meter.”
Just wondering if I still need the Stetzerizer meter. Thanks a lot for your helpfulness & patience with answering questions.
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
The Stetzerizer company is used to selling their own meter, so they downplay the Alpha Labs model. I would purchase from here because you get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10:
http://slt.co/Products/PowerLineMeters/LineEMIMeter.aspx
This is the best price possible.
Also, if you get the ME3851A, then you have a good Gauss meter and electric field meter in one. The UHS2 is great (3-Axis), but unless you have lots of money, I would just get the ME3851A:
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/ME3851A.aspx
Note that if you get the HF35C for RF and the following carrying case for both your RF meter and the ME3851A, you will have a great meter setup for your personal use.
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeterAccessories/MeterCaseK5.aspx
Jeromy
AJ
Jeromy, so the UHS2 measures only magnetic, NOT electric? If I got the UHS2, would I need another meter for electric?
Thank you
AJ
Jeromy
AJ – Yes, it only measure magnetic fields. You would need another meter (like the ME3851A or ME3830) to measure electric fields.
You could get a body voltage meter for electric fields, but it is pretty limited in what it actually measures.
Jeromy
AJ
I have found your page on How to Measure Dirty Electricity. Our readings throughout the house are between 1350 and 1550 mV. I can even hear what sounds like a radio station. Is this typical for an average home? Do you have any suggestions on how to find any devices or appliances that are causing the issue?
AJ
Jeromy, I ordered the Alpha Lab EMI Meter from ElectraHealth.com (Stetzerizer-US.com) and they sent me just the meter and cable in a box without case and without guide. I have no idea what to do. Just plug it in the wall? How do I know what levels are acceptable and what are not?
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I suggest that you either read my book or book a session with me here. The book is on this page too.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
Dogan
Hello Jeromy and thank you for sharing your scientific and technical expertise!
My family suffers from CIRS/MCS and all the coinfections that go with that. What do you do when your modem is radiating a high HF Wave but the ethernet cables and computers seem ok?
The ground wire from the HughesNet dish is attached to an external faucet. Is your grounding protocol still the first thing I should implement? Secondly, is there a shield I can make to cover the modem?
Jeromy
Hi Dogan,
Thanks for writing.
I have some specific information that will help you with HughesNet. I have quiet a few clients who have run into this issue.
To adequately help you, we need to do an email or phone/Skype consult. You can find these options here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
CC
Hi Jeromy,
I am wondering how far down into the ground I need to drive my copper ground rod in order for it to function properly (I live in CO in a dry, arid environment). I see yours looks to be sticking up out of your lawn quite a bit…If it sticks up like this would I need to worry about lightning striking it & if it did happen to strike it could some of the current be carried along the copper cable back into the house?
Just want to make sure that my DYI grounding rod will be safe before connecting it to the Ethernet ground switch.
Thanks!
Jeromy
Hi CC,
The distance into the ground is not that important for the Ethernet ground adapter.
More than lightning strikes, the bigger issue is attaching yourself to ground current from the local electrical grid. Many neighborhoods have this.
I discuss the issue with grounding using special sheets for sleeping and bed canopies in these articles:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/bed-canopies/
https://www.emfanalysis.com/is-grounding-good-for-you/
If you reach out to me via email I will share my new way of eliminating electric fields at your computer without needing to ground anything.
Sending my best,
Jeromy
Amir Borenstein
Just noticed a few days ago that when I play videos on my computers (from the net) the FM radio becomes very noisy (It is usually on in my house). I guessed that there are some EMI emissions from the network cables in my house. I told myself that some day I will connect the ground of the network cables to the ground in my house. Now, since you have shown that this can actually work I will go and do so.
Thank you and best regards,
Amir Borenstein
PT
I was taught to take aluminum foil tape and wrap it around the ends of all wires/plugs where they come out of the outlet. It supposedly reduces longitudinal waves (exotic waves). Doing this in a room makes it much more comfortable for me. I also drape a piece of Aaronia 2000 over the modem and power supply which also helps.
TB
Very interesting PT — so are you essentially taping where the electrical plug inserts into the electrical socket in the wall — and sealing any electrical leakage?
Jeromy
The issue with this is that it won’t necessarily reduce the EMI being transmitted on your Ethernet cables from the modem/router. You will only know if this is happening by measuring the EMI as I outline above.
Barb Payne
Thanks, Jeromy.
Does this reduce the computer user’s EMF exposure only if it’s that his/her computer is NOT plugged into a grounded electrical outlet?
For example, if a user always uses a desktop computer that has a 3-prong power cable plugged into a grounded electrical outlet, will there be an exposure-reduction benefit for the user if set up as you’ve explained in this new post? [Even if the answer is “no” re the user, would there be a emission-reduction benefit improving the environment wherever in the building the modem and the ethernet cable are, or maybe everywhere in the building because the modem is connected to the building’s electrical system?]
Same question for if the desktop computer has only a 2-prong power cable?
Same question for if it’s a portable computer that has a 3-prong power cable?
Same question for if it’s a portable computer that has a 2-prong power cable?
In appreciation,
Barb
Jeromy
Hi Barb,
The short answer is that you really only know by measuring as I outline above. For healthy computer use, you want to make sure that your electric field exposure is low (bottom picture above).
It does help to have your desktop grounded through the plug, but you are also begin subjected to more electric fields when it is plugged in. This is why you want the desktop computer away from your body/desk.
For laptop computers, I always recommend that you use battery power and do not have it plugged in while you are using it. Then you just need to reduce any EMI coming through your Ethernet system.
Jeromy
Barb Payne
Oh yes, my desktop computer is 5 to 6 feet away from me (with corded mouse and corded keyboard). My screen is about 3 feet away from me (and contains no audio speakers). My USB audio speakers are 3 and 4 feet away from me, powered by separate electrical cord, and I turn off the power to them whenever not actively using them.
And I only use my laptop on battery power, and with a separate corded keyboard and corded mouse so that I can push the laptop farther away from me. I keep the laptop’s audio speakers turned off unless absolutely necessary to use them. I keep the laptop’s screen brightness at the lowest setting. [I think it’s unconscionable how high the magnetic field emissions of laptop hard drives are allowed to be… directly where usually most users are for long periods of time actively touching the machine and resting at least one hand/wrist/arm, plus if it’s a child or other short person using the laptop then all his/her upper body (including head) are swamped by that massive MF.]
I think many people get so wrapped up in reducing RF/wireless that they neglect prudently avoiding the other types of EMFs. So it’s great you posted this new article, Jeromy.
Also turning audio speakers off — whether they’re independent or built into the screen — I find significantly reduces emissions and significantly increases comfort. Even choosing a lower volume makes a significant improvement.
Also, modern corded computer cameras/microphones — for sure the accessory USB ones, I don’t know for sure about the built-in ones but I think so — whatever types of waves they emit (I guess, to enhance noise-filtering and visual quality), I find them excruciating. So I stick with an old Logitech microphone (USB powered), no camera, and make sure that all the sound and photo/video enhancing settings on my desktop and laptop are set to OFF.
Jeromy
You have nearly the perfect computer set up Barb. Great work!
Do you also add Flux to your screen to lessen the blue light? I even use it during the day:
https://justgetflux.com/
I use the blue light reducing glasses at night at well. See #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
I’m learning quite a bit from Dave Asprey’s new book as well. Lots of things that help us offset the effects of EMF exposure:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0062652419/
Jeromy
Barb Payne
I don’t use flux, but I keep my desktop screen set to be not bright and on its “warm” tone setting. If I’m doing graphic design work where maybe it matters to try to see a more true color on-screen, I change the settings only for those moments.
Yes, I got bluelight-blocking glasses a while ago and have been forgetting to wear them. I was pleasantly surprised to find a company locally here in Toronto, Canada that seems to be in existence solely to provide such glasses. The company is named Somnitude. The quality seems superb. And the company is a pleasure to deal with—goes beyond one’s expectations. https://blueblockglasses.com/collections/all. I ordered the “fitover” style because I wear reading glasses. I’m very happy with the fit. I notice that one of their four models is even a kids/youth size.
I don’t know whether or not the following is correct, but I feel it makes a similar effect as the bluelight-blocking eyewear—at least for me. If I turn on the salt lamp in my home office space after dark, it casts light throughout the room that is a hue similar to when wearing the bluelight-blocking eyewear. Yes, I realize a salt lamps might be making me feel good in other ways, but I do think the contra-blue hue of the light might be another salt lamp benefit.
Thanks very much for the tip on the new book. My mitochondria and I will check it out tomorrow. I see that my local bricks-and-mortar bookstore claims to have 3 copies.
In appreciation,
Barb
Belinda
Hi Barb,
Looks like you have a great understanding of how to set up a good wired system. I live in Toronto and unfortunately Bell as of May 31/23 is stopping all copper wire and going with fiber only. I presently have a wired phone and desktop computer which work well. I am confused as to what to do once they stop the copper. Wondering who your supplier is. Right now I have my wireless completely shut off but not sure I will be able to do that on the new modem with fiber. Any suggestions for good set up in Toronto, Canada would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Also, thank you Jeromy for your wonderful info-greatly appreciated!
Salem Asiri
hi everyone
https://youtu.be/hj6M0Zj_JZE
why don’t we do this to eleminate exposure?
For your information: I do not advertise
TB
Thanks so much Jeromy, great article! 2 questions please:
1) Can I just use one grounding device between the original ethernet cable exiting the modem and going into the router? Would one “grounder” here cut the dirty electricity on the other ethernet cables exiting the router?
2) The homemade device in the video looks much more solid than the one from Less EMF — would you agree?
Thanks and all the best, Terry
Jeromy
I agree that the Ethernet ground adapter pictured above is the best route to go. I have not tried the LessEMF one yet as it’s a brand new product.
You will place the Ethernet ground adapter between your router/Ethernet switch and your laptop. This is why you need two Ethernet cables for this segment as the ground adapter will split them.
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks for the info here. One more question about connecting the ground adapter.
Does the ground adapter need to be 1/2 way between the router/Ethernet switch and the computer, or can we have a 3 foot shielded cable coming off the switch, then the ground, then a 25 or 50 foot cable to a distant computer?
Thanks so much for all the help!
Stephanie
Jeromy
Hi Stephanie,
You should be just fine with that setup.
One thing you want to consider is using the shortest Ethernet cables possible for your computer setup. The technical reason is that cables are very effective radiators of common mode EMI (they become excellent antennas). And, the longer the cable, the more easily it radiates the higher frequency EMI.
You should be fine with a 50 foot cable (I use one in my setup). But, use the 25′ cable if it will reach. When people move to 100 foot and longer, there could be an issue.
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
I called to order the grounding kit, and was told by Shawn that I do not need to ground my 2 desktops, only laptops need to be grounded this way. (?)
We have 2 desktops, so not needing the grounding kit saved me $50 + s/h. He did say I needed to buy the good shielded cables, which I will. -Just double checking-
Stephanie
Jeromy
Stephanie,
It is different with desktops because they are always plugged-in and grounded. You are also generally not right next to a desktop, like you are with a laptop.
The above setup with the Ethernet adapter is meant to prevent the lower-frequency EMI created by your modem/router from travelling to your computer and affecting you. The only way to know if this is happening is to measure (as you seen in the pictures in the article).
Do you have an electric field meter like the ones I suggest above?
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
Jeromy,
I do not have an electric field meter. I will need to purchase one and will soon.
My computer is bothering me now and hadn’t for the past few years, but from reading your article, I realize my new modem and cable internet may be the reason.
Question- I need a modem/router for cable internet and phone and 3 ports, but can only find these with WiFi included. Can I open up the modem and disconnect the WiFi chip like I did on my desktop and laptops? Have you done this?
Thanks!
Stephanie
Jeromy
Hi Stephanie,
It is very common that new equipment is what is causing new/additional symptoms.
My suggestion is to go with the exact setup I have above. This will give you cable and 3-4 ethernet ports, all with low-EMI.
For phone, I would get a separate real landline connection (not through our modem and ISP). This will also be a healthier setup from an EMI perspective. It should cost you about $20/month.
As for opening up a router/modem and taking out the WiFi antenna, I suppose it could be done but would void an warranties, could cause damage to the device (fire risk?) and may not work in the end. Disabling the WiFi is also difficult as some ISPs turn it back on automatically every month through system updates (Comcast Xfinity for instance).
In general, you want your own equipment that doesn’t have any of the microwave components to begin with.
The more simple and low-tech, the better from a health perspective.
Jeromy
Sandy Matuschak
This article mentioned Verizon & AT&T. What if your provider is one of those?
Jeromy
Sandy,
I would talk with the those providers to see if there are any modems you can purchase on your own that will work with their system. If so, get the lowest speed modem.
If you you must use their modem (as is usual with AT&T), then I would disable the Wi-Fi, use the low-speed Ethernet switch mentioned above and use the Ethernet ground adapter. This should reduce the EMI coming from the AT&T modem/router.
David Cipriani
Hi Jeromy,
I have Verizon and I purchased this Faraday cage device:
https://smartmeterguard.com/products/router-guard?afmc=34
I plan to use this as well as your setup to wire my son’s computer.
Does this sound reasonable?
Jeromy
Hi David,
That will help, but the most ideal thing is to use a modem/router that does not have WiFi engaged. Then you don’t need the Router Guard (which isn’t reducing the WiFi that much ultimately if you are sitting nearthe router).
Read this article: https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
My best,
Jeromy
Nate
Hi Jeromy!
Thanks so much for providing this article!
Unfortunately I read this too late. I have a Netgear cm500v that I ordered off ebay (not here yet). Unfortunately my family has Xfinity voice and internet and require a modem with a phone Jack. Is this modem okay?
Would any of this matter if I live in Colorado and have to have a smart meter? Doesn’t that cause EMI throughout the house? Thanks so much!!
Jeromy
Hi Nate,
That modem will work. This one also has a phone jack and no WiFi and works with Comcast:
Arris SBV2402 Modem w/ Comcast: https://amzn.to/3jGBRhs
The EMI from a smart meter is typically very negligible. It’s the RF pulses from the smart meters that get on the home wiring that is the problem. You should be able to have them install a non-transmitting digital meter as an opt-out option.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
GS
Great article. I would just add that many houses, especially many older houses, have wiring issues, which results in strong electric fields emanating from the wiring into the center of the room. Wiring issues (particularly poorly grounded outlets) can also cause an increase EMI on Ethernet cables.
It’s a good idea to purchase an inexpensive wall outlet tester and test each outlet in the house. If you purchase an EMF meter like one of the ones Jeromy shows, you can also test the electric fields in the room. Very few electricians understand how to repair wiring problems to fix the problem of strong EMF fields, though they are out there.
If you have high EMF fields from faulty wiring, you can use a workaround and shield the walls in sensitive areas (e.g., bedrooms) by placing metal screen door wiring against the wall and grounding it with a grounding cable that plugs into a wall outlet. It’s unsightly but effective. The problem of faulty wiring is so common that it’s a good idea to test properties before you purchase or sign a lease.
Jeromy
Indeed, one of the most important things we can do is make sure our home is low-EMF. I mention the basics of this here and usually recommend that a professional comes to your home:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-create-a-healthy-home/
For shielding the electric fields from your home wiring, look at the Ex-Static fabric seen in #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Thanks for your comment GS.
Victoria
Hello Jeromy, thank you for sharing your knowledge on how to live a healthier life. I hope that you can help me with this question. Apparently my modem needed an upgrade so Spectrum sent new equipment. However, it’s 2 pieces and I’m used to only one modem. I’m struggling with this new equipment I think one is a router and the other one is a modem. Radiation comes out of both of these correct? I don’t know exactly what to look at could you please help? could you please tell me where to look to know for future reference when a router or modem is unhealthy. Thanks so much!
Basic Modem Info E31T2V1
Green Amber
Amber
On Green – An Ethernet Device is Connected at 100 Mbps On Amber – An Ethernet Device is Connected at 2500 Mbps (2.5G)
Off – An Ethernet Device is Connected at 100 Mbps
On Amber – Data is Being Passed Between the EU2251 and the Connected Device
Off – No link is established
00:71:CC:8E:54:C7 GA-EU2251-P20-01.03.00-BAN.000
DOCSIS 3.1/3.0/2.0/1.1/1.0 certified Ethernet 100/1000/2500 Mbps PacketCable 1.5 and 2.0
Example of Cable RF MAC Address Firmware Version Example
Compatibility
Product Specifications Interfaces & Standards
Cable: F-Connector, female
Models: E31N2V1, E31T2V1, E31U2V1
LAN: One 10/100/1000 Mbps RJ-45 port
Models: EN2251, ET2251, EU2251, ES2251
LAN: One 10/100/2.5 Gbps RJ-45 port
Telephony: 2 RJ-11 ports
PacketCable 1.5 (NCS) or 2.0 (IMS/SIP) ccompatible DOCSIS 3.1 certified
Downstream*
Frequency Range: 258MHz-1218MHz
Capture Bandwidth: 1.218GHz
Modulation: 64 or 256 QAM and OFDM: up to 4096 QAM
Maximum DOCSIS 3.1 Data Rate: 2 x 192MHz OFDM channels provide capacity up to 5Gbps Maximum DOCSIS 3.0 Data Rate: 32 downstream channels provide speeds up to 1372Mbps Symbol Rate: 5361 Ksps
RF (cable) Input Power:
-15 to +15dBmV (64/256 QAM)
-6 to +15dBmV (4096 QAM)
Input Impedance: 75
Upstream* ·
Frequency Range: 5MHz ~ 42MHz/85MHz switchable
Modulation: QPSK or 8/16/32/64/128 QAM and OFDMA: up to 4096 QAM
Maximum DOCSIS 3.1 Data Rate: 2 x 96MHz OFDMA channels provide capacity up to 2Gbps Maximum DOCSIS 3.0 Data Rate: 8 upstream channels provide speeds up to 246Mbps Symbol Rate: 160, 320, 640, 1280, 2560, 5120 Ksps
RF (cable) Output Power:
A-TDMA/S-CDMA (one channel): +65dBmV
OFDMA: +65dBmV
Jeromy
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for writing. Your question is a common issue.
In short, you want to get your own modem and router that is wired or has an easy On/Off button for WiFi.
I lay out how to do this in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
You also want to have a good, basic RF meter to confirm all wireless is off. I like this one:
https://safelivingtechnologies.com/products/safe-and-sound-classic-ll.html?aff=3
Feel free to reach out for an email or Zoom consult if you have any questions on this. This is how I work:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Belinda
Hi Jeromy,
I see that you do Zoom consults. I am in Canada so have different providers nd I am guessing different modems. The provider I am with is switching from copper to fiber which means a whole new setup. I find that I have no idea where to start to ensure I get the best set up possible for my phone and desktop.
At the moment with copper I am able to have a wired phone and easy wired desktop set up where the Wi-Fi can be off completely but have no idea what to do in regards to the fiber/new modem, ect that will be replacing it.
Do you do consultation in regards to set up with Canadian providers/equipment?
Many thanks,
Belinda
JD
Thanks for this Jeromy.
You recommended a Netgear C3700 with an off/off switch for wireless capacity, which I have been using for ethernet at home (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-DOCSIS-Cable-Router-C3700-100NAS/dp/B00IF0JAYE)
Do you now suggest replacing it?
Thanks,
John
Jeromy
Hi John,
Yes, I would recommend replacing it now with this new information. I was not aware of how much EMI the NetGear routers create until testing them the past few months.
Live and learn. I am sorry for the inconvenience.
The good news is that the best replacement is the Ethernet switch mentioned above, which is only $10.
Jeromy
Natasha
Thank you so much for this information. We do not have Wi-Fi in our home.
Is the Ethernet ground adapter necessary then for us, or is the USB ground to cord effective?
https://www.lessemf.com/computer.html#295-USB?
Jeromy
Natasha,
The USB to Ground chord will help to ground some of the electric fields being generated by your computer.
However, the issue being raised with this article is the EMI coming from your router/modem. The only way to truly know is to test with on the Gigahertz Solutions electric field meters as seen above.
I would have one of these as they will help you understand what is really going on in your environment.
Jeromy
William Croft
Great innovations Jeromy, I’ll be sharing this with electro-sensitive friends.
Jeromy
Thanks William. My take is that we are all at various stages of electrical sensitivity. All humans are electrically sensitive – it’s just that most don’t feel it yet or have not had big exposures (or don’t realize what is causing their headaches or insomnia).
My hope is that very healthy people will eventually take this info to heart (similar to eating organic, non-GMO food). Preventative measures will keep us healthy as this technology expands in our society.
Skyler
Hi Jeromy!
I’m using Ethernet only (w/o PoE), with a “Zoom” cable modem and a Netgear N750 Gigabit Router w/ wireless switched OFF. To minimize having to string so much ethernet cable along the floors throughout the house, I’ve been using a MoCA Network Adapter to take advantage of easy connectivity via the Coax outlets already installed in our house.
What, if any, changes would you suggest for this configuration?
Thanks,
Skyler
Jeromy
Skyler,
Great question.
My main concern would be the Netgear Gigabit router. This is likely transmitting some of the low-frequency EMI from the switched-mode power supply, plus the higher frequency EMI from the high speed “gigabit” internet.
Can you replace the Netgear router with the basic Ethernet switch mentioned above in point #2? The would likely reduce a lot of the EMI.
Have you measured the electric fields at your computers in each room? This is the ultimate test.
Keep us posted,
Jeromy
Dan
Skyler,
Thanks for mentioning MoCa – I’m going to look into that as a replacement for the TrendNET and TP-LINK PowerLine adapters I’ve been using. One house I was setting up had horrible PowerLine performance on their wiring, and my furthest reach is only about 8Mbps, so I’m very interested in testing this out on my coax. I’m curious what sort of bandwidth you’ve achieved.
Jeromy – if I’m using a switch and one ethernet cable plugged into it is grounded, does that ground all of them? I’m not sure if all cables share a ground, but my guess would be yes. Also, some (but not many) switches have a ground clip on them, which I think could be used for the same purpose.
All I have to test for this is TriField and AM radio; not finding much yet.
Dan
Jeromy
Dan,
First, the TriField meter is basically only good for low-frequency magnetic fields. It’s useless for electric fields and RF.
The AM radio (if a Radio Shack model 12-467) will pick up EMI at 500 KHz (when tuned all the way to the left on AM) and 2 MHz (when tuned all the way to the right on the dial).
I highly recommend a decent electric field meter as mentioned above from Gigahertz Solutions. That way you can test if grounding the Ethernet switch or just one Ethernet cable will actually reduce the low-frequency EMI on your Ethernet systems. Without testing, we are going blind.
Finally, do your best to have a low bandwidth modem/router so that you have less of the high frequency EMI. Read this as to why:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-gigabit-routers-create-emi/
Paul Vonharnish
Wouldn’t it be great if electronics engineers, racketeers, and profiteers would get a clue, and quit designing junk equipment that kills people and other living things?
The IEEE has more than enough information regarding EMF health exposure issues, yet they and Underwriters Laboratory’s (UL) insist on providing death traps to the public at large… These persons and the companies who employ them; seriously need to be sued into the ground…
As a former analog electronics engineer, I’ve always been quite aware of issues encountered with pulsed digital signal processing. All bench equipment needed to incorporate specialized bench supplies and shielded test probes in order to perform realistic analog measurement. IEEE engineers know this information before they even graduate from tech schools. How can they “believe” biological cells aren’t affected? Biological cells are triggered at 25 nano-volts per square centimeter or less…
Jeromy, It’s great that you’ve dedicated yourself to informing the public. Most harmful EMF chaff entering people’s environments is bleeding in through building wiring and cable grounds. Even water pipes from municipal utilities can carry EMF chaff into homes and businesses.
Some links and articles of interest:
Video film and extended discussion: Mike Holt discusses Stray Voltage – YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAs_FmdxXhQ&feature=watch-vrec
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov:80/pmc/articles/PMC3184892/
http://www.cellphonetaskforce.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/environmental-impacts-of-stray-voltage.pdf
Jeromy
Thanks for your insightful comment, Paul. Much appreciated.
Indeed, EMI and low-frequency magnetic fields are likely the biggest reason for bad health outcomes and electrical sensitivity for many affected people.
Add in the exponential rise in microwave exposures the past ten years, and it’s a perfect storm for health problems and chronic disease.
Society will eventually wake up to this. It’s already happening.
Lumiel
Jeromy,
Thank you for helping us with your research! The office I will be working in beginning next month is set up with Wi-Fi from AT&T.
For years I have protected myself from EMR by wearing a catalyst bead on my person at all times, placing similar but strong devices like the bead (from EMFblues) on my laptop, in my car, and in my purse and luggage while traveling. I also set up a “Clearfield Plate” that broadcasts harmonizing energy through a large area if I’m to spend much time in a Wi-Fi area. These protective devices have been muscle-tested to show that they harmonize these electromagnetic waves so that the human body in this range isn’t harmed. Do you have any experience with this sort of device?
I’d like to feel that I don’t need to find a way to ask for a major internet setup change where I am working, if possible, and your input on this question is valuable to me.
Jeromy
Hi Lumiel,
You bring up a common question: Rather than reduce and eliminate EMF exposures, can we just wear something or place something around us that will magically protect us. After all, there are now hundreds of such devices on the market.
I wish it were that easy, but it’s not. Individually and as a society, we are going to have to figure out how to reduce EMF exposures, rather than use wishful thinking or denial.
For your office setting, I encourage you to ask to sit as far away from the routers as possible. You will also want to have you computer wired, etc.
Some truly wise and forward-thinking businesses are starting to pay attention to this issue. Having healthy, productive employees is in their best financial interest. Get your employer to do the same thing.
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy,
If I am moving to a new place and I need to get my own internet connection set up, what company would you recommend me to get my internet through?
If I am going for the TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D) mentioned above, I understand it means that I do not have any Wi-Fi options at all?
Can I plug a few laptops in it, which means I would need more shielded Cat-7 cables? Do I need more short cables, as well?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
1.) I would go with a regional carrier that allows you to purchase your own equipment. This saves you the $10 monthly rental fee (you can get your own equipment for about $100) and it gives you more flexibility. I generally prefer Comcast over AT&T because you have to use AT&T’s modem/router. With Comcast, you just have them bring the internet to the home and you can choose all your equipment (like the set up I have outlined above). Read this article as well:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
2.) Yes, you won’t have any Wi-Fi ability if you only use the Ethernet switch.
3.) With the Ethernet switch, you can run Ethernet cables to four computers. You can get eight or ten port switches as well if you have more computers than that.
You will only need one cable to go from your modem to the Ethernet switch.
Hope that helps!
Jeromy
Renee
Jeromy,
I have been on the phone with Time Warner/Spectrum and Arris for several hours today trying to get the Arris SB6141 and the TP TL-SF1005D connected to 3 laptops. They were only able to connect one device at a time. Using the Arris SB6121 they couldn’t connect any devices.
When I go back to using the Time Warner modem, the TP switch works fine with all of the computers.
Spectrum said we may have a problem connecting all devices at the same time without a router in addition to the modem & switch, while Arris said it should work.
In addition, Spectrum will not come to my house because we’re not using their modem.
What am I missing? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Renee
Jeromy
Hi Renee,
It seems that the Arris modem is not as compatible with Spectrum as they advertise.
Why not just use the Time Warner modem? As long as it is not WiFi enabled, that seems like your best route for now.
You should not need a router. The TP Link switch will do the splitting for you to separate computers. It appear that there is just a compatibility issue between Spectrum and Arris.
If you want to discuss and see if we can trouble shoot, you can book a session here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy,
I called TP-Link and they also told me that since the Arris modem does not have a router in it, the TP-Link switch will not work with more than one device at a time. They said I need to go from the modem to a router and then to the TP-Link switch.
I really want to try and replace the Spectrum supplied modem/router because it is very noisy when measuring it with an AM radio.
My next step will be to try a wired router byTRENDnet (TW100-S4W1CA) along with the Arris modem.
Best,
Renee
Jeromy
Thanks for letting me know Renee.
My setup with the Arris modem (in the article above) and the TP-Link splitter works just fine with multiple devices.
If adding in your own wired router is necessary with your system, at least there is a solution.
Jeromy
Renee
I am still on my quest to find out why the TP-Link switch won’t work with Spectrum and will work with Comcast.
The only thing I can come up with is that Spectrum says I need more than one IP address on my residential account to bypass having to use a router and use the switch instead for multiple devices. But, the only way to get more than one IP address is to set up a 2nd and 3rd residential account or a business account (very expensive).
It looks like Comcast used to allow more than one IP address for residential customers but no longer does. I wonder if you have more than one IP address, which allows you to use the TP-Link in the way describe.
Thanks,
Renee
Dominic Bere
Hi Jeromy,
I’ve earthed my router through its USB port. As far as I know, this works just as well as an Ethernet ground adapter.
What do you think?
Jeromy
Hi Dominic,
I have not tried this yet, but if you are grounding the router into the same outlet where the router SMPS is plugged in, some of that low frequency EMI can still be transmitted from the router along your Ethernet cables to your computer.
Do you have an electric field meter to test?
The other issue the type of router you are using. If it is one of the “gigabit” routers I mention above, grounding the router will not reduce the high frequency EMI being created by the router and transmitted along your ethernet cables.
To learn more about this phenomena, read this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-gigabit-routers-create-emi/
This is why the simple setup I have outline above seems to work best. I’ve tried quite a few versions and this works really well for me.
Jeromy
Dominic Bere
Sorry I’ve taken so long to get back. I don’t have an electric field meter to test I’m afraid, only the level of my tinnitus, which is an accurate guide.
I wanted to have all the electricity off in my house as much as possible a while back, and so I wanted to find a way to run my computer and router without mains electricity. I noticed my router ran on one amp and 12 volts, and I realized I could probably run it on torch batteries. I had a couple of battery holders lying around that I had bought from China in case they came in handy one day, and one of them took 8 AA batteries and therefore would deliver the required 12 volts if I could find a way of connecting the free wires to the router. The power input socket on the router would not take a normal size power jack, it was much smaller than that. I had bought myself a Suaoki Solar Panel Bag a little while before, and it came with a couple of standard power cables and an array of adaptors for laptops and other devices. Among these I found an adaptor which fitted the router. So all I needed now was to connect a standard power jack to the wires from the battery holder and I’d be away. I found you can get power jacks with screw-connectors off eBay – also from China. When these came through the post I screwed the jack to the battery holder – no soldering necessary thank goodness – put 8 rechargeable AA batteries in the holder, plugged the power jack into the adapter, and plugged it into the router. To my delight it worked – but to my dismay my tinnitus stepped up many-fold!
I struggled on for a long time, unable to believe my tinnitus was really caused by that. I convinced myself for a while that it had always been as loud and I just hadn’t noticed it. But after a while I had to admit – it was the new setup. I had never known tinnitus right in the middle of my head like this before. I racked my brains to find out what could be wrong with my setup – and then I remembered, devices need to be earthed. At first I thought the router must formerly have been earthing itself through the earth terminal on the plug when I was using the mains – but inspection showed that the earth terminal was plastic. In spite of this, I believe that it must have been at least partially earthing through the other terminals, and this partial earthing had also been earthing the computer. When battery-powered, neither router nor computer had any connection with the earth whatever. I experimented with earthing the computer and/or the router, and in the end struck on the USB port on the router as the ideal earth for both.
The Ethernet cable has always been far and away the worst offender for me, and therefore to earth the router seemed the obvious choice. I believe I must have found it reduced my tinnitus by at least as much as any other other strategy, though I can’t remember the details.
I did not carry on this setup for very long, however, because I did not like the way the batteries would suddenly be too low to run the router, and there was no way of anticipating exactly when this would happen. They lasted about an eight hour day but it was extra work recharging them and the battery casings were being damaged every time I took them out of the battery holder and replaced them. Everything that is made to hold AA batteries is just a little too small for rechargeable ones. The difference in size between rechargeable and non-rechargeable is very small, but it is enough to make you feel awful about damaging the former each time you squeeze them in and out.
At that time I was also considering buying a 50,000 mAh MaxOak Power Bank for my computer, so that I could run it throughout the day disconnected from the mains. When I noticed it had a 12 V outlet as well as a 20 volt one, I realized I would be able to run the router from it at the same time as the computer. It didn’t quite work out like that because the Power Bank would switch off automatically if ever the only current being drawn from it was the tiny trickle going to the router. You would have thought plugging it simultaneously into the computer and into the router would have caused enough current be drawn to keep it awake, but when idle the computer uses virtually nothing whatever – the latest Intel processors use 50% less electricity – and the situation is complicated by the fact that only a Dell Power Bank will actually charge the Dell XPS13 touchscreen that I have got – others will only run the computer but not charge it, meaning as soon as it idles the current it pulls ceases abruptly. I don’t know if this applies to other Dell computers or only my model, but I do know it is something to do with the touchscreen, because the MaxOak will charge a non-touchscreen XPS13.
I think I’ve found a way around this problem however. Since I switch my electricity off at night – and once or twice during the day – it is problematic making yogurt which needs a long unbroken period of gentle warmth. But I spotted an USB powered mug warmer a few weeks ago on eBay and suddenly realized that I could solve two problems in one stroke.
It takes weeks for anything to come from China but it is due any day now and then I will find out whether it draws just the right amount of current to keep the MaxOak Power Bank awake – enabling it to run the router – while at the same time fermenting a jar of yogurt. It also must not draw too much electricity, or I will have to keep turning the mains on just to recharge the Power Bank.
So that’s my story. Oh, and it’s not a gigabit router I’ve got, just an ordinary old-style one. I don’t want anything particularly fast. I hope this is interesting to you. Actually it is all in preparation for living somewhere off-grid far away in another land. Everything in my life is geared towards that end-goal. Currently I am studying internet security, and it is very hard work for me.
Phil
Hi Jeromy (and any other reader).
When I turn on my computer I get a massive list of available wireless connections on the National Broadband system from surrounding homes.
Does this mean there is no value for me to change to cabled connection and turn off my own WiFi?
I installed two Geocleanse in my power supply, but I now wonder if even this is of any value to me.
Phil, Australia
Jeromy
Hi Phil,
Great question.
Your computer and phone can sometimes detect WiFi power densities as low as -100 dB. This is 0.00001 microwatts per meter squared (uW/m^2).
Most RF meters are only sensitive to 0.1 uW/m^2 and that is generally the limits of biological studies on RF exposure.
So, my point is that just because your computer or phone is picking up a signal from a neighbor 500 feet away, it doesn’t necessarily mean that signal is having a profound effect on your health.
Generally, what matters most are the routers within about 50 feet of you. These will be powerful enough to be of concern.
The biggest issue, however, is the WiFi antenna in your own computer. This is by far your biggest exposure source if you use WiFi. Many people forget this, thinking they only need to think about their router down in the basement.
Definitely setup your own Ethernet based system for computer use in your own home. I outline how to easily do this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
As for the products you mention, in my opinion they are a waste of money. They are simply playing on people’s fear and misunderstanding of this subject. Reduction and elimination of EMF is the only thing that works. The good thing is you can do this in your own home.
Finally, I suggest that everyone has at least a basic RF meter. This will help you know if a neighbor’s WiFi is too close or if you accidentally have an antenna on in your home.
Get this meter: http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88T-esh.html
Or one of these, which are slightly better:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/AcoustimeterAM-10.aspx
Use the code at the bottom of the article above for a discount.
Hope that clarifies things for you.
Jeromy
Barb Payne
Hi Jeromy,
At the bottom of your reply to Phil, you mentioned there’s a discount code at the bottom of the How To Install Wired Internet article, but I didn’t find it. Please give me a hint where I’m not seeing the code 🙂
Thanks,
Barb
Jeromy
Sorry – I meant the bottom of this article (just scroll up).
It’s EMFA-10 for a 10% discount at SLT.co.
Jeromy
Gloria Frank
Hi Jeromy,
I have now read your wonderful article, and I am now educated, and I understand what EMI is, but I am not sure if this is an easy install, or difficult for someone who is not tech savvy. Please advise.
Thank you for all your dedication to help the growing number of people globally that are struggling just to live in a safe and healthy environment. Our human rights have been taken from us, and no one should have to face the magnitude of all the man-made wireless technology to survive on Mother Earth. It saddens me greatly.
With much appreciation, Gloria Frank
PS: I will use your amazing website to teach others about EMI!
Jeromy
Hi Gloria,
The good thing for non-technical people is that, as long as you don’t have AT&T or Verizon for your internet service, you can follow the exact instructions in the 4 points above, use the products I link to, and have a very low-EMI internet setup.
The total cost is $150.
Hopefully this will easily help anyone who reads this to have a healthy internet setup.
Jeromy
Maria
I have an iPad and cell phone. Can I lower the EMF from these devices. If so, how?
Jeromy
Hi Maria,
Indeed, read these articles for your iPad and cell phone:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Thanks for asking.
Jeromy
juan
Hi Jeromy,
I deeply appreciate all your work, thanks for making us conscious and looking after our health and life quality. I am really grateful.
I truly believe it’s a huge issue that is becoming bigger by the day. And, like any other big issues it depends on each of us.
Have you heard or orgonite for EMF? If you have could you let me know your opinion.
Thanks again,
Juan
Jeromy
Thanks Juan.
Indeed, this is just the tip of the iceberg. However, there are many things we can do – especially in our own home.
As for ogronite and other “protection” devices/products, I am not a big fan. You want to first reduce and eliminate your exposures as much as possible. Then, you can use something like orgonite or shungite. If you use these without doing the reduction/elimination first, you are likely doing harm to your health.
I write more about this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
My best,
Jeromy
Barry Wallace
Since the EMF emitted by 240v wiring eclipses anything put out by a router, should I be looking into low EMF electrical wiring options as well?
Jeromy
Barry,
Thanks for asking.
In the picture above showing 1.8 V/m electric field reading, I am within a few feet of unshielded Romex wiring. So, the wrong router/modem that creates a lot of EMI can indeed eclipse that coming from your electrical wiring.
If someone is building a new home or doing a remodel, yes, EMT conduit with compression fittings is ideal. MC Cable will also work. For homes with standard Romex already installed, turning off breakers with a 3-phase contactor is the best way to go. This will greatly reduce the electric fields in that area of your home because even the neutral is cutoff from the grid.
Jeromy
MissCarole
I am from Quebec, Canada, I use the Bing translation:
Hello Jeromy,
I have a wired Thomson without wifi feature modem provided by my internet provider (videotron) and I still see too many EMF to stretch my time in front of my living room computer (Tower). I’m electrically sensitive. I would try the method you describe on your article with the modem without wifi, Arris/Motorola standard.
Is there something special to do in wired connections for this modem? Just changed my Thomson by the standard Motorola/Arris modem? Or do I need to do some modification in the wired connections with this modem?
I think the steps 2-3 and 4 described in your article seems to be for people who have a modem/router with built-in wifi. Am I wrong? If so, could you explain the method to connect wired to reduce EMF of my computer with your modem Arris/Motorola…?
Thank you!
Carole
Jeromy
Hi Carole,
All of these steps are for a wired modem/router. If you follow them as outlined above, they should great reduce the EMI you are exposed to.
If you would like to have an EMF consultant in Quebec come to your home, that could be beneficial. Just let me know and I’ll put you in touch with one near you.
Jeromy
Carole
Yes I would be interested in talking with a EMF consultant in Quebec.
All EMC measures have done to my house in the past and the protections were satisfactory.
The problem with me is I changed my internet connection with modem wireless for a modem without WiFi feature.
This modem is just wired, but my symptoms are a problem even with a wired internet facility and a TV cable.
I’d like a consultant to try a better facility for mitigating the problem of density extremely low frequency with my living room computer and my TV cable.
Internet and TV are the same distributor co.
Thank you
Carole
Dana
Hi, Jeromy!
It seems that the only Internet supplier in my area is SPECTRUM (formerly Bright House, so I have no choice for Comcast), and they provide their own modem. Can I do anything about that?…Can I still get my own modem and router if I subscribe to their service?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I looked up Spectrum/Charter and they are basically a network of regional ISPs with similar systems to Comcast. The modem I reference above should work well with them (provided the service is a cable service).
https://www.spectrum.com/spectrum-resi-home
You can double-check with them before you sign-up to make sure that modem is compatible.
The only services that I am aware of where that modem does NOT work are AT&T and Verizon.
Good luck!
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy, thank you for your answer!
May I ask if there is anything between the low-bandwidth Ethernet switch and the Netgear Router with the least EMI created in case I would like to have occasional access to wireless Internet?
Also how many long and short Ethernet cables, as well as Ethernet ground adapter do I need if I want to hook up to the Internet with two laptops, a desk top, and a TV (for streaming and youtube)?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I would normally just use the TP Link ethernet switch and then only add in the Netgear Router when you do need WiFi. That way you are usually having the lowest EMI system possible.
You would just need to switch the ethernet cables from your TP Link switch to the Netgear router. Inconvenient, but easy to do.
For each device (laptop, desktop, TV), you would need 2 ethernet cables and one Ethernet ground adapter. So, for four devices, you need 8 cables and 4 ground adapters per the setup above.
Good luck!
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for this article. I am from the Blue Mountains just outside of Sydney in Australia and the router provided by my internet provider is a Netgear one. And there is a lot of DE associated with it – tested using an AM radio. I don’t use the Wi-Fi at all as I am EHS and need to avoid that kind of exposure as much as I can.
My question is – do I need to get a new modem (such as the Arris/Motorola modem you refer to above) or can I just use the Ethernet switch and my old router. I’m a bit confused!!
As you can probably tell – I’m easily confused. If I have to get a new modem I will but compatibility issues worry me, and getting good advice out of telcos here is difficult.
Thank you again for this article,
Kate
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
Is your NetGear router also your modem? If so, then I would look into having a modem only device by another manufacturer (your internet service provider may be able to rent this to you). Your ISP should have a list of compatible modems that you can purchase (the Arriss modem above may be on that list).
If you already have a modem and the Netgear router, then I would simply get rid of the Netgear device and use the TP-Link Ethernet switch mentioned in point #2 above. You will be able to get one in Australia for just over $10.
Hope this helps. Let me know what you find in Australia for this setup.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Hi Jeromy,
I don’t have a separate modem – only the Netgear router which I’ve disabled for Wi-Fi use. I will check with my ISP for a list of compatible modems and get one. Thank you.
And then the other bits and pieces you recommend above.
Thank you for the advice – much appreciated.
Kate (Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Kate,
That’s interesting. Every home should have a modem. It’s the gateway between your home and the ISP.
The router is optional.
Perhaps double check that you don’t have a modem that was installed by your ISP somewhere on your property. If you do, then you would just need the TP-Link Ethernet switch.
Otherwise, most likely your Netgear is a modem/router combo.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Yes – I think you’re correct – it’s a modem/router combo and a Netgear one. So presumably still best to get a new router?
Kate
Jeromy
Kate – I would based on my tests of Netgear products. They seem to be very high emitters of EMI.
Jeromy
Deb
I only use a modem with ethernet straight to the laptop. If i don’t use more than one computer at a time, is the switch needed? I’m not technically inclined in this way to know. If it needs to be there for another reason, that’s fine. I’d just like to know. I don’t get what the switch does, except to add ports which I don’t need.
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
The TP-Link ethernet switch could reduce the EMI by slowing down the data transfer. For that reason, it won’t hurt and could certainly help.
You would just need to purchase the $10 switch, plus a short Ethernet cable to go from your modem to the switch.
Jeromy
Deb
So, skip the ground adapter completely and just use the switch? If the adapter helps lower EMI, why just the switch? Sorry if this is obvious to everyone else.
Jeromy
I would also use the Ethernet adapter. Sorry for the confusion.
Try to setup your system as close to what I have outlined above as possible. I have tested this and know it works.
Jeromy
Deb
The pictures shows the adapter going straight into the wall outlet. Is this required? Or, can I use a power strip?
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
As long as the power strip is properly grounded, it should be okay. You can test this with a ground tester (costs about $15 at LessEMF).
However, I tend to not use power strips because they can create high electric fields. This one is designed to reduce these fields:
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Shielded-Surge-Suppressor-Power-Strip–Custom-Modified_p_121.html?a_aid=esh
Jeromy
HD
Hi Jeromy,
I too am an electrical engineer, trying to understand the effects of EMF but for the preventative and precautionary case for my family.
I’m a bit puzzled by your explanation of gigabit ethernet however – I thought that the 4 pairs were still operating at the 125 MHz, but just in a different encoding mechanism.
From this website:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/how-gigabit-ethernet-works/#BMHU1PrKTTMXKIeO.99
“So it is a mistake to say that Gigabit Ethernet runs at 1.000 MHz. It doesn’t. It runs at 125 MHz just like Fast Ethernet (100BaseT), but it achieves a 1000 Mbps because it transmits two bits per time and uses the four pairs of the cable.”
Also, I’m using TP-Link Gigabit switches, and running shielded Cat5e (ubiquity) around our house. The router itself is a gigabit Netgear one, which is using the main routing and DHCP, but WiFi is only turned on on request and not very often nor for long periods. My questions is, does the conducted emissions pass from the Netgear router to the switches, and end up as radiated emissions?
Also, do you have recommendations for alternative SMPS units that are less prone to emit EMI?
Jeromy
HD,
Thanks for bringing this up. I wasn’t aware that is how they are getting 1 Gig speeds through some cables. I note that the article you link to is about 10 years old. I wonder if they are using the same method with newer cables/routers? For instance, I use these shielded Cat7 cables that can transmit up to 10 GBPS speeds:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCTFK9I/
I still think the issue here is the Gigabit router, which is going to create more higher frequency EMI than a slower router. Whatever EMI your router creates is going to conduct throughout your entire system and end up at your computer. This EMI can also radiate onto other nearby wires.
Putting a slower Ethernet switch between you and the Gigabit router likely won’t help. I tried this with my Netgear gigabit router and I could still feel the EMI within 20 minutes. With only the 10/100 mbps Ethernet switch and a slower modem, I have hardly any symptoms with this system at all.
Regarding SMPS alternatives, an EE colleague states that synchronous resonant designs are best, but you have to buy and test them to see if they are low emissions – especially at the frequencies you are concerned about or sensitized to. If you are handy, you could also build your own small toroidal linear supply for items like routers, switches or fiber optic converters. Send me an email and I’ll forward you information on this.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you for this very useful information. Regarding meters, my understanding has been that there are mainly 2 types of radiation: electro-magnetic (anything that plugs into an outlet, battery-powered things like clocks, as well as dirty electricity, ie improper wiring in the walls). The other type is radio emitted by any wireless transmission like Wi-Fi routers, phone towers, antennas, etc.
So do the Gigahertz meters you mention measure electro-magnetic frequencies? I know Cornet ED88T is one of the better meters for the average person for both electro-magnetic & radio frequencies but doesn’t measure dirty electricity. Do you find the Cornet meter comparable to the Gigahertz meters or are they different types of meters?
Thank you.
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I explain the four types of EMFs in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-create-a-healthy-home/
The Gigahertz Solutions meters mentioned above measure the lower frequency magnetic and electric fields from wiring, appliances and electronics. They also measure some of what is considered “dirty electricity” or EMI.
They do not measure the high frequency RF radiation from wireless technology. This meter is good at that:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
The Cornet ED88T is an “okay” meter and does well for the price. However, it is not sensitive enough for the low frequency EMF (magnetic and electric fields) and misses some of RF frequencies (in independent tests).
The simple truth is that you get what you pay for in EMF meters. If you are sensitive to EMFs and want an accurate picture, get the best meters you can afford or split the costs by sharing the meters with people in your community.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you Jeromy.
Anna
Just to clarify, if I get one of the Gigahertz meters you recommend, I do not need the Stetzer meter? And, if I find significant EMI readings, do you recommend the Stetzer filters?
Jeromy
Anna,
The Stetzer meter measures EMI in the range from 10 KHz to 100 KHz. Both Gigahertz meters above also have an upper range of 100 KHz.
The Stetzer meter measures the noise directly on the hot wire of your wiring (differential mode). The Gigahertz meters are measuring the noise actually being radiated from your wiring (both common and differential mode).
If you do get an EMI / dirty electricity meter that you plug in, I would get the Alpha Labs mentioned here because it has a much greater frequency range – up to 10 MHz:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-measure-dirty-electricity/
Finally, I rarely recommend the filters (they are actually capacitors). They are not doing exactly what they claim and can cause more problems than they fix in certain cases. This is why many people feel worse with them.
What does work is finding the actual source of the EMI in your home and fixing or getting rid of it. If it is coming from the grid outside your home, then other filtering techniques can be utilized near the main circuit box or you can find the source and have the power company eliminate it (it is to their advantage to do this if the source is power line arcing).
I can help walk you through that process if you ever need to do this.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you. Are you able to consult with people buying a new home? My sister is looking for a home in Florida and I’d like to help her, but I’m not sure how she can get someone to identify issues like towers, smart meters, dirty electricity etc. Do you do home consultations or recommend anyone in Florida?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Yes, my book is specifically on finding a low-EMF home and if you email me through my contact form, I’ll connect you and your sister to a consultant I trust in Florida.
For more on the book and consulting, read here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Thanks,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, if I buy your book now, will I need to purchase it again when you update the electronic version?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Yes, if you get the book now and then send me a note once the updated version is released, I’ll email you the new version.
My best,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, do you recommend anyone in NY who can come to our house and measure all the different types of radiation/electricity issues? Do you think a large cooling & heating system can cause issues for the person in bedroom next door?
Anna
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I emailed you with a referral in NY.
Also, yes, a heating/cooling system can create significant fields. Best to have it measured to see what is going on and see if any shielding is necessary.
My best,
Jeromy
HD
Hi there,
What about USB and HDMI devices? Both in particular have higher clocking rates compared to gigabit ethernet. USB3.0 is 5 Gbit/s and it only has one differential pair – so the clock is very high speed. However both HDMI and USB are shielded protocols and technically are terminated well to curb radiated emissions. Are you able to comment on this?
Jeromy
HD,
Have you measured the EMI created by these products with an older AM radio?
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-measure-dirty-electricity/
One concern I would have is that many of these USB 3.0/HDMI products have a copper wire within them (even if they say they are a fiber optic product). This metal will conduct and radiate any EMI emissions that are anywhere in your system.
This is why a pure fiber optic leg in your data system can be beneficial as it won’t allow any EMI to pass through (but the converter on your computer end will create EMI unless you have a clean power source).
Jeromy
HD
Couple of things … an AM radio doesn’t have the frequency response to detect the higher frequencies that these interfaces work at. Only a broad spectrum meter can do that, and no I haven’t yet invested in such a device.
Both USB and HDMI are also not optical interfaces – you might be thinking of Toslink devices which send out audio signalling. USB/HDMI interfaces are high speed serial interfaces that use differential pairs to send data bidirectionally.
Jeromy
HD,
I ran your question by an EE colleague and this was the response:
“Both USB 3.0 and HDMI are going to be similarly problematic. Analog VGA is preferred for lower emissions. In all cases, the cables will be radiating (shielded or no) the lower frequency (higher harmonics from power supply) EMI present on the computer ground. This you can pick up readily with the $15 “poor man’s near field sniffer”, the AM radio. What you do to reduce this will help with the higher frequencies, some.
Foil shields over any distance are pretty limited; the signal couples to the shield and the shield radiates as well as the wire. You just can’t have long cables with high data rates without putting them in some serious shielding, like EMT (with compression fittings) or IMC conduit. The only alternative is fiber, with the issue of emissions at the converters.”
HD
Much thanks for this Jeromy, and thanks to your colleague for the technical response. I see now that the higher frequency stuff is actually not what you are trying to measure, but the radiation via the external shielded of the common mode power supply noise that is more of a concern.
I note that many of the SMPS devices don’t even have an earth/ground pin, which means that many of the devices will not be “grounded” even if they are “shielded”. I also note that although my laptop SMPS has a ground pin, there is a 1M resistance to the Ground line from the -ve terminal. I wonder if much of the problems associated with cabling and radiation of 10-100 KHz frequency can be mitigated with a more solid ground – at the very least on the Ethernet network?
Jeromy
HD,
I can say from implementing the Ethernet ground adapter pictured above within my ethernet system, the lower frequency EMI (below 100 KHz) did indeed drop dramatically.
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
It does a good job with the SMPS EMI, but won’t do much for the higher frequencies.
Jeromy
Virginia Cottone
Hi Jeromy,
If you only have one computer is it still better to connect the modem to the switch/router as opposed to just connecting an ethernet cable to the ethernet grounding adapter and the other cable directly to the PC?
Thanks for all the great work you do!
Jeromy
Hi Virginia,
Thank you!
I use the TP-Link Ethernet switch above because it may slow down the data speeds even more than if you just use your modem. I also have several computers that are being served, so I need the switch.
I don’t think you will be greatly increasing your EMI if you go without the switch. As long as you use a low-EMI modem like the one above, along with the Ethernet ground adapter and shielded Cat7 cables, that should be a great setup.
Jeromy
Connie
Dear Jeromy,
Thank you so very much for keeping us informed in such an excellent manner & I appreciate all your hard work and dedication over the years. You certainly have a ton of wisdom (because of your own journey) and knowledge from all the amazing research!! You help so many, many people, I’m certain, with your compassion & empathy also. I’m speaking from my experience & perspective of you. I’m so glad I found you several years ago. I trust you, plus you cared enough to help guide me with my sister. You’re an amazing person, thank you!!
My health is not too good at the time and EMF is certainly one of the problems. I study your vital information on a regular basis and continue to learn more on why I feel as I do. I recently went to a nutritionist and she said I had a severe toxic situation and put me on a regime of drops for different areas of issues. She used the technology called Zyto and the readings were alarming. To mention just a few, said my cells were holding on to black mold, which affects the brain. I don’t really understand it. With your knowledge and expertise, what do you feel about this. I’m taking measurements to eliminate as much EMF as possible & opted out for smart meter. I asked my husband last night to please not bring his iPad up into our bedroom (bed), because my stress level is high & I have very loud ringing in my ears. I feel drained physically, trying to continue to get better. We live in the woods & have iPhones with Verizon as our carrier. We have no cables b/c our property is 18 acres, run off hotspot and cell tower; not sure of its location. I know this isn’t good. Can you give me any advice on what else to do? Thank you for all your time, patience & loyalty in this field. God Bless you. We need you!! Thank you so much for all your help!
Sincerely,
Connie
Jeromy
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing. I’m glad the site is of help to you!
Mold certainly makes EMF sensitivity worse. So, do what you can to decrease your mold exposure and to detox from this. I’ve used Grapefruit Seed Extract in the past for mold toxicity.
Also keep your wireless exposure to a minimum. Are you turning off that hotspot when not in use? Do you have a RF meter?
You will need one to understand what is going on in your home.
I also encourage you to read my book. It has the basics (and some advanced ideas) that will help you make your home much healthier:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, when will your book be available in print?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I’m working on an updated version and adding some material that is taking me longer than expected. I would say approximately 2 months.
People who need it now are getting the ebook/PDF and printing it (80 pages).
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
My best,
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Dear Jeromy,
Is there an equivalent of the modem you recommend for ADSL? Are you able to recommend anything?
Thank you,
Kate Corcoran
(Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
I have never tested an ADSL modem. Hopefully you have a couple options through your local ISP and you can test with your own meters (AM radio and electric field meter) to see which one works best.
It often takes trying a few options to find what works for us individually.
Let us know what you find.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Thanks Jeromy. I’ll get onto this.
I’ve got a body voltage meter to measure electric fields. I presume this is sufficient to get an idea with the electric fields are associated with modems?
Kate Corcoran (Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
The BV meter will pick up some of the EMI (from the SMPS of the plugged in modem/router), but it is only measuring E-fields in the frequency range up to about 400 Hz. The EMI frequencies I discuss in the article above are typically much higher (in the KHz and MHz ranges).
This is why I recommend the electric field meter above (ME3851A). A basic, older AM radio will also help you determine some of the higher frequencies on your system.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
That helps a lot, Jeromy, thank you.
I have an AM radio and there is clearly a lot of DE, but I would like to be able to measure electric fields in a more accurate way so I’ll get one of the meters you recommended.
Thank you so much for providing much needed guidance.
Kate Corcoran (Blue Mountains)
Dana
Hello, Jeromy!
Could you, please, tell me if the DOCSIS 3.0 router is a high EMI emitter or not?
This is what my carrier, Spectrum, is providing me with. Should I still buy the low-bandwidth Ethernet switch you were suggesting?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You would have to test it with the meters I show above. That is the only way to know.
If at all possible, I would go with the exact setup I have above. It’s been tested. It should also work with your ISP (Charter/Spectrum).
My best,
Jeromy
Dana
Dear Jeromy,
After I had done my homework and had purchased all the items needed for a low EMF connection, I had today someone from Spectrum over to install the Internet in my new condo and and to my disappointment the guy said that the Arris Surfboard SB6121 model I had purchased was incompatible with Spectrum (although I made sure to ask prior to his arriving about this issue and I thought I was all set…); I was now told that the only router with modem incorporated, which they are able to use is the ARRIS 1682 or 1672. He got me an Arris 1682, which he has hooked up since I had no choice (Spectrum is the only Internet provider in my area after all).
What do you suggest me to do in this situation? I still have the Arris Surfboard unopened in the box (which I will have to return to Amazon), along with the TP-link, and the Ethernet cables; can I still use any of these?
What would be my safest set-up under the current conditions, do you have any idea?
I would consider still using cables (the device has four outlets for cables), and I would turn it off at night; is there anything else I could use, like a shield or additional protection?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
The Arris 1682 is a wireless router/modem combo. It’s what Comcast Xfinity uses as well. You do not want this router/modem operating in your home. People have been complaining about these powerful routers, as you can read here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
I would contact Spectrum and demand a wired only modem or a list of modems that you can purchase yourself.
I assume you have an RF meter? This will help you see how much these devices are emitting. This one is good for the price:
http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88T-esh.html
Keep me posted.
Jeromy
Dana
Thank you, Jeromy.
I have called Spectrum and it seems that the modem I got is compatible but with a download speed up to 60 Mbps, which they said it might be too little power to function well. (by the way, to your knowledge can I download and watch movies with up to 60 Mbps?)
Therefore, I have installed the modem and have hooked it to the TP-link, and then used an Ethernet cable to connect it to my computer, but it does not receive signal that way.
What I still don’t understand is what should I use as a router now since I have disconnected the router/modem combo Spectrum has provided me with? Is the TP-link supposed to work as a router or am I missing something? Do I need to buy a different router, as well?
I am sorry I am so ignorant about these things; it is always easy to just go with what they give me free, but I am hoping you can help me figure this out and get a different low EMF connection after all…
Thank you, I appreciate all your help!
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You will do fine with streaming movies at 20 mbps.
The Arris modem I recommend is able to provide up to 174 mbps. So, it’s a matter of what you are paying Spectrum for (60 mpbs is adequate).
You don’t have a router in this setup. You just have a wired modem (Arris) and then an ethernet switch (TP-Link) that allows you to run Ethernet cables to multiple (up to 4) devices.
If things are not working, try running the cable directly from the Arris modem to your computer. Does it work then? If not, then it is a problem with Spectrum and how they have connected to your modem.
Usually unplugging your modem will reset it and things tend to work after this.
If you want to discuss further, let’s have a phone/Skype call. You can see this option here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
Emily
Jeromy, just wondering what you think about something I just heard someone say… that radio frequencies (RF) ground in metal objects and that includes amalgam fillings. Is this true? Does it apply to other types of radiation?
Thank you,
Emily
Jeromy
Hi Emily,
Great question. Indeed, metal can act as an antenna for RF and EMI (electromagnetic interference) in your environment. The frequencies will then conduct along the metal and possibly radiate outward.
This partly why I got rid of my amalgam fillings five year ago (they also add mercury to your system).
In your home, you just want to have really low amounts of RF and EMI. That way you don’t have to worry about the wiring and other metal in your home acting as an antenna.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Debra Greene, PhD
Here is a much simpler solution! Put Tesla Purple Plates near your computer to neutralize EMI. I use a Gigahertz 3830B meter to measure EMI and then position one or two credit card sized Tesla Purple Plates near the “hot spots” and voila! EMI gone! Jeromy I hope you will read this post and try this elegant solution yourself and please post your results. I got the Tesla Purple Plates from Philip Stul at http://www.TeslaPlates.com. They cost about $38 each.
Jeromy
Hi Debra,
I would appreciate it if you make a short video showing your claims above, post it on YouTube and then share it here as a comment.
There is no known mechanism in engineering for a special credit card shaped device to magically eliminate the electromagnetic interference being transmitted on your Ethernet cables to your computer. So, either there is user-error going on here with the measurements, or you have something to show us all.
Your video will help clarify.
Thanks,
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy,
Have you or anyone tested the Arris SB6141? The SB6121 is very quiet, but may be too slow for our needs.
Also, do you or anyone have any feedback on the Toshiba Satellite C55-B5300 16-Inch Laptop Intel Celeron N2840 Processor? This was the only new Toshiba Satellite I could find online that looks similar to the ones you recommended.
On Toshiba’s website there is a new model Toshiba Satellite with a Celeron Processor – Toshiba Tecra C40-D1400ED Laptop .http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/tecra/C40/C40-D1400ED?cm_mmc=search-_-result-_-celeron-_-%2Fcomputers%2Flaptops%2Ftecra%2FC40%2FC40-D1400ED
This has an Intel® Celeron® Processor 3865U rather than the Celeron N2840 Processor. Do you have any information on this processor? I was thinking if your experience with newer Toshiba’s holds true, then maybe this could be the one to consider.
Any feedback from you or anyone else would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Renee
TSkinner
We will be going wired soon (well as soon as I call to set up)…we will be using Comcast. I see your recommended devices above (thank you!)…one quick question…is important that the modem or router be placed at a specific distance away from the computer. Or does it matter since it’ll be wired?
Jeromy
It’s good to not have it right next to you (within 5 feet or so) as there is some EMI radiating from it.
It’s also good not to have it more than 50 feet from you. There can be significant EMI issues when you use Ethernet cables longer than 50 feet that need to be mitigated.
Thanks for asking.
Jeromy
Renee
Does the 50 feet Ethernet cable distance refer to the cumulative total distance originating from the Arris modem via the TP Link switch to the computer or just from the TP Link switch to the computer?
Jeromy
Renee,
It’s from the TP-Link Ethernet switch to your computer. You can break up the distance with the ground adapter seen above as well.
When you use longer Ethernet cords (say 100 feet), there is potential for more EMI at your computer.
Jeromy
Renee
Jeromy, Thanks for clarifying this! Renee
Tanya S
I just want to say this post helped us tremendously with connecting our wired internet! Thank you so much! I do not have a EMF meter yet however we officially have wired internet which is a huge step!!! I still need to work on the grounding piece. This is all new to me and I’m learning the new computer lingo. Ha! I did read on the site of the grounding piece for the Ethernet Adapter and it stated this: “Use this adapter kit to ground a laptop or other portable device. It can also be used to ground long Ethernet runs from one room to another or through walls. Desktop computers with grounded plugs do NOT need this adapter. But other non-grounded devices like laptops and printers should use this adapter to reduce electric field readings near the body.” My computer has 3 prongs…does that mean it’s grounded? It’s not a laptop…so…I don’t want to use it if it specifies not to or am I missing something?
Jeromy
Hi Tanya,
You should be good to go with this setup. Just note that you want your desktop computer as far from your body as possible. Don’t have it sitting right next to you.
You can add in the Ethernet ground adapter mentioned above. That will reduce any EMI coming from your router/modem.
Jeromy
Martin
Thank you Jeromy. I think I can notice an improvement unplugging the ethernet cable and instead using my phone’s cellular data via USB. I have also grounded my desktop PC and put it in another room behind two walls as I feel a bit sick being in the same room with it while it runs. Finally, I replaced my old fluorescent back-lit monitor with a LED one since all fluorescents seriously wear me out (UV blocking glasses help though).
Using my PC feels much more normal now, though I wonder why throughout my teens I was so addicted to sitting in front of it playing video games despite feeling so exhausted.
This is a weird problem we have…
Martin
Jeromy
Martin,
Glad you are making some changes and that they are helping. Here are some additional suggestions:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
More and more people are becoming affected, so it won’t be such a weird issue forever.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Alan
I haven’t read all of the posts here but here are some suggestions:
I have an iMac 27″ with a Retina screen which supposedly has a small EMF footprint, it certainly uses very little power 50 to 65 watts normally and 35 watts on screen saver)… but it is powered through a H10 Power conditioner by APC and there is very little dirty electricity on that circuit as measured by my Graham Stetzer meter. I plug the computer/modem/router/telephone/2magicJacks/printer/flat screen (42″ non-smart) TV/BluRay player/LED lamp all into it to clean it up and prevent surges. My last iMac made it to 9.5 yars till I replaced it because it was 2 slow, not because it died. Our house also has a surge suppressor at the panel to keep the power cleaner.
I put a cap over the Smart Meter made from metal window screen and grounded that which cuts out 75% of the signal.
Dana
Hi, Jeromy and Renee!
I would like to tell you that the Arris Surfboard SB6121 you have suggested me to get is actually working with Spectrum; you just have to call them up and give them the serial number and they will switch it over for you.
You can see over here:
https://www.timewarnercable.com/en/support/internet/topics/lease-or-buy-modem.html
Best,
Dana
Jeromy
Thank you Dana! Great to know.
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Dana,
I was only able to get Spectrum connected directly from the Arris modem to the TP Link switch for only one computer at a time. I am trying to connect 3 computers to it via the TP Link switch at the same time. and was told I needed a router. I called Spectrum & Arris with the serial number and after a few hours on the phone they couldn’t do it.
Are you using the TP Link switch directly from the Arris modem? If so, are you connected to only one device? It seems to work fine for one. Are you able to connect to more than one device at a time?
I’m glad to hear yours is working.
Renee
Dana
Jeromy,
I have a question about smart meters: I have just recently purchased an end unit condo, about which I did not realize at the time I was taking the decision of buying it that all the smart meters from my neighbors residing in the building were attached to the exterior wall of my kitchen…(there are a total of four). What would you suggest me doing for shielding the interior from them as on the inside wall I have the kitchen cabinets and a few rows of tiles between the upper and lover cabinets? I have looked on the lessemf.com website and I see that there is a ‘Smart Meter Shield Kit’ (involving both an RF reflector and an absorber material) available but that implies taking everything off the walls so lots of work I would prefer not to undertake since everything is new over there?
Therefore, I have thought about using a fabric (particularly the ‘High Performance Mesh’ fabric), which I would just hang in front of the cabinet area and cover part of the wall as well as the window on that same wall; do you think that such set-up would be efficient against smart meters radiation? (by the way, does the fabric require any kind of grounding in order to do the job or just hanging it would be sufficient?)
The ‘High Performance Mesh’ fabric seems to have the maximum shielding performance in a mesh fabric (of 50dB from 30 MHz to 3 GHz) and it is see-through.
I also understand that setting up exterior smart meter shields on the meters on my wall would not help my situation since I need to protect the inside part of the wall; am I right?
However, here is another issue: I actually do have five other smart meters pointing at my kitchen from the building adjacent from my apartment but I figure it is far enough as to not emit a lot of microwave signals in to my home? (we are talking about 20 feet distance from the other building to my outside wall). Do you think I am safe from those or is there anything I would need do about that, too?
This smart meter situation gives me a lot of trouble lately since I do not know what effect it could have on me in time but I would like to take all the possible measures in order not to find out…
Thank you so much for all the advice you share on your website, Jeromy!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
Thanks for your question.
The first thing I would do is measure what the smart meter exposures actually are. Here are two RF meters that would do the job. Use the code EMFA-10 for a 10% discount if you buy one:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Then I would determine the most effective shielding that will work for your aesthetics. See item #6 here for the best shielding solution in my opinion:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Shielding works best when grounded, but is not necessary.
Finally, it’s best to be about 50 feet from operating smart meters. Some people say 100 feet. It depends on the smart meter (some radiate with less power).
If you get some opt-outs from neighbors and use the smart meter guards, that will help in this situation. Also, if you are sleeping at a good distance away, that is also important. You want a low-EMF situation where you sleep.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Karen Blackwell
Hi there great blog,
You refer to using both a modem and a router – is there a difference between the two?
Here in Australia, we just have a modem with ethernet jack’s at the back into which I connect my desktop and kid’s laptops?
Can you please tell me the difference between the two?
Jeromy
Hi Karen,
Thanks for your question. Above in the comments is a thread with the same question from Kate Corcoran from Australia. Look through our messages there as that should help.
If not, let me know.
Use “Ctrl F” to search Kate on this page.
My best,
Jeromy
AJ
Jeromy, do you have an opinion about the EMF earthing mat made by earthing.com?
https://www.earthing.com/universal-mat-with-cover-kit.html/
Product description says the mat is carbon infused leatherette adhered to a PVC and latex free foam backing. It has a cord that plugs onto the mat on one end and the earthing plug (3rd round hole) on the other end.
AJ
AJ
Sorry, I meant the ground plug in the outlet (3rd round hole only).
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I don’t typically recommend such products. Here is why:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/is-grounding-good-for-you/
Jeromy
Dana
Hi, Jeromy!
I have set up my Internet using the Ethernet cables following your entire set-up suggestion and I am running into one problem: I can not use more than one computer at a time although I am using the 5 port TP-link connected to the Arris modem (every time I connect a second computer it does not work unless I disconnect the first one and I am restarting the router).
What do you think the problem could be?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
Sorry about that. It works fine like this for me and others. My guess is that your ISP is not providing the ability to split the IP addresses.
I would talk to them to see if they have had this problem before with equipment that is not their own. I suspect they simply won’t know, but a good tech from the company could figure this out or give you a straight answer.
A workaround would be to get your ISP’s non-WiFi modem (you would have to rent it from them) that integrates with their system. Then using the 5 port TP-Link should work fine for separate computers. If it doesn’t, then it is definitely a problem with their system/network.
Another idea would be to try a different model Arris modem. Often times, it takes some trial-and-error to get things to work properly as every ISP, home network and equipment setup is different.
Let me know how this goes.
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy & Dana,
I finally got a high level tech person @ Spectrum. He spent a lot of time going through the setup. He researched all our devices/equipment and called us back several times throughout the day.
The only thing he could come up with is that the signal Comcast provides may be different from the one Spectrum provides possibly allowing the IP address to split. But since he doesn’t have access to Comcast’s signal he couldn’t confirm this for certain. In order for the setup to work with Spectrum a router must be used.
So I’m curious if the people who have been successful with this setup are Comcast users only or are there any Spectrum users?
The issue with using Spectrum’s equipment, even Wi-fi disabled, is there is a router built in to the modem which is much noisier than your setup.
I am currently trying a TRENDnet TW100-S41CA router. This is a no wi-fi 10/100 router. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006I5XC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I’ve added it to the Arris modem and the TP-Link to allow for multiple computer use. It measures low with an AM radio and an electric meter but I’m not sure yet how I feel while using it.
Jeromy, do you have any comments about this router?
Thanks,
Renee
Jeromy
Hi Renee,
This looks like a good option. The router is a 10/100 mbps, which is slow enough to not have to much additional EMI. You may not even need the TP-Link Ethernet adapter. Just test with both to see what the electric fields are at your computer.
The ISP I tested the above setup on is called Vast. It’s a regional Midwestern ISP, not Comcast. I do believe others have gotten this setup to work with Comcast as well. Good to know it doesn’t work well with Spectrum.
It looks like you have a great solution figured out.
Jeromy
AJ
Hello Jeromy,
What is your opinion on this product?
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Complete-Remote-Cutoff-Kit-for-1-to-4-Circuits_p_105.html?a_aid=esh
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I prefer this product:
http://slt.co/Products/DemandSwitches/RemoteCutOffSwitch.aspx
A contactor is better than a switch, as it disconnects both the hot wire and the neutral for each circuit. This will reduce the EMI coming into a bedroom even more. The one above through Stetzerizer only cuts the hot wire (like turning off a circuit breaker switch).
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout to get a 10% discount on your purchase.
Your electrician will be able to install the contactor, which can be used for 4 different circuits.
My best,
Jeromy
Julie
Hi. Thanks for much for publishing this article. I am electrically sensitive, we got rid of our smart meter last year. I had our phone company (who provides our internet) out this morning to move our router to the dining room where we can hardwire all of the laptops, and easily turn off the WiFi.
I do sometimes use a desktop upstairs, so I purchased a powerline adapter. My husband plugged it in and instantly I could feel my entire body ‘buzzing’. Do you know anything about this, could it be the powerline adapter?
I’m going to look at your set up here and get started make sure our set up is low EMF.
Jeromy
Hi Julie,
Yes, the PLC (powerline communication) technology of the powerline adapter creates a high amount of EMI / “Dirty Electricity” on your home wiring. It will be on many of the circuits in the home and radiates out from the wiring. This is likely the primary reason you started reacting shortly after you started using it.
I would only have wired Ethernet in your home. That’s just the only way to go for electrically sensitive people. You can drill holes through the floors to run the Ethernet cables. It’s well worth the hassle!
Or, only do your computer work downstairs within an Ethernet cable length of the modem/router.
Look at item #4 here for shielded Cat7 cables. Some are even 50′ – 100′ to get upstairs.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/the-basics/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Dana Tolan
Hi, Renee!
Are you already using the TRENDnet TW100-S41CA router? Does it work with the Arris modem and the TP-link? I am thinking of getting it, as well; thank you for sharing!
Jeromy, do you know of any router, which produces low EMI and also has the WiFi option if needed?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I do not as I have not tested many WiFi enabled routers.
What I would suggest is to have a low-EMI completely wired setup as outlined in the article. Then, also have a WiFi enabled router (like a basic Netgear router) that you could put into your network in those rare occasions that you absolutely need WiFi.
That seems like the most practical solution and would give you a low-EMI setup 99% of the time.
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy, if I would purchase the Netgear router along with the non-Wi-Fi router TRENDnet TW100-S41CA, which Renee has suggested would I be able to switch from one to the other myself without calling Spectrum every time I would need to do that?
I will probably do that then. Thank you!
Dana
Dana
Thanks, Jeromy!
In order to switch from one router to the other would I need to call my ISP every time or could I just do it myself, do you know?
Thank you for your answer,
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You can typically switch out the routers/Ethernet switches with no problems. The modem can typically re-establish a connection with the new device.
If you run into problems with this, you can unplug the modem. When it powers back up, it will automatically sync with the new router in your network. This is the process I have used with multiple ISPs and it always works.
My best,
Jeromy
Alicia
Thank you so much, Jeromy, for all the information you’ve shared throughout your site! It’s truly been one of the MOST helpful resources we’ve found since beginning remediation six months ago.
We’ve never had any fancy tech, just plain, free antenna tv, and AT&T dsl internet (now hardwired only with shielded ethernet) and landline phone. With AT&T our bills have gone way up and service quality way down the last several years. To have a landline costs much more than $20 now! In researching alternatives (Mediacom cable), I came to your article here, and have a question regarding cable phone. In an answer earlier to Stephanie, you say a landline is preferable to cable phone. Is this because it’s difficult / impossible to find a safe cable + phone modem, or is there something inherently bad about cable phone service?
Any insight is greatly appreciated! This is such a steep learning curve.
Jeromy
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for writing. Glad the site has been helpful to you!
The reason that the traditional copper landline is better than a landline through your cable provider is that there will be less EMI coming to your landline phone.
Using VoIP (voice through your internet service) has usually made landline phones more troublesome for electrically sensitive people. I have experienced this multiple times.
So, it’s worth the $20/month to continue to have the regular landline service (if it is still available in your community).
I also encourage you to look into this analog landline setup that I have. It really makes a difference in diminishing headaches when talking on the phone:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/analog-phone-system/
My best,
Jeromy
Marie
Jeromy,
Thank you SO much for all this information. I am currently staying at a home with an Xfinity router. And no landline. (A definition of Hell.) In order to get through the next 3 weeks I found a used Arris Surfboard Modem you recommend and plugged in a router that I already have that looks very similar to what you recommend. It is also 10/100 mbps. After hours and hours (and hours) of tech support with Magic Jack and Trendnet, the router manufacturer, it was determined that the reason the Magic Jack is not working is because my router is too basic and doesn’t have port forwarding. And Magic Jack only works on ports 5060 and 5070.
Do you know if the TP-Link would probably not have port forwarding as well?
Until I find another router I’m without any phone service but Skype, which is pretty hard for me to use. Do you know if any other 10/100 mbps routers might actually have port forwarding?
Btw, I just saw your comment about VOIP and I completely agree–it’s quite problematic. But in a pinch with no copper landline it’s better than Skype. At least I think.
Thank you, again for your incredibly helpful education and giving people solutions. The info on Xfinity routers is priceless, and everyone needs to know.
Many thanks,
Marie
Jeromy
Hi Marie,
Glad this has all been beneficial.
Are you in the Bay Area? I know there Comcast will give you a new wired modem that is phone-enabled. I had one in San Francisco – just walked into the Comcast store and they asked no questions when I said what I wanted. Then you just plug your phone line into it and you are set.
I am leery of using Magic Jack. It is wireless only, correct? And, I know it is a powerful microwave source. Do you have an RF meter to test? This one is great for the price (you get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10):
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
As for a newer router that will work with Magic Jack/ Trendnet, I would get the newest Netgear router that has an On/Off button for the WiFi. That is likely your simplest solution. I have not tested the newest models myself.
Again, make sure you are testing things with your RF meter to make sure all antennas are off.
I also want to add that I actually do better on Skype on a low-EMF computer/internet setup (as discussed above) than I do on a landline that has a lot of EMI on it. If you do use a landline setup, then try this setup. It works great!
https://www.emfanalysis.com/analog-phone-system/
Keep me posted,
Jeromy
Alicia
Hi Jeromy,
With your ME 3851A, is there typically a lot of EMI from unhealthy pc setups, etc., when the filter function is set to 2kHz – 100kHz?
We have the Gigahertz Solutions ME 3030B, which has a small range of 16Hz to 2kHz. While it’s done a great job helping us find our home’s problem circuits, I’m not sure how much we may be missing at the higher frequencies.
Many thanks!
Jeromy
Hi Alicia,
Great question.
Most of the EMI coming to your computer via the Ethernet cable is from the SMPS (switch mode power supply) of your modem/router/ethernet switch. This is going to be lower frequency (multiples of the 50/60 Hz power supply).
For this, your meter is just fine to use and detect this EMI. The ethernet ground adapter mentioned above in the article also does a good job of eliminating this.
I rarely get high readings using the 2 KHz – 100 KHz setting. For the higher frequency EMI, you really need to be measuring in the 1 to 10 MHz range. However, even the most common professional meter available will only measure EMI up to 1 MHz.
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/NFA1000.aspx
For the EMI from 500 KHz to 2 MHz, you can use an old AM radio.
So, your meter is sufficient for now. Just get those E-Field readings below 5 V/m at your computer (and where you sleep).
Jeromy
Ann McPherson
Hi Jeromy,
I bought the SB6121 and tp 5-port Ethernet switch you recommend to try with Comcast. The system works with one laptop, but it won’t work with two laptops. I can’t access the internet on both laptops at the same time. I have to disconnect one and reboot the modem to get internet on the other laptop.
1. Other people seem to have this problem too, yet it works for you with Comcast. Why is that? What can I do? Do I have to get a router with a manual wifi switch, or is there another way around this?
2. Do I need the Ethernet grounding system if I always use my laptops with the power cords? Is that sufficient?
3. My laptop doesn’t have an Ethernet port so I bought an Ethernet adapter with a 3-port usb hub. Do I need to ground that too?
4. The other option is to hardwire into Sonic (with wireless disabled). Thoughts? It feels the same to me. How can I test whether that is better/worse than the SB6121?
Thanks for your help!
Ann
Jeromy
Hi Ann,
I would add this wired router into your setup. You can do this between your modem and the Ethernet switch, or you can use this in place of your Ethernet switch.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Broadband-Recognizing-Protection-TW100-S4W1CA/dp/B00006I5XC/
This should solve your problem with the Ethernet switch not working with Comcast.
Also, I always use my computers on battery power. You greatly increase the electric fields you are exposed to when a laptop you are using is plugged in. Read this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
The Ethernet-to-USB hub should be fine, as long as it doesn’t need to be plugged-in.
Let us know how this works for you.
Jeromy
Jeromy
Angie
Hi, I switched from Verizon to Comcast. Bought everything you suggested. But I can only get one laptop to work on the switch at a time. Comcast said they don’t give multiple up addresses and that I need a router for this to work.
Please give me your recommendation for what to do next.
Jeromy
Hi Angie,
It appears that some ISPs don’t allow for just an Ethernet switch to be used. I would add this wired router into your setup. You can do this between your modem and the Ethernet switch, or you can use this in place of your Ethernet switch.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Broadband-Recognizing-Protection-TW100-S4W1CA/dp/B00006I5XC/
Let me know that this worked for you.
Jeromy
Melissa
Hi Jeromy,
I currently have WiFi internet through my landline provider, Windstream. They provided the router, cables, setup, everything. Could I just call and have them switch me back to a wired system, or would I still need to get the specific router, cables, etc. mentioned in your article?
Thanks!
Melissa
Jeromy
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for writing.
I would work with them to either turn off any WiFi in their new modem or give you an older one that only uses Ethernet. In doing this, however, you need to be able to confirm that there is now WiFi. I like this RF meter to test – we all should have one.
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout for a 10% discount.
As for using the setup above, that would help with the EMI aspect (electric fields being transmitting from your modem along your Ethernet cables to your computer). However, that is kind of “next level” EMF remediation. First make sure you are not being exposed to WiFi. Then, if you are still EMF sensitive at your computer, follow the protocol above.
Keep me posted.
All my best,
Jeromy
Karen Blackwell
Hi there. Can these adaptors be used here in Australia. We have 240v and different plugs. Thanks.
Jeromy
Hi Karen,
They can be used in Australia, but the grounding plug won’t work in your outlets. What you can do instead is run and extension wire out to a copper ground wire outside. This will reduce the EMI coming to your computer.
Alternatively, you can use these items to ground the EMI on your Ethernet cables:
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/computer.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#704
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#291-ext
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#295
You can use these to also ground your Cat-7 Ethernet to a copper wire outside (which you can get a local hardware store for $2).
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Paul
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for the great article.
The crucial thing is to have all measurements well done. Let me then ask you about meters. Gigahertz ME 3851A is not cheap but seems to be the proper one. If I use Cornet ED88T instead, will I catch all the bandwith?
Other question is about the oscilloscope. It can be not so good for the laptop running on battery power, but is still good for measure EMI if we assume that wiring system in our walls and outside of them are the fundamental carrier. Although PicoScope 2200 Series Oscilloscope is not very expensive at first look, finally it is not cheap. We need to buy the active probe (decreasing input voltage to the safe level for this computer device) which costs 2-3 times of the price of the oscilloscope. Am I right or is any way to avoid buying the probe?
The most advantage of using an oscilloscope is wide range of the measurement, so I consider to use it as the main EMF meter.
Paul
Jeromy
Paul,
Sorry for the delay. Your comment was in the spam folder.
First, I recently uploaded this video which shows how I test and reduce the EMI for my computer setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
Second, the Cornet ED88T is not sensitive enough for electric fields in my opinion. It is only sensitive to 10 V/m, whereas 1 V/m is ideal. It does have a range of 50 Hz to 50 KHz, which will help you see if you have lower frequency EMI from the power supply of your router/modem. If there is a problem, it will detect it (typically giving you a reading over 100 V/m.
If you are price sensitive, the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B is a decent meter for around $200 (A notch down from the ME3851A). You get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10 at checkout:
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/ME3830B.aspx
Finally, I’ll connect you to a colleague of mine who is an expert with the Pico series. He can help you with your questions on this. I use an AM radio (as seen in the video above for testing the higher frequency EMI).
Jeromy
Jan
Hi Jeromy,
Love your site and blog posts. Very informative and comprehensive information. 🙂
We just started out over here in Australia and try to inform everyone about the dangers of EMFs and how to handle them.
Michael
Hi, I found a way of lowering the ethernet bandwidth of my CAT7 cable.
In the driver settings for your network adapter on windows 10 (Right click adapter; properties; configure; advanced tab; “Speed and duplex”). It’s 1 gbps normally, I set it to 100mbps full duplex. Have you tried this and/or tested? Was wondering if its enough to reduce the EMF or EMI by reducing the bandwidth with software. But I have no testing meters. And I wonder if its necessary given that CAT7 is shielded.
In the details tab of the adapter, it registers as 100mbps. Line fully disconnected and reconnected as I applied the change. I’d set it to 10mbps but have 25mbps internet.
Thanks for reading,
Michael
Jeromy
Hey Michael,
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
My question would be whether the router/modem you are using is actually able to modify this. Perhaps newer, gigabit speed models can.
Also, this would not help with the SMPS from the router/modem power supply that would transmit along your ethernet (even shielded cable).
CAT7 cables do reduce the radiated EMI along the cable, but not at the cable ends. There will still be a high presence of EMI there (per my measurements).
Here is a video I recently made showing how this works and what I do to reduce EMI:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
Thanks for writing.
Jeromy
Anna
Hello Jeromy.. I am hoping you can give me some advice on how to improvise an RF defense while temporarily staying with a relative in NYC. There are 15+ wifi networks in my living environment and there are probably antennas on the roofs of nearby buildings. I cannot pay 1k on fabric to make a Faraday cage but have seen people on YouTube improvise using aluminum insect screens or aluminum foil. Do you have any suggestions on a material that I can get easily?
Thank you
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Shielding is really difficult / ineffective unless you know what the exposures actually are and where they are coming from.
Having a basic RF meter is the best place to start. That way you can find the places that already have relatively love RF exposures (and avoid high exposure areas). You will be surprised that sometimes buildings/spaces in a city have low exposures.
I would get this one. You get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10:
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Once you know the exposures, thick tinfoil is your best inexpensive shielding alternative. I list other fabrics/material here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
I also get a headache when I’m watching television. Of course, the remote control is not being used and the set up is wired. Still I get a headache.
Is this also EMI?
Jeromy
Very doubtful as you are not right next to the TV.
John
Jeromy – love the article and information!!
In respect to a line EMI meter by Alpha Labs I am considering buying.
Any thoughts to the Greenwave EMI meter – looks very similar. I know this article is about safe wired network which is on my list of upgrades but my next project is identifying other dirty electricity in my house. It seems the Greenwave and Stelzers filters are options – any thoughts there appreciated as well. Hence if you recommend one over the other would seem to make sense to buy their meter?
Please correct my thinking if I am wrong.
Thanks again!
John
Jeromy
Hi John,
Thanks for asking.
The EMI meters are the same – both made by Alpha Labs. I don’t tend to recommend the Stetzer meter. You can get the Alpha Labs meter here for the least expensive price with a 10% discount (use the code EMFA-10):
http://slt.co/Products/PowerLineMeters/LineEMIMeter.aspx
I don’t recommend the filters (Greenwave or Stetzer). There are technical reasons for this, which I summarize in my book:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
The biggest of which is that they are basically capacitors. Their function is to move the EMI from differential mode (hot wire) to common mode (neutral/ground). So, the EMI is still present on the wiring, but it is not being measured by their meters.
An even better test for EMI is to use an AM radio at the breaker panel. You can identify and reduce EMI sources there. If you ever want to learn how to do this, book a phone/Skype consult with me here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
What is your view on EMF from television? I feel the same effect when a television is playing a video through a cable when compared to a video played by a computer on wired internet.
Jeromy
Yash,
Sometimes the data line (cable/internet) coming into a home has a lot of EMI on it. This is particularly true with high-bandwidth systems. Filtering the line coming into the home is the best solution. You may also want to find ways to ground the frequencies, like I do here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
As for the TV and EMI, I assume you are sitting 10-15 feet from the TV. That is generally a ways away to be reacting to the TV and any EMI. It makes more sense when you are at a laptop that is directly connected to the EMI through an Ethernet cable.
One partial solution, in addition to what I write above, is to have the lowest bandwidth package possible through your cable/internet provider.
Jeromy
Dragonfly
Hi,
I am putting in place ethernet wiring around the house, in order to avoid wifi due its radiation emission. As far as I have understood, the external internet cable is plugged into the modem, which is then plugged into the router (some devices are a combi modem/router), which is then plugged into the switch, then this is wired to a patch panel, and from there wires are dispersed around the house to various fixed locations being available through wall sockets. I am planning to run the wires through the skirting and (where there are doors I need to pass) the architrave around doors. I might be painting the wall, skirting etc around the wires using emr shielding paint and earthing. Since all these wires are running through the skirting, I need the wires to not take up too much space so I can fit them all in. Hence why I am thinking of flat wires. But are these good enough in terms of blocking interference compared to the rounded ones? Also, running so many ethernet cables parallel to one another, would that cause any serious interference?
Now getting to my main question, can I use the ethernet ground adaptor between the router and the switch only, rather than have one for every wire that leaves the switch as is suggested above? Will that have the same grounding effect?
Thank you.
Jeromy
The flat, sheilded CAT7 cables seen in item #4 here should work perfect. They do a great job for me and are well-shielded:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/the-basics/
Also, you want the Ethernet ground adapter between the switch and your computer/laptops. The reason is that the switch will generate SMPS EMI from the power source. The Ethernet ground adapter will reduce most of this EMI, provided it is between the switch and your device.
Jeromy
Dragonfly
Thank you, I really appreciate you replying. And thank you for the article!
Lili
Hi!
Is Cat 7 better than shielded Cat 5?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Lili,
I always use the thin, shielded Cat-7 cables with metal ends.
Provided the shielded Cat-5 cables have metal ends and you measure low electric fields at your computer (below 2 V/m), they should work well.
Jeromy
Lili
I asked quotes from local electrician to wire Ethernet (To avoid WiFi) with CAT7 and he wrote: “the standard CAT5E is a huge step up from WiFi signals. Further the shielded cable will offer almost no EMF. The 5-6-7 is purely distance ratings for loss of signal. Most supply houses don’t carry CAT7. Our CAT5E has better ratings for distance then any home depot or lowes cat6 so the CAT5E is OK for any residential use.” Would you agree?
Jeromy
You should be just fine with a shielded CAT5 cable. However, once you start getting over 50 feet in length, you can have additional EMI on the cable. Usually running long lengths of cable is not the best solution, unless it is your only solution (e.g. your office is across the home from your modem).
I would encourage you to have a simple setup that would not need an electrician to wire anything. You just get the Ethernet cables I recommend above on Amazon and install yourself.
Again, you will only know if your system has low-EMI by measuring with an electric field meter at your computer once everything is setup. I recommend the meter to do this above in the article.
Jeromy
Antonio
I think this is little too much over reaction, I have a Gigabit router and I’m going to get Gigabit internet very soon. I understand that Wifi has a EMF radiation (I turn off my WiFi before I go to bed), but ethernet too? This article only applies to people that are highly sensitive, right?
Jeromy
Good question.
In general, this website offers advice to people who have some level of electrical sensitivity. To that end, I have received hundreds of emails/comments from people who say that the above procedure has helped them to use their computer much longer without symptoms. This has been the case for me as well.
If you are not electrically sensitive, then the perhaps the technique outlined above does seem overblown. However, I wasn’t electrically sensitive for 15 years of heavy computer/WiFi/cell phone use. Then I was. I wish I could go back and reduce some of those exposures by taking a few simple steps in important areas (such as the process above).
EMI or power quality is just as important as WiFi exposure when it comes to our health, if not more. However, most people are not ready to look at this yet (unless they have to).
Jeromy
Rebecka
I saw your lecture at TEDx Talks on YouTube. I don’t know if I’m hypersensitive, but I’m still worried about EMF (I may have unexplained headaches and fatigue, but it’s difficult to know the reason behind it for sure). My dad has undergone an operation of his testicles after wearing a smartphone in his pants pocket for almost 3 years. This is a conclusion he himself has drawn. Most mock me when I try to discuss EMF online. Only a few seem to take my concerns seriously.
I’m now trying to reduce my cell phone usage. I’ll invest in a real camera so I don’t need to use a phone to take pictures and shoot videos. Now I only need a cell phone that exposes me for as little EMF as possible, but I don’t know which one to choose.
Should I choose a feature phone or a smartphone or it doesn’t matter? Should I care about the SAR values even though it’s not the best measurement tool of EMF? I know that Samsung has the lowest SAR values. First, I thought I’d buy a GSM phone (2G/Edge) for just calling and sending text messages, but then I’ve read that it’s not necessarily the best. Apparently, good coverage is good for reducing EMF (better coverage would mean less EMF due to strong signal strength). True? Since the GSM network is being phased out, I assume that a 4G/LTE phone is better in that regard.
Which phone do you use? I understand that the use of mobile phones should be reduced first and foremost, as well as keeping distance (I can’t find any headphones with air tube in Sweden but I’ll check outside of Sweden/EU). I think that there must be worse and better alternatives.
Last but not least, the Internet connection at home. We have had mobile broadband for several years now. First we had a USB modem in the computer, but since 2013 we have a Wi-Fi router for connecting multiple devices. I understand that this is bad. Unfortunately, we don’t have access to a fiber network and the property we live in shows no interest for it either. We may move away from here, but at this time, this is not an option we have.
So what can I do instead? Does it matter if I use a modem for the data card instead of a Wi-Fi router, and drag a network cable from it to the computer? Or is it pointless when it’s still a mobile network? How is broadband via the telephone jacket? Is it better than mobile broadband? This will be replaced by the fiber network in the future but that’s fine.
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
A few points/articles that may help you out.
1.) You can have pretty much any phone you want, but it’s how you use it (and how much you can not use it). SAR really means very little. You never want to put a cell phone next to your body. I list the ways to reduce your exposure here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
2.) I do have a phone (an old Nokia – where you press the “7” four times to type an “S”) for the occasional text message. I’ll go three weeks without turning it on and have not taken a call or used a smart phone in six years (my friends email me on my wired computer). If the majority of people just used cell phones for important text messages (I’m running late, I had an accident, etc. . ), then we would need a fraction of the cell towers and the RF power density would drop exponentially in our cities. We would have a healthy society again. I see this for our future, once society wakes up to this problem.
3.) For your internet at home, the main thing is that you have a wired modem/router and that you are bringing the data to your computers via Ethernet. If you must get the data from the provider using wireless, then put the modem/router far away from you. I list how to setup a wired internet system in the article above and here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
4.) Hopefully you can get some good EMF meters to check out your home. I list the ones I recommend here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Keep in touch!
Jeromy
Rebecka
1. & 2.) I understand what you are saying. SAR-values does not mean as much as how I use my phone or how often I use my phone.
I have decided to ditch my smartphone for now, and go with a feature phone. Now I will automatically use the phone less because of that. But, if I do all these things (I use it less, using headset with airtube or phone speaker, put it on airplane mode when its on my body), isn’t low SAR values a bonus then? Or no?
I have just found a flip phone (2G/GSM network only) with 0,583 W/kg (body)/0,249 W/kg (head). I don’t think I have seen this low values in forever (probably EU values, not sure).
As for headset with air tube, I don’t like all headsets (in-ear style). So I wonder if the Ferrite Snap Beads is a good option? I did find them on Amazon UK and they are cheap (I could also give a pair to my dad):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=ferrite+snap+beads
I only attach these to my prefered wired headset?
3.) I will have to think about this. The placement of the Wi-Fi router, but also if I should buy a Wi-Fi router with ethernet port so I can run a cable from the Wi-Fi router to my computer. It should be better then Wi-Fi even if the data is coming from the outside/a cell tower?
We will switch to fiber network when we can. Then we ditch Wi-Fi completely and use cables.
4.) I have actually been checking them out. I have looked them up on Amazon UK and DE but they are quite expensive for me right now.
I found this one in Sweden:
https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/verktyg/matinstrument/specialinstrument/emf-detektor-p48206
Not sure if you understand what it says, but it measures 1-10 mG. Could it be a good start?
If you download the PDF called “Manual – Engelsk” on the product page, the manual is in English.
Thank you so much for taking you time to answer my questions.
Rebecka
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
1.) I would not use a cell phone for calls anymore. Only text messages. Use a landline at home or a wired computer with Skype. This is what I have done for nearly six years and it works great.
2.) The Ferrite Beads don’t do as well as an airtube headset. So, try to get an airtube headset that you like if you can. Then get an extension cord so the phone is farther away from your body (if you do use it for calls).
3.) Yes, definitely get a router where you can run and Ethernet cable to your computer. The lowest EMF setup for internet is in the article above.
4.) The meter you link to above is only a Gauss meter. It measures just magnetic fields (not RF). If you want an inexpensive all-in-one meter, this is the best one to get:
http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88TPlus-esh.html
All my best and keep in touch,
Jeromy
Rebecka
1.) That’s impressive. No calls for six years. I admit, I rarely make phone calls, but sometimes “I have to”. They are usually short because I pay by minute (no free calls for me). Only when I receive calls, they become longer.
2.) I was afraid of that. I want a pair of headset that goes in-ear but not like earplugs like most do. I prefer headset like the ones I have now which is Philips SHQ1200PK. The shape reminds of Apple EarPods. I could even accept a round shape, as long as it does not go into my ear canal.
I was thinking, should I use air tube headset even with my computer? Even if the computer is wired? Because if so, I would prefer a over-ear headset at home.
I can also use the phone speaker (and external speakers for my computer). But sometimes I just want to be private. That’s when the headsets come in.
3.) Ok, that sounds great. I hope I can get fiber one day soon, but until then I buy a Wi-Fi router with ethernet port(s). I won’t use Wi-Fi but I’m not sure I can get my dad off Wi-Fi yet. We turn it off at night at least, or when not in use.
4.) Thanks for clarifying. I will take a look at that one.
Rebecka
Rebecka
I’m not fond of this in-ear style but I guess they would do the job?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012FXSAOW/?coliid=I1NX1L0WO65JQR&colid=TKNXQC1CEFTB
Rebecka
Here are other ones but more expensive:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078TGGMB6/?coliid=IPES4ATSJ6UIB&colid=TKNXQC1CEFTB
I assume both would work.
Jeromy
This should work. You can also have the brands seen in #1 here shipped to you in Sweden:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Deborah
Hi Rebecka,
Try these low emission headsets. They aren’t wonderful, but much more comfortable than most and they don’t fall out of my ears!
https://harapad.com/shop/laptop/low-emission-headset/
Deborah
Dragonfly
Hi,
I am towards the end of the process of deciding what to get for the home Ethernet wiring system I mentioned earlier. I am running the wires through the skirting, then when I get to the doors I am planning to run them under the doors. We will then be putting tiles onto the floors, hence I will not be able to access the wires running under the doors anymore. I am thinking of running the wires trough a tube when they cross the doors, since it will allow me to access the wires afterwards from either end of the tube, and it will protect the wires, and it will add extra shielding effect if I use the correct material. What material would you suggest I use? Is copper a good idea, as opposed to plastic, aluminium or steel? Would it provide more shielding? Does it matter that copper is electrically conductive and will there be any heating issues? I do not yet have the device and items in order to test the shielding so thought I’d ask your opinion since you have experience in this field.
I also wanted to ask further about the grounding of the wires from the switch. My wires will be individually running from the switch through the patch panel and then around the house to the ports (wall sockets). I will be grounding the whole patch panel (this sits between the switch and the wall sockets). Will that do the job; or do I need further grounding? And if I need further grounding, could I then individually ground each wires as it crosses from the switch to the patch panel? Will that have the required affect?
Thank you, I appreciate your help.
Jeromy
Hey Dragonfly,
A few thoughts:
1.) If you are using shielded Cat-7 Ethernet like I recommend above, you will not need much additional shedding. To be safe, you could put in EMT conduit. That would really do the trick.
2.) You really need to measure this in order to know whether your shielding is doing any good or making things worse. You always find interesting things when you do this type of work.
3.) For shielding material, I would look at the AL-60 wall shield in #7 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
4.) I ground each individual Ethernet line after the TP-Link Ethernet switch. You only need to ground the lines that you are using at your computer(s).
If you have questions on your project, you can book a Skype, phone or email consult here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
That will help me get more specific with your situation and helps support my work.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Rebecka
I don’t know where on your website I read it, but somewhere you wrote that Mac radiate more EMF than PC. Do you mean MacBooks’ or even iMacs’? Is it when Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth is turned on?
I’m going to sell my MacBook Pro to buy a desktop computer (mostly because of ergonomics, price and since I use my MBP as a desktop computer anyway). I have considered a PC, but the reason I still leans towards an iMac is because of video editing and I think I prefer iMovie and Final Cut Pro.
If I buy an iMac and connect to the Internet through wired Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi, turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, could it not be low-EMF? I could replace the Magic Keyboard and Magic Mouse 2 with a wired keyboard and mouse from another brand, since these are Bluetooth wireless (they might look nice but they don’t look to be ergonomic anyway).
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
I write about that in #5 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
Many ES people react to Apple computers more so. If you are not ES and you need the Mac software for your work/business, then the setup you mention above with the iMac should not be a problem.
Distance is your friend with EMFs, along with turning off all of the wireless capabilities.
Jeromy
Rebecka
Thank you for the link.
It doesn’t sound good that people react more to Apple computers. I’m not ES myself. I don’t react to anything as far as I know, but I don’t feel good or too healthy either, so I think I would do myself and others a favor if I minimize the EMF pollution in my home.
Yes, distance and turning off everything wireless should perhaps be good enough.
Rebecka
Rebecka
Hello again.
Do you know anything about the Mac mini? I know it has not been updated for a while and we don’t know if it will ever be updated either.
Do you think that the current Mac mini would be a better choice than an iMac?
I will still buy wired keyboard and mouse from another brand and I could buy a Dell UltraSharp U2415 screen to go with it.
Do you know what people with EHS say about the current Mac mini models?
Rebecka
Rebecka
I should probably mention that I’m considering buying a used Mac mini from late 2012. This is because you can upgrade its RAM and HDD/SSD, which you can’t in the newer ones.
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
The best advice is always to try it out for yourself and see how you do with the machine and how it works for you. There is no clear cut answer for this as every person is different.
My best,
Jeromy
Lisa
Regarding CAT7 vs CAT6, can you give a recommendation? Is the CAT7 worth the money?
Thanks,
Lisa
Jeromy
Hi Lisa,
Both work from a shielding perspective. However, for grounding you want a cable with metal ends. This is why I recommend the flat CAT7 cables above in the article. If you can find CAT6 cables with metal ends, they will work too.
Jeromy
Brad
I have Verizon. How do I turn off the Wi-Fi if the Modem and Router are in one box? I have DSL. I don’t think they let you use items separate. Would I just buy longer wire like you mentioned and put the box even further away from my Desktop?
Jeromy
Hi Brad,
I have not worked with a Verizon modem/router combo yet. Could you call them and ask how to or if it is possible to disable the WiFi in the router? They may be able to give you a wired-only modem. Then you can use your own router (wired if possible) as I mention in this article.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Do you have an RF meter to test if the WiFi is off? Get either of these:
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/CornetED88TPlus.aspx
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout for a 10% discount.
Keep me posted.
Jeromy
Gwen
I also have a modem/router in one box from Comcast/Xfinity. It’s their XB6-A model, and I did find out that the WiFi can be turned off thru my account on the Comcast website. Do I still need to get the two-ethernet-cable system you recommend since I don’t need the switch?
I will also need a USB adapter to plug the Ethernet cable into my Macbook Pro laptop. Is there anything special to be concerned about in choosing an adapter?
Thanks so much Jeromy!
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for writing/asking. There are a few key points to your comment that I will address here:
1.) We have seen many people “turn off” their WiFi through their Comcast account and run into problems. There appears to be a system-wide Xfinity reset every couple weeks that turns it back on automatically (likely for software updates). Unless you have an RF meter and you are checking it regularly, odds are the WiFi is still blasting. Furthermore, there is the “community” WiFi aspect of Comcast Xfinity that serves people walking by your house. This may still be on, even if you think you are turning off all of the WiFi.
Read the update of this article to learn more about this and see what wired Comcast modem is better for you:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
2.) With whatever modem you do use, I would still use the Ethernet switch and grounding adapter mentioned above in the main article. This will reduce the EMI coming to your devices (which is quite important as you will see below).
3.) For Apple adapters, see what I outline in this article. It is usually best to use Apple hardware with Apple devices.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-wire-an-ipad/
4.) Finally, many people react to MacBook Pro and MacBook Air computers. Some even become electrically sensitive because of these computers. It is part of the design with the aluminium case and how it conducts electric fields coming from the Ethernet system and power source. Below is a video that demonstrates this. I would always operate your MacBook Pro on battery power, ground your Ethernet system (per article above) and use an external keyboard and mouse (wired with plastic keys – not the Apple version). Of course, don’t use WiFi either. This should make your Apple computer much more EMF friendly.
The video about MacBook Computers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zyk0zWlEKI
Note that this phenomenon does not happen with non-Apple plastic cased computers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xy33EEX52U
Hope this all helps (and was not too much more than you asked for!).
Jeromy
Gwen
Thanks so much for your guidance – I will look into all of this!
Gwen
I looked into getting getting the Arris modem you recommended, but it looks like Comcast no longer has these available at all. Looks like the best option is to go with the Netgear N600 (since I need occasional wireless.) Will the low and high frequency EMI on the ethernet cables that you warn about be anything I can do anything about? Will the ground adapter help with that?
Upon researching the Netgear N600 it appears that it only has one on/off power switch, not a separate switch to turn the wifi on/off. I was hoping to have a system that would allow for a simply on/off when I want to access wireless, or not. Do you know of another router/modem combo that will offer this?
And if I have the router/modem combo will I still need the 2 ethernet cables with a switch? I wasn’t clear on the purpose of the switch
I have ordered a wired keyboard. Thanks so much Jeromy – can’t wait to have this in place!
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
I’ve answered most of your questions below. For your specific networking questions, please send me an email. I have an affordable email or Skype consulting rate that helps make my work sustainable:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
All my best,
Jeromy
Gwen
I talked to Comcast and at this point it seems the do NOT have any of the older Arris modems available. The tech guy did say I could use the bridge mode wifi disabling process to turn it off on my existing modem/router (as well as the hotspot capacity) but from your article it sounds like this is not a sure thing. And I don’t want to have to wonder if the wifi is on. Sounds like the way to go is to get the Netgear N600?
I have a landline through Comcast, so am assuming that the Netgear N600 router/modem would work for my telephone service too – so that unit would be all I need, aside from the ethernet cables, etc.? I already had my landline number ported over to Comcast, so dropping that and going with Ooma doesn’t seem like it will save me much.
Although after having read the reviews on the Netgear N600 it looks like there is not an on/off switch for the wifi – just a power on/off for the unit. Hmmm. Want to make sure I get something with an easy physical switch to turn the wifi off/on. Any thoughts?
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
Comcast does have wired only modems in stock. They are providing them to customers in the San Francisco Bay Area. Just have them ship one to you if you do not live near there. I list this at the top here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
When you are dealing with big corporations like Comcast, you often have to figure out ways to help the employees think outside the box. They have a certain way of doing things and anytime you disrupt this it can be difficult for them.
You can also buy your own modem that is compatible with Comcast. This will also save you the $10/month rental fee. Here is an article that list models that are compatible with Comcast. A Netgear option should be a good choice:
https://blog.chron.com/techblog/2014/06/want-to-use-your-own-modemrouter-with-comcast-heres-how/#24139101=0
This should help you find the right model too: https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/
A Netgear modem like this should work, but it doesn’t have the telephone ports. For that, it’s usually best to use one of Comcast’s wired modems:
https://amzn.to/2vViZ87
Regarding being able to turn off the WiFi, every Netgear router I have ever seen has this ability. It is usually just a button you press. If you get this one and it does not work, let me know. It shows here that there is a “On/Off” for WiFi (to save power):
https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/cable-modems-routers/C3700.aspx
Keep me posted,
Jeromy
Dave
Here in the UK I use Connectix double shielded cables particularly CAT6A SFTP (shielded AND foiled) types, they’re great at preventing ethernet based interference to other devices (and people) whilst also preventing external interference causing problems to the ethernet connection : )
Alfred
Hi Jeromy,
I’ve been off on other things but I’ve returned to my work of reducing EMF exposure for my wife and I. I have to catch up on your blogs and also finish my project of reviewing all of your earlier articles. However, I’d like to get some quick guidance right now.
I’ve almost completed my “EMF Reduction Checklist” that you earlier helped me to put together. I’ve got a few more related questions that will help me to finish this checklist.
1) We relocated our cable modem to a location in our office that is the furthest from us (13’ away). Our computers and our printer are wired to the modem with Cat7 (shielded) cables. We use wired keyboards and mice and a desktop flatscreen that are connected to our laptops, which are positioned more than 3 feet away from our bodies (on the floor by our respective desks, with an aluminum cooking sheet covering the laptops). We only turn on WIFI when we need to use it, and turn it off immediately after we’re done. Don’t know if any damaging radiation is emanating from the cable modem when WIFI is off. Is the cable modem far away enough from us now to not matter, or should we also put a router guard/pouch over it as well (and take it off whenever we need to use WIFI)?
2) Would it be beneficial to install a Faraday canopy over our bed to shut out any cell tower RF and/or neighbor WIFI radiation?
3) We can get land lines and have calls to our cells roll over to the land line. Cell phones can be placed out of the way in some remote part of our cabin where we won’t have much exposure to them. Then only need to use cell when we’re traveling. Good idea?
4) Do ferrite beads actually work to reduce EMF exposure? If so, should they be put on keyboard cables, mouse cables, airtube earbuds, headsets, etc?
5) Are the following EMF defensive supplements truly valid and helpful: mixed magnesiums; magnesium bicarbonate; molecular hydrogen, liposomal Vit C? (It is expensive and a hassle to deal with this and I don’t want to waste my time if it hasn’t been scientifically proven that they do defend.)
Thanks!
Alfred
Jeromy
Hi Alfred,
Just a few quick answers to your questions:
1.) Email me about this setup.
2.) Bed canopies work well, provided you need one. You will only know by measuring the RF with a meter seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
I list my favorite bed canopies here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/bed-canopies/
3.) Yes, a good idea, but here are some more cell phone safety tips:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
4.) I wouldn’t focus on these. They can help in certain cases, but there are much better ways to ground the EMI (see article above).
5.) I list what has been helping me here. You simply have to go through the process of seeing what helps your body with its particular genes and needs:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/brain-health/
Jeromy
MP
Hi Jeromy,
We are wanting to go wireless, but our 2 oldest kids like to use wireless for FB messaging as it is cheaper than paying for texting/data. So we would like to have wireless as an option — and it would only be flipped on when really “needed” (rarely) for this. Do you have information on the best way to go about this?
Also, it is odd. Our router recently broke, and so we had to just plug the internet directly into our tower/PC–until we can buy another router (why I am here on your site: researching what/the best to get). You would think this would make us feel better, but we actually feel worse by the computer now. We have an older PC; maybe it has something to do with that?
(I have an AM radio, but not radio shack. I have been wanting a meter, but not sure what to get. I appreciate the info in another comment about the Cornet meter–recommended on Electricsense. I’d heard other places it was not the best, but… So I will look more closely at what you recommend.)
Thanks.
Jeromy
Hi,
I get into how to a WiFi option when you need it on this post:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
I know a family that has a red light bulb plugged into the same extension as the WiFi router so that the family can see when the WiFi is turned on. It’s a great solution for a reminder.
As for why you are experiencing symptoms from the new setup, it could very well be the EMI from you internet provider. By using the steps I share in the article above, you will fix this.
For good EMF meters that won’t break the bank, here is my list:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
MP
Thank you so much, Jeromy.
I looked at your article on how to do the wifi option. We live in the country, so we have Pixius– and receive our internet via a satellite on our roof. Any specific recommendations on that??
Also, w/ choosing a router/modem: Pixius has options, but also lets us choose our own. Previously, we had a Linksys modem/router for wifi… and we just unplugged it when not in use. Recently, when we decided we wanted a wired system primarily, w/ wifi as an option, we had a tech guy out to help. He said our Linksys would work for both Ethernet and wired. So, he got us registered w/ Linksys (We’d not done that yet, even tho we’ve had it over a year.), and set it up for wired w/ the wifi. (He also told us we didn’t need to unplug it– that we could just shut it off via a “switch” on Linksys’s website– also showed us how to switch bands, etc on the site; had parental controls too). We were so excited– and that night it stopped working!! Odd— Pixius said it likely got “clogged up”. (I had gone in and turned wifi on that evening and chose the wide band; maybe I did something wrong?) Anyway, here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-EA6350-Wireless-Dual-Band-Anywhere/dp/B00JZWQW4C?th=1
Does it look good for what we want to do? If so, we are thinking we will try it again… maybe it was a fluke that it stopped working right after he/we messed with it?
Or is it not ideal–do we need something else like Netgear (if it would work)? The specs get me confused; I don’t understand it all.
Thanks, again.
MP
Jeromy
MP,
I have never worked with or heard of Pixius, so I can’t offer any specific solutions for integrating low-EMF hardware with them.
I do have a lot of specific advice for working with HughesNet satellite internet that may be of help to you. If you want to go this route, I have a basic email consulting option here that pays for my time organizing and sending the information:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Otherwise, I would work with Pixius to provide you with a wired modem/router. You will need to confirm that WiFi is off with the RF meter I mention in my comment below.
Keep me posted.
Jeromy
Michele
Jeromy,
MP again.
In addition to the questions/concerns in my previous comment….
I took a good look, and our satellite has 2 wires coming from it: one runs down to a grounding rod; the other (internet wire) runs down to a small box on our home. We opened it up: it clips to a surge suppressor — which also has a grounding wire coming out of the bottom of it. The wire coming out of the other side of the surge suppressor runs into our home. (Our PC is right on the other side.) The grounding wire (coming from the surge suppressor) runs to the grounding rod as well. So, do we need the grounding adapter?? All components (satellite itself & internet) appear grounded…. but why are we having so many more health issues then? I wonder if something is not right…
Also, I looked at the Mbps on our Linksys vs. the Netgear router/modem you recommend. Linksys’s website says it has a “max link rate” of 867Mbps vs. 340 on the Netgear. (Not as appealing as the 50-100Mbps of the TP LInk, but it’s the price one pays for wifi capability I guess.) Many of the rest of the specs are confusing to me. So Netgear would be better?
Finally, we are saving up for a meter. I saw your package 1 and 2. The price break (15%) is w/ buying an entire pkg, correct; no price break buying individually? If we just can’t swing the package deal right now (need to talk to my husband), is there 1 meter you recommend to start with/what is the order of buying? Also, if we go w/ pkg 2, what exactly will we not be able to measure without the Alpha labs magnetic field meter in pkg 1?
Thanks, MP
Jeromy
Hi Michele,
You do get a 10% discount on the meter if you buy just one. This is my favorite for an all-in-one meter. Use the code EMFA-10 for your discount:
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/CornetED88TPlus.aspx
You will only know if you need the grounding once you measure what EMI is coming to your computer. I have a feeling that there is still EMI coming to your computer even though the modem is grounded.
How/when did you symptoms start? With this new satellite internet setup? What else changed in your environment?
Jeromy
Dave
If I am going to wire my network, but I have many devices to hook up (PC, laptop, PS4, TV, etc.) then do I need to do the grounding solution for each device?
Jeromy
Hi Dave,
In order to ground the EMI coming from the power supply of your Ethernet switch, you would need a ground adapter between the switch and each device. This would mean two ethernet cables as well.
However, I would only do this for devices I am physically using/holding, such as a laptop or tablet. This is where the EMI can be an actual problem. If there is EMI travelling to your TV, which is 10-20 feet from you, no need to worry about this.
I only have one ground adapter setup and rotate/use all of my devices on that. setup. That has been the simplest solution for me.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Amanda
I’m trying to move away from WiFi in our home and have begun the process of wiring the home for ethernet. If I have already purchased 1000 ft of Cat6e unshielded cable, am I making a big mistake and should I be getting shielded cable instead? (I was told that most houses in our area wouldn’t have a place to ground the cable anyway?) Also I have already purchased a 24-port Gigabit switch and after reading this blog article, I’m thinking we should have gone with the 10/100Mbps one instead. We don’t have anyone in our house who is extremely sensitive to EMF; we are just trying to take some general precautions for our family’s health. Thank you!
Sarah
Hi Jeromy,
Great article, thanks for taking the time to help people!
I work at a computer all day, and I suffer from crippling headaches. I’ve often wondered if it’s related. If not, it certainly triggers them.
I’ve looked at the equipment you’ve mentioned, but it says compatible with US companies. I’m in the UK. The company I’m with is called ‘TalkTalk’. It’s not fiber optic broadband that I have, but it is fast, and the company provide the box (is it possible to use another box when a company gives you one of their with a dedicated password?)
I don’t suppose you would be able to advise me on if these modems/routers would be compatible with the company I’m with?
I look forward to your reply.
Thanks,
Sarah
Jeromy
Hi Sarah,
Great questions. Thanks for asking.
Here is what I would do:
1.) Contact your internet provider and ask what modems are compatible with their system that you could purchase yourself. Then I would get the slowest one possible (something the provides speeds under 100 mbps, rather than the gigabit speeds that most modems have today). If you have to use their modem, make sure you can disable any WiFi component or have them provide you with a modem/router with no wireless capability.
2.) Once you have a slower modem (or even if you must use what you currently have), I would them employ a slow Ethernet switch like this one between the modem and your computer:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SF1005D-V14-5-Ports-Ethernet/dp/B0766D8HZ3/
3.) From here, I would ground the Ethernet system as I outline in the article above. You can do that using this product:
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
I outline how to physically ground the Ethernet adapter directly below the green video above in the article.
4.) Finally, I would use CAT7 Ethernet cables throughout your system. You will need one going from your modem/router to the Ethernet switch. Then you will need two going from your Ethernet switch to your laptop/computer. There are two because the Ethernet ground adapter is placed in between them.
Here is one Ethernet option in the UK similar to what we use in the US:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Primewire-5-0m-Patchcable-Shielding-compatible/dp/B01N8UD3RF/
If you need EMF meters in the UK, here is a page I have on this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/united-kingdom/
Here are the EMF meters I typically recommend to test a home / computer setup:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this all helps! Let me know how it goes with your internet company.
Jeromy
Jeromy
Dear Sarah,
Further comments on this question of low-EMF internet for UK residents from an excellent EMF consultant there:
My advice is the same as yours, broadly. There are some differences but I am listening and learning! Yes I have advised on and installed many low EMI wired internet networks for homes and offices. Schools are finally showing interest.
Like the US, internet provision is dominated by a few larger players, BT/Plusnet, Sky, Talktalk, Virgin, EE. If using the phone network, all connections are provided by Open Reach. Nearly all are copper but there are a few high-speed fibre-to-the-premises lines. Now the way of providing 60Gb/s is fibre to a roadside cabinet and the last loop copper. Otherwise it is 10-20Gb/s or even slower in country areas with overhead cables. Most towns and villages have underground cabling – which have their own problems when they flood. Some of the cabling is in fact aluminium and they regularly corrode giving a distorted signal.
Up to now I have earthed the chassis of the terminal equipment i.e. computer which will, in turn, earth the shielding and the ethernet cabling. I have just installed a larger network of 25 double ethernet sockets and will be earthing the modem. For multiple devices I suspect earthing the modem is more likely to avoid induction loops in the earth wiring.
This cable earths the chassis of almost all computers to a UK plug:
https://beneficialenvironments.co.uk/product/computer-earthing-cable/
Modems upload revised software for protection of security and a few years ago it wasn’t unknown for the new software to reset the modem – and that could mean the wifi coming back on! Also, the BT Home Hub 3 (now on version 6) if you logged in to the user interface menu and opted to switch the wifi off – it switched the software off but the transmitters kept blatting away. You have to put the eco timer permanently off to switch the transmitters off. These days, they do switch when you set the wifi to off. However, it does take some technical courage for users to set up an ethernet to their computer and log in and switch the wifi off – because the fear is if they get it wrong they are cut off from the internet and possibly the modem and get stuck.
Use the standard modem: Because the help desks are so bad – poor spoken English, poor technical knowledge, I recommend using the supplied modems as the technical people then can’t blame you for faults because of using a non standard modem – which they usually do!!
Some modems from Sky and Virgin have a wifi on/off switch. (Mostly the modem on/off switch switches the whole modem off, stopping the wired internet, too.)
So I advise using our modem bag as a simple way of massively reducing the wifi, and protects against it coming back on again and it is a simple step to take until someone technical can disable the wifi.
https://beneficialenvironments.co.uk/product/modem-bag/
Note fire protection relies on the modem having the standard heat cut out. The cotton/stainless steel shielding does not readily catch fire because of the heat conductivity of the steel filament. Also the material breathes well and heat escapes by convection. Allow free air movement around the modem bag.
I am interested in why you want to reduce the speed of transmission. Some experts think that the lower RF’s are more bioactive than the higher ones. As far as I am aware in the uk all broadband is transmitted at ~600kHz in the copper coming into the house and the frequency from the modem on the in house ethernet will vary with transmission speed.
Some modem power supplies generate horrible dirty electricity and others stop working with the dirty electricity created by other poor quality power supplies.
Wired Device Kits (WDK’s): Connecting Iphones, Ipads, other laptops, tablets, and phone to ethernet involve many permutations of power supplies, adaptors and cables. I am working on a help sheet on my website to help people select the right combination.
Satellite Dishes: The twinax (“shotgun”) double coax cable up to the dish normally ahs a strong 50/60Hz electric field due to the non earthing of the outer braided conductor. the satellite driver box (UK – normally the “Sky Box”) need earthing to avoid this problem.
Apple TV tiny cube: Beware! these radiate strong Wifi signals. I have not found a way to provide the same functionality in a wired way? – do you know one?
Do feel free to send this out out to gather feedback and experience information.
Very best wishes,
Guy
Robyn
Hi Jeromy, thank you for your post, I came across it because I was concerned about the Ethernet cable that runs from the corner of my office where the modem is, and continues UNDERNEATH MY FEET/LEGS, on its way to the computer box (I don’t use a laptop). I don’t use wireless here in the house at all, so I thought I was all set, but the sensations in the feet and legs when I’m at my desk tell me otherwise.
My question: Is it enough to replace the Ethernet cable with the one you recommend in your post or should I move everything (modem, computer box, etc.) as far away from my desk/monitor as possible. The only problem with doing that is the mouse and keyboard need to plug into my computer box (the cables are too short to put them on the other side of the room).
I’ll be getting a Gauss tester (I’m assuming you’ve recommended one on this blog) to test for high EMF throughout my house, but in the meantime, I used an AM radio and was shocked to hear the intensity of the radio static/noise as I moved over to where I sleep (the outside electricity comes in there)! I moved the bed the other night and sleep is now peaceful. Amazing. I’m hoping to make similar changes in my office.
Thanks again. Your blog is excellent.
Robyn
Jeromy
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for paying attention to this. Glad this website is helping out.
A few ideas for you:
1.) You could get USB extensions for your mouse / keyboard such as these:
https://amzn.to/2tsd6M1
https://amzn.to/2MTZHV2
2.) I would use the CAT7 shielded cables I recommend above. They will cut down on the radiated EMI.
3.) As you have figured out, distance is always your best friend with EMF reduction. It is also the least expensive. Do what you can to keep your distance from computers, power sources and modems/routers.
4.) I would still employ the Ethernet ground adapter in point #4 above between your modem and computer. It will reduce the EMI being transmitted to where you sit at your keyboard.
5.) When it comes to EMF meters, it is more complicated than just having a basic gauss meter. Here is what I usually recommend:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
My book is a crash course on everything EMF and will help you understand what you can do in your own home more fully.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Robyn M Wright
Thank you, Jeromy, for your recommendations. They are immensely appreciated.
With the addition of an Ethernet ground adapter (EGA), it sounds like I will need TWO CAT7 shielded cables for each computer, as in addition to my PC, I have to use a laptop provided by a client for VPN reason. (I’ll be using a KVM switch so that only one keyboard/mouse is involved in my office though.)
Can you confirm this two EGAs per computer are needed?
And should I use a very short CAT7 cable between the modem and the EGA and then use a longer one between the adapter and the computer? So in my case, I need four.
I’ll be purchasing this one:
https://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
Regarding your book, is it available in print? I didn’t see it on Amazon. I’d love to buy an up-to-date book on EMFs. I’ve read Blake Levitt’s book (an excellent read), but it’s from 2007. A lot has changed since then. ??
I could always print your book, but thought I would see what you have available first.
Thanks again!
Robyn
Jeromy
Hi Robyn,
You just need one EGA per computer. One Ethernet cable goes to the adapater and then a second cable goes from the EGA to your computer.
I just have one EGA and use it for what ever device I am using at the time.
Also, my book is currently only available as a PDF/Ebook. You can purchase that and print it (80 pages). It’s a great book for beginners and people who already know a lot about EMFs!
Jeromy
Robyn M Wright
Hi Jeremy, I almost forgot that since I have a “wireless” house, I have been using an Ethernet cable to watch YouTube in my living room. This Ethernet cable runs about 40 feet from one end of the house to the other, and it runs through the basement (I’ll need to change it to CAT7).
Now that I understand the purpose of Ethernet ground adapters, it sounds like I need to buy three of them. Or am I looking at this the wrong way? Do you know if anyone has developed a ground adapter with multiple ports? I’ve done a some investigation on my end, but haven’t located on yet.
Thanks,
Robyn
Jeromy
Robyn,
As you see in my comment above, you only really need one Ethernet ground adapter for the device that you use the most / have close to you.
Just do the setup above (steps 3+4) for each device that you use a lot / often.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Jan
I have Comcast Xfinity for internet. I just added a Verizon copper wire landline phone. To save $10 a month I bundled it with their dsl internet which I don’t plan to use. Does having the dsl internet on my copper wire line have any negative consequences? Should I pay the extra $10 per month for a total of $64 per month, just to have a landline copper wire phone.
Jeromy
Hi Jan,
If you get the phone service through the Comcast modem, then you will have more EMI coming to your phone. This isn’t the best thing for human health.
I always recommend having your phone service be the traditional landline copper wire service if possible. Just use the Comcast modem for your internet and TV service.
If you must get the phone service through Comcast, then here is an analog phone setup that helps people who are electrically sensitive:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/analog-phone-system/
Jeromy
jacopo
Jeromy,
I live in Italy, my sickness started in dec 2012. Now I know it’s Encephalomielitis inflamation, lyme disease and leaky gut candida. Along with that i started being sensitive to high frequencies and chemicals a consequence and both a cause I think.
The video is what i hoped for..simple. Could you explain how to do a the ground adaptor myself? in the meantime A clip on the eth.wire to ground can be provisional useful ?
And what type of connection do i have to choose for provider, is FTTH into home not safe?
Thanks. Hope you’re doing fine.
Martijn
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for all this helpful and valuable information. I am using the 10/100 mbps Ethernet switch from TP-Link now to reduce EMI, but how does this help if the Ethernet switch itself is also ungrounded? It has a power supply like the router which is ungrounded. Will grounding the ethernet cable between the router and the Ethernet switch ground the entire setup? I also have a second switch by my computer, so will the internet cable that is plugged into that ground the second switch since the internet cable is coming from the grounded Ethernet switch by the router?
Sorry if you had to explain this in the past but I couldn’t find an answer on this specifically.
Friendly regards
Jeromy
Hi Martijn,
The slower switches and modems will help to reduce some of the higher frequency EMI created by gigabit-speed equipment. However, you are right that the lower-frequency power supply EMI from these devices need to be grounded between the last switch and your computer. This will reduce the lower frequency electric fields from coming to your computer.
To do this you will utilize the Ethernet Ground Adapter seen in point #4 in the article above. You will also need two shielded CAT-7 Ethernet cables as outlined above.
Hope this helps. Let me know if not.
All my best,
Jeromy
Jacopo
Hello Jeromy,
Sorry to bother, i tried to read the comments, so if i understand:
– there is no safe way to have a 1000 Mbps connection, is that right?
– I have an internet service fiber connection up to 100mbps but unfortunately the company gave me a Gigabit modem\router, which is needed to use the phone line by Voip technology, that gave very very high readings in electric fields:
http://assistenza.tiscali.it/internet-telefono/modem/technicolor-tg789vacv2/guida/panoramica-tg789vacv2/
I have grounded the eth. cable as you suggested and so lower freq. electric field measures dropped.
Now is the Tp link switch enough for the higher frequencies you call EMI? or do i have to think about changing my internet provider?
Thanks for the precious information.
Jacopo
Jeromy
Hi Jacopo,
You should be doing just fine with what you have. The real test is how you feel with this setup?
One way to test how much higher frequency EMI is coming to your computer on the Ethernet cable is to use an AM radio – the model I show here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-measure-dirty-electricity/
When you tune it on AM all the way to the right, you are detecting EMI/noise at about 2 MHz. This will show you if your Ethernet is filled with this higher frequency EMI that is ultimately coming to your computer and radiating.
Using a different modem and grounding your system to a copper wire outside (see the green video above) can help with this.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Sarah
I currently have Comcast internet and was thinking of switching to AT&T. What would you recommend?
I was going to purchase the equipment you recommended and want to see what you thought before I buy everything. If you do recommend AT&T, what equipment should I buy?
Thank you so much.
Jeromy
Hi Sarah,
Great question.
I would stick with Comcast and use the setup seen in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
AT&T is becoming more difficult to disable all the wireless. Plus, you can’t use your own equipment with AT&T. With Comcast you can, which gives you a lot more control over the wireless capabilities.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Adam
If I have an electrical ground in my home (outlets with 3 prongs). Do I still need to buy the wire with the gator clips? Or is there a way to just plug into one of the 3 prong outlets?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Adam,
You will just plug the Ethernet Ground Adapter into the 3-prong outlet. This will ground your system as long as your electrical system is properly grounded.
You only need the gator-to-gator clip and extension cord if you are going to ground the system to a copper stake outside.
Jeromy
Paul
Hi, I guess this free app could be very useful to evaluate WiFi EMF in our own home:
https://www.facebook.com/WiFi-Heatmap-248752699118263
You can draw a heatmap of RF signal and “see” the actual WiFi EMF around you.
Meg
Hi Jeromy, I am pretty green about all this so I want to make sure I understand. I have Verizon so do I start at step 3 with the two 25ft cables and then the ethernet ground adapter?
Jeromy
Hi Meg,
Those are excellent steps to take. However, is your Verizon modem/router emitting RF? That would be a problem. I would get the “Safe and Sound” RF meter seen here to double check this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
You want to minimize your RF (microwave) and EMI exposures. Here is an article where I outline how to eliminate your RF exposure:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Keep us posted.
Jeromy
Chris
Hello,
Why do we need a router at all if it is going to be hard wired?
Thanks
chris jensen
I have linksys DP 3008 12v modem with Linear brick cable
is this ok? or do I need to get that modem you recommend?
and again, why a router at all , if all hard wire?
I have no router,
thanks
C
Jeromy
Chris,
Most people need a router in order to run Ethernet cables to multiple computers/TVs.
A modem typically has just one Ethernet port, so the router (or an Ethernet switch) expands this.
A router doesn’t have to be wireless. It simply expands the number of possible IP addresses. You can get a wired router (like the TrendNet found in item #2 on the following article) or disable the WiFi on a Netgear router.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Jeromy
Rachel
I have one desktop computer that I’m trying to ground. I’ve read that it’s not necessary to use the ground adapter for desktop computers if they have a grounded plug. Do I follow the rest of the steps outlined above to cut down on EMI, (replacing the modem, ethernet switch, and using Cat6 or Cat 7 ethernet cords) and just skip the ground adapter and copper stake etc? Or are all of the steps unnecessary if I’m using a desktop PC? Thank you so much for your time!
Jeromy
Hi Rachel,
I have not used or tested a plugged-in desktop computer in five years, so my answer is limited. I always use a grounded laptop on battery power with the Ethernet system grounded to reduce the electric field exposure. I am currently typing on a laptop with 0.2 V/m of electric field exposures.
First thing is that if you have a properly grounded power adapter and electrical socket, this should certainly help. However, you want to test that the electric fields at your computer keyboard are low ~ below 5 V/m. I would use the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B seen in Package #2 here to test this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
If this is the case, then using the Ethernet ground adapter is not necessary. Using a lower speed modem and shielded Ethernet cords will cut down on your EMI exposure though.
Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.
Jeromy
Rachel
Thank you very much for your insight! I’ll proceed in that direction. I don’t yet have the meter you recommend, but I do have the AM radio and tested that. Wow–talk about noisy. I’d be surprised if I was below 5 V/m. Thank you again! I’m very grateful to you.
Lu
Hello – Is there actually a service to help people go wired and ditch WiFi?
We live in San Francisco.
Thank you!
LC
Ana
JEROMY, thank you very much!!!
Ele
Hello Jeromy,
I have the ME 3851A meter and am getting different readings over and on the keyboard. I know you are supposed to hold the ground ports but this results in the highest readings of around 25 v/m over the keyboard and 160 v/m next to the monitor. I have a desktop setup.
If I don’t hold it at all and just place it on the keyboard, it reads as low as 2 v/m nearest me and ~ 10v/m nearest the monitor. Bucking this trend, it measures 18v/m if placed on the table between me and the keyboard.
Holding it but not touching the ground ports results in a ~30% lower reading than when holding and touching them.
So just wondering – is it accurate to go with the reading when I am touching the ports?
Also, when I run the radio over the cables there is static over the router and static where the cables enter the computer, but in between results in improved reception so that I can clearly hear the radio stations. What does this improved reception indicate?
Thanks!
Ele
Jeromy
Hi Ele,
It sounds like you are not using your meter properly. I typically have the ME3851A grounded when testing Electric Fields. See this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-8PQyQku20
You can ground it using a similar process to what I do in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUdEYBIVz1Q
If you would like me to walk you through how to ground your Ethernet setup and properly test it, we could have a Skype conversation. You can book this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
james gewanter
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you so much for your work!
Unfortunately, my chromebook laptop does not have an Ethernet plug (chromebook), what is the simplest way for me to wire my chromebook to my modem?
Will this work: https://www.stetzerizer-us.com/USB-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-with-Built-in-Ground-Cord–Grounded_p_161.html
Secondly, if I have two modems in the house, can i use ethernet on one whilst keeping the other one wireless so my friends can use their laptops wirelessly?
Thirdly, I’ve read that if your laptop has a three prong power outlet you don’t need to ground is this true? (http://www.emfwise.com/electric.php)
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Your work is so important.
Jeromy
Hi James,
Grateful you find the website to be useful.
To your questions:
1.) Correct – the Grounded Ethernet to USB adapter will work well:
https://www.stetzerizer-us.com/USB-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-with-Built-in-Ground-Cord–Grounded_p_161.html?a_aid=esh
I would ground it like I do in the green video above (to the ground outside). This is because there can be EMI on your electrical ground. Watch this video to see how I detect this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zf7N3eOf0co
2.) You could just have one modem that even has the wireless on. As long as you are far enough away (usually 50-100 feet), you won’t be getting much RF from the modem/router. You could also shield the RF easily at this distance or use a Router Guard to reduce the RF emissions:
https://smartmeterguard.com/products/router-guard?afmc=34
From that one modem, you will ground the EMI as I explain above. Then at your computer the RF and EMI will be much lower.
3.) I never use a laptop when it is charging. The electric fields are higher. I always use battery power (and cycle through laptops if my battery doesn’t have the life I need). I also ground the Ethernet, which grounds the laptop.
Thanks for your questions. Hope this helps. I will soon publish an article on setting up Fiber Optics in your home. That will further clarify what can be done for a low-EMF internet connection.
Jeromy
James Gewanter
Hi Jeromy,
For some reason, some of this confuses me. If I go ahead and buy this usb to ethernet adapter with ground cord and assuming I am a safe distance from my router and my laptop is not plugged in, what percentage (roughly) decrease in general emf will I have?
Can that suffice? I am trying to keep this as simple as possible.
Thanks!
Jeromy
James,
That should help a lot. You really only know by testing with EMF meters, but the main points are:
1.) Don’t use Wi-Fi
2.) Ground your Ethernet system
Then you will have reduced two of the primary EMF components related to your computing.
My best,
Jeromy
tracie
Hi Jeromy –
We live in Los Altos Hills. Can you recommend a company to come to our home to evaluate and correct the radiation? We have two teenagers who use multiple devices to do homework. Our home is wired but they insist on wifi so they can get access everywhere on everything. It’s too much for me to try to fix myself. I’d love to have an expert come to us.
Jeromy
Hi Tracie,
Just sent you an email with a good recommendation. Indeed, having a consultant come to your home is typically one of the best first steps you can take.
Thanks for asking.
Jeromy
james gewanter
Hi,
Unfortunately, at the moment I won’t be able to ground my ethernet connection so my question is roughly speaking, how much is my emf radiation decreased by an ethernet connection vs a wireless one? Not to mention I will be using a wired keyboard to provide distance from the laptop and me.
Thanks for all that you do for the EMF community!!
Jeromy
James,
Indeed, an Ethernet based system (even if not grounded) is way better than a WiFi based laptop/computer.
Hope this helps. All my best to you.
Jeromy
Magnolia Moher
Thank you very much for all of the useful information that you posted for us all, it is greatly appreciated and valued. I have an AT&T modem. Is the router required in order to create a low-EMF environment? In another video I had seen someone mention a network switch. Is that the same as a router?
Thank you!!!
Jeromy
Hi Magnolia,
Thanks for asking.
My first question is do you have the WiFi disabled on the AT&T modem? This can be tricky to do and you need to test that it was actually done. The AT&T modem is a powerful WiFi emitter, so be sure to disable this.
If you don’t have an RF meter to test things, get the “Safe and Sound” seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
The AT&T modem should act as a router (allowing many devices to connect to it). For an Ethernet Switch, they look like this:
https://amzn.to/2oE8L5D
Hope this helps. Keep in touch.
Jeromy
Johann Nepgen
Is it not possible to network a home using fibre? That would obviate most of the above problems.
Johann
Cape Town
Jeromy
Johann,
Thanks for your question.
You are partially correct. Having the fiber optic link between your modem and computer will create a break between you and any EMI coming in on your cable connection. However, you still have the EMI created by the fiber converters (both the power source and the high speed data conversion). When I initially did this in my home, the EMI was even greater at my computer than with Ethernet.
There is a way around this and I am about to publish an article about fiber detailing what I have found.
Stay tuned.
Jeromy
David
Jeromy,
More and more devices are coming out that are wifi only. They will not allow a wired connection. Also, to accommodate phones that have no data connection, only wifi, some type of wifi broadcast might me necessary.
Is there a very low EMF output device that can broadcast wifi to a device that is within a specific proximity? I’m picturing a wired device that is set next to a laptop and will only allow connection within a very short couple of feet.
Seems like it might work like a cell phones hot spot connection. However, I imagine a phone hot spot likely broadcast high EMF’s as well.
If such a device doesn’t exist, do you, as an engineer perceive that one could be built?
Thank you,
David
Jeromy
Hi David,
For now, nearly every device that comes out can still be connected through a wired connection. Even an iPhone / iPad can be if you have the right attachments:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-wire-an-ipad/
There really is no safe way to connect using wireless. Even if you use one of the “eco-WiFi” routers (such as this: https://www.jrseco.com/pcat/low-radiation-wifi-routers-jrs-eco-wifi/), the device you use will still be radiating at normal/full power in your hands/on your lap.
Making lower power RF antennas is very difficult and nearly impossible if you want the technology to actually work. This is part of why the safety guidelines don’t protect biology. They are mostly there to allow the wireless industry to grow/innovate while giving the public false reassurance they are being protected.
Jeromy
Janine
Thank you so much for all of your practical advice. It is so helpful for those of us who have limited technology skills.
I have figured out how to turn the WiFi signal on the router off and have my laptop connected via Ethernet. I have also disabled the WiFi in the network settings to turn off the laptop antennae.
There is still some RF where the ethernet cable plugs in (0.02 mW/m2). Is there anything I can do to remediate that?
What is my bigger issue is that when I do the same things to my husband’s laptop, it still is emitting high RF (1-2 mW/m2). Any ideas of what to do to decrease it? He uses it on his lap and the highest readings are at the right front so I am sure he is frying his insides. It is a Lenovo ThinkPad. I can provide more details if that would be helpful.
Looking for any assistance you might be able to provide.
Janine
Jeromy
Hi Janine,
My first guess is that his laptop still has the Bluetooth on. Can you double check this? If your RF meter has a sound function, you can easily tell what is WiFi, Bluetooth, Cellular, etc.
If that doesn’t do the trick, send me pics or videos of what you are measuring. We can do this via an email consult or a Skype/phone consult. You can find this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
You should be able to have a completely wireless free home once you get to the bottom of this source.
Jeromy
David
If you wouldn’t mind, would you please answer these questions for me about 5G?
Are millimeter waves being broadcast up to 60GHz (EHF) more hazardous to our health than current 4G?
Is it true that the 5G signal has a very short range, something around 500 feet, therefore would necessitate mini cell towers on telephone poles all around my neighborhood?
Have you seen this MD testify before the Michigan legislature?
https://youtu.be/CK0AliMe-KA
Thank you,
David
Jeromy
David,
I just sent you a personal email on this.
My best,
Jeromy
Martin
I was with TalkTalk, but their router did not have the option to switch off the WiFi even when the computer Bluetooth and WiFi were switched off, even when an ethernet cable was used to connect the computer to the router, but I have changed to Sky now and I can use their router with ethernet cable connected to my computer, and with the help of their engineer over the phone he told me how to enter a code online on my computer to disable the Sky router WiFi function, which would have continued otherwise even with ethernet cable connection.
Danielle
Hi, Thank you so much for your website. I have been taking steps to reduce radiation, however living in an apartment in a major city it is challenging. My roommate refuses to shut off wi-fi since we have subpar cell service so I have tried to hard wire whatever I can to reduce the amount of technologies on the wi-fi. We have Google Fiber (modem/router all in one), and my question is, if I purchase a router cage for this device will I at least be able to reduce the amount of circulating radiation in the apartment? Keeping the wifi on seems safer than purchasing a small cell tower for the apartment, am I right in my thinking? I also discontinued the 1000 mbs service and downgraded to 100. Thank you again!
Here is some information on the box: https://support.google.com/fiber/answer/2446100?hl=en
https://support.google.com/fiber/answer/4584585?hl=en
Jeromy
Hi Danielle,
Glad you are paying attention to this.
You are in a tough situation. There is little difference between the Google Fiber modem RF and a mini-cell tower in your home. I do know from other clients that the Google Fiber modem is a powerful WiFi hotspot.
Your options:
1.) A Router Guard – see #5 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
2.) Swapping out the Google Fiber modem for an Eco-wireless version. See here:
https://www.jrseco.com/predir.php?p=jj≺=jrs-eco-wifi-en
3.) Getting a new roommate. 🙂
4.) Getting a bed canopy so that you are much less affected when sleeping (the most important time):
https://www.emfanalysis.com/bed-canopies/
5.) Finally, you are really flying blind without a RF meter. I would get the “Safe and Sound” seen on this page. It’s just $135 with the discount.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Danielle
Thank you Jeromy,
You’ve confirmed what I was thinking. I purchased a cornet meter and the google router lets off the same RF as the microwave oven does (while running). Very scary!
I have been waiting for the JRS eco routers to be restocked, as the higher speed ones are sold out, so in the meantime I think a cage is the best option.
Jeromy
Hi Danielle,
Indeed, the Google modem/router combo is very powerful. I have had several people contact me who became electrically sensitive after having them installed.
I would get a different service provider where you can turn off the WiFi completely (Comcast is good for this). The Router Guard helps some, but not enough if you are within 10-20 feet of the modem.
JRS should be releasing their new models soon if you want to go that route:
https://www.jrseco.com/predir.php?p=jj&pr=jrs-eco-wifi-en
Jeromy
Jerolyn Janssen
Hi Jeromy:
I haven’t heard you talk about televisions. I can’t watch TV because of the Bluetooth that operates the channel changer. What can ES people do to make the TV more safe? Are. there particular models that are better? Can the cable box for TV be shielded?
Please advise.
Jeromy
Hi Jerolyn,
I show how to disable the WiFi on a smart TV here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnW1_hM3iO8
Your comment is the first I have head of a remote control using Bluetooth. I would take the system back and get one without Bluetooth (a normal remote control) and that you have the ability to disable all wireless functions.
You need to have a RF meter to test this. Get the “Safe and Sound” seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
So many of the Smart Home / Smart TV systems are extremely high emitters of RF. You just don’t want them in your home if you are ES. Here are a few videos showing this:
Amazon Echo – Smart Home RF Emissions: https://youtu.be/EsHqEzjqshE
Google Home – Microwave Emissions: https://youtu.be/W2OZX-LSkak
Apple TV – Smart Home RF Emissions: https://youtu.be/cE_hMjllftQ
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Linda
Jeromy , I’m electromagnetic hyper sensitive. How does Verizon Fios compare to Comcast wireless EMF’s? Fios just came through to our town. Thanks.
Jeromy
Hi Linda,
I have not had experience with Verizon Fios yet. With all ISP’s, you want to ask for a modem that doesn’t have any WiFi within in it (Comcast has one model like this). If that is not possible, then you determine which non-WiFi modem you can buy yourself that will integrate with their system.
You will need a basic RF meter to test to make sure the WiFi is off with everything. Get the “Safe and Sound” seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
I summarize how to set up a wired internet system in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Keep in touch with what you find.
Jeromy
Jerolyn janssen
Jeromy:
Thanks for your links about television. I was just guessing that the remote used Bluetooth……I didn’t know that for a fact. I was just sitting at a friends house by her TV that was plugged in but not on, and it was bothering me, and I thought that the culprit was Bluetooth. I watched. the video that you posted on Youtube about wiring the TV to the internet. I was surprised that you could watch a TV…..being ES and all. Don’t those big screens on the Smart TV’s give off electrical fields? Are there any particular brands of TV’s and models that are safer for ES people? Is it better to get a smaller screen as opposed to a large one?
Shelley
Thank you so much for sharing this information. I can’t wait to implement some of your suggestions.
I am curious though, we are currently house hunting and I found a nice property that has maybe 1 cell tower in a 4 mile radius (a rare thing to find in my searching thus far) and my question to you is most of the web services offered are DSL, satellite stuff would that be better or worse off for someone who is emf sensitive to use that service as net is needed for school and etc…. I was thinking the trade off for hardly any towers and having a satellite link would be better than living in town which ranges from 40-80 towers in a 4 mile radius.
Jeromy
Hi Shelley,
Great questions. The truthful answer is that it depends, and that the answer is much more complicated than a simple few sentences or paragraphs would do justice.
If you wish to discuss on the phone or Skype (I have a lot of experience with families that use companies like HughesNet), this is how I work:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
I also get into this within my book:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Jerolyn Janssen
Hi Jeromy:
You have commented before that you haven’t been able to use Apple computers for a long time because they are more EMF-EMI prone. I posed the question to the customer service of an EMF product retailer, and they said that they get a lot of calls about a wireless signal that is coming from their customers’ Mac computers even though they have turned off the wireless controls. I am here to support that this is TRUE. I had not metered my MacBook Pro because I had the wireless turned off. So I metered the MacBook Pro while on, and. sure enough, there was a wireless signal emanating from it that registered ‘Moderate’ on the Safe and Sound meter. I checked my wireless settings and they were still turned off. So it appears that they have loaded something on my computer that BYPASSES my controls. The signal is not consistently present, because I keep checking. And, of course, without a meter, the public doesn’t know it’s there. I often get a ‘Moderate’ setting on the meter when I walk by someone with a Smartphone turned on. That got me thinking that, since I have turned off my wireless, they are searching to find and communicate with other products in my house. I don’t have anything that they could access…….no Smartphone, remote speakers, security system etc.
Do you have any thoughts on this?
Jeromy
Hi Jerolyn,
I have never seen a wireless signal that couldn’t be turned off. It’s either WiFi or Bluetooth, and both can be disabled on any computer/phone. It may be a harder with new Apple devices, because they want the devices to be connected to the internet all the time, but it is still possible.
The reason MacBooks are so much worse is the metal cases, the screens and the EMI created from the Ethernet to USB-C adapters. I would never advise that an ES person use an Apple product.
Jeromy
jerolyn Janssen
Hi Jeromy:
Is there some reason that you didn’t include the Gigahertz Solutions ME 3030B as one of your recommended meters?
Jerolyn
Pam
Hi Jeromy,
Quick questions. I have a simple setup with DSL connect to Netgear Modem. Do you have a recommendation on what’s best, the TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch or the TRENDnet 4-Port Broadband Router that you have links for on this site? Would they essentially provide the same purpose?
Jeromy
Hi Pam,
Thanks for asking.
If your Netgear Modem acts as a router (meaning it provides many IPs so that multiple computers can connect) then the 5-port Ethernet Switch is fine. However, if you still need to split the signal, then you would want to go with the TrendNet router.
The TrendNet will work in both cases, so will be the easiest solution.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Jessica
Is there a modem/router that has an off/on switch for WiFi and also has a telephone jack? I need the telephone service through Spectrum for my employer. Thanks!
Jeromy
Hi Jessica,
Great question.
I would get this non-WiFi modem that works with Spectrum and has a phone jack:
https://amzn.to/2HNmfqy
I would then add in this Netgear router that has an on/off switch for WiFi (if you need WiFi occasionally):
http://amzn.to/2FshVdf
I lay out the specific steps here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
JH
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks a lot for sharing all this valuable and helpful information!
(I know this question is not directly related to this article, but I am not sure where to post it and I hope for your understanding.)
In your recommended meters list (https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/) there are the following two devices. But from what I can understand reading the specs, they seem to me kind of overlapping (a newbie here…).
My question is, what exactly is the ratio to have both of them? Wouldn’t’ it be a similar result having only one of them, e.g. ME 3851A as it can measure magnetic fields as well?
(And by the way would there be any substantial practical benefit of buying ME 3951A instead of 3851A?)
“…
Magnetic Fields: Alpha Labs UHS2 3-Axis Gauss Meter ($279)
Electric Fields: Gigahertz Solutions ME 3851A Single Axis
…”
Thanks!
Jeromy
JH,
Great question.
Here is my reasoning for advising that you get both meters.
The USH2 is the best Gauss meter at a consumer price. It is 3-Axis (automatically calculates it for you) and is very accurate/sensitive. It’s my go-to meter for magnetic fields.
I then use / recommend the ME 3851A for Electric field measurement. While it does also measure magnetic fields, it only does so as a single-axis meter. You need to move it in all 3 axis and do a calculation to get the right measurement. Thus, it’s really easy to miss a field.
I do find the ME 3830B, 3851A and 3951A to be great for electric fields. I would get the one of those that you can afford.
I no longer use / recommend the body voltage method, which is why I recommend the digital Electric field measurement. I do this with the meter properly grounded for more accuracy.
Hope this makes sense and helps with your decision process.
Jeromy
Alan Cook
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks for the extremely informative article.
I currently own a Arris model TM822G however my ISP upgraded my internet connection speed to 300 mpbs and requested I replace my previous modem with a Arris TM1602 to access the full speed. Do you think the Arris TM1602 will create a lot more EMF?
Also, regarding routers, you mentioned to “stay away from high-bandwidth devices (1 gigabit and above).. they create an incredible amount of low and high frequency EMI on the Ethernet cables”
I already own Asus TM-AC1900 (Dual-Band Gigabit Router). It has a dedicated on/off WiFi button. I turn the WiFi off and connect to internet via Ethernet. Do you think this setup will create high EMI around the Ethernet cable (which is spread around most of the house)?
In other words, do you recommend I buy a new router and keep my old modem or can I upgrade the modem (to TM1602) and keep my old router (Asus TM-AC1900)?
Thanks!
Jeromy
Hey Alan,
Great questions.
First, I would do your best to keep a slower internet speed. We don’t need anything more than 50 or 100 mbps, even for Netflix and Amazon streaming. Can you get a slower package like this? It should even save you money.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Fiber-Optics-Vast-Services-Arrow.jpg
Then you can keep your older, slower modem (TM822G) and your older router. These will likely work just fine even with faster internet service. Often, the ISP’s are just giving you the same line they tell everyone. This keeps people updating their equipment so there are less technical problems in homes (but often more EMF).
The TM1602 isn’t a bad option either. You can get this wired modem online as well (so you don’t pay a monthly rental fee):
https://amzn.to/2YyTQcO
For a router, I would get the JRS Eco WiFi Router if you are ever going to use wireless:
https://www.jrseco.com/predir.php?p=jj&pr=jrs-eco-wifi-en
If you won’t need wireless, then simply get the TRENDnet wired router:
https://amzn.to/2JqlGkE
As always, you are not really going to know how the EMI is until you measure it with an AM radio and an electric field meter. I list these here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Alan Cook
Jeromy, thanks for your reply.
1) It’s a little odd but my ISP is actually offering me a lower price for the faster speed.
2) It seems like that a higher internet speed will automatically create more EMF regardless of the router/modem I use (In other words, even with TRENDnet)?
3) I do plan on using wireless occasionally. Will the TRENDnet wired router emit much less radiation (compared to TM-1900) when WiFi is turned off?
Thanks
Jeromy
Alan,
Higher speed internet does not have to create more EMI, but it often does. It just depends on the equipment you are using and whether your system from the street connection in to you computer can handle the extra bandwidth. More bandwidth = more EMI. Bandwidth becomes EMI and is transmitted on copper wiring (cable, telephone, ethernet).
The TRENDnet router is a wired-only router. So, if you need occasional WiFi, get the JRS Eco router I mention above.
You will ultimately only know what EMI is in on your system by measuring. Every home / system is different. I just try to provide some basic, universal examples that tend to be similar in each situation.
Jeromy
Alexandra Laws
Hi Jeromy,
Which is best, a 4g modem or a internet dish on my roof connected to a modem?
Thanks – I’m setting up a new home and these are my options.
Jeromy
Hi Alexandra,
It’s best to not have a satellite internet dish on your home. I would put it out away from the home.
I have some good info/options with companies like HughesNet and have some ideas on the 4G modem as well. If you want to do a consult (email or phone), I can send this to you. Here is that option:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Meredith
Hi Jeromy,
I have internet coming in through a cable and there are two DSL 1 and DSL 2 that plug into the modem or router (not sure which it is). I requested the option to support wired internet only and no wifi, and so I believe that means I have a modem. The ethernet connects from the modem to my computer – as it goes.
I am wondering if I need to get that additional router you mention above? Does it simply depend on how high the frequencies are coming from the router that the internet provider gave upon setup? The extra one could help reduce the flow, in addition to the grounding you explain? Or do I just need the grounding of the ethernet?
Thanks for your help!!
Jeromy
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for asking.
The main thing to check here is whether the modem they gave you is emitting WiFi. That is the primary concern. You would need a basic RF meter like the Safe and Sound Classic seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
You get the 5% discount with my distributor code EMFA at checkout:
https://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/SafeandSoundRFDetector.aspx
Once you have a modem that has no WiFi, then you only need a router if you are connecting more than one device. If it is just your computer, then no need for a router.
If you do need a wired Router, check out the TRENDnet one I mention here in Step #2:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Once these bases are covered, then you can ground the Ethernet connection per the instructions in the article above.
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Loraine Webb
Hi Jeromy.. Thank you! I’m inquiring as to your first directive, “If your cable internet provider is any company except AT&T or Verizon,” Does this mean your protocols are not compatible with AT&T or Verizon? Must I switch carriers? Thanks again!
Jeromy
Hi Loraine,
It is possible to have a low-EMF set up with AT&T. You would follow the instructions here, along with the protocol above:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-disable-att-wifi/
I have not worked with Verizon internet service yet. They may only have a WiFi option.
Companies like Comcast, Cox and local providers allow you to purchase your own non-WiFi modem that is compatible with their system. That gives you more flexibility. However, with the process above with AT&T, you can ultimately have a good system with them as well.
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Sev
Hi,
Does the cat of the ethernet cable has an influence on the EMF emissions? I have Cat 6 and I wonder if a Cat 7 will be worse.
Thanks!
Jeromy
Hi Sev,
Both CAT 6 and 7 are fine, as long as they are shielded. Here are some great CAT 6 shielded cables:
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet-LAN-Cables_c_59.html?a_aid=esh
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Chris
Jeromy,
Curious why the ethernet ground adapter needs to be used when we are using shielded CAT7 cables. Isn’t the purpose of these cables to eliminate the “high frequency EMI that travels along your Ethernet cable to your computer”?
Jeromy
Hi Chris,
The shielded CAT7 cables will stop any EMI from radiating from the cables. However, they will still conduct that EMI to your computer (through the metal end connections of the cables). This is why you need to ground the Ethernet system before it reaches your device.
Jeromy
Meredith
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for this great article.
I have a 10/100 2Wire DSL modem that has a 3 prong wall adapter. Do I still need to ground my ethernet connection?
Are there any issues with using an ethernet-usb adapter?
Jeromy
Hi Meredith,
The 3-prong plug should help. However, there will be EMI on your electrical ground that can get on your Ethenet system. This is why I like to use an actual copper wire outside.
I have also found that some Ethernet-to-USB adapters create EMI or make the EMI component higher at the computer. You will have to test this to find out for the specific product you have. I would use this one, which can be grounded:
https://www.stetzerizer-us.com/USB-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-with-Built-in-Ground-Cord–Grounded_p_161.html?a_aid=esh
The ME3830B meter here is good to test the E-Fields. I like using an AM radio as well to test the noise being transmitted on our Ethernet system.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Betty Gaynor
Hi Jeromy,
While ordering the TP-Link 5 Port (no 4 Port shown), there is a Prop 65 Warning that it has chemicals that causes cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Thank you.
John
Hey Jeromy,
Is grounding the EMI absolutely necessary? The reason I ask is that where I live it will not be possible to take that step (living in an apartment) so will I still see benefit in doing the other steps without grounding?
Thanks
John
Jeromy
Hi John,
Thanks for your question. I would just ground to your outlet and the electrical safety ground in this situation. I should help some provided there isn’t a lot of EMI on the neutral/ground wires.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Brandy
Hello Jeromy,
Weird experience – Dirty power question!
We had a modem and Netgear router with Wifi off. Now we got a new device which is both modem and router in one. The wifi has been switched off remotely from service provider as it does not have a button like the other had.
In both of these setups, if they are on all night, I wake up feeling awful with pains all over. When I turned off power strip that powers the router in the eve, the symptoms disappeared.
Router is not in the bedroom, and there’s a closet room in between. There’s no internet cables in bedroom. There are no cables at all in the walls near the bed (solid logs). Bedroom is on different electrical circuit than office where routers are.
My Cornet ED88T plus measures some static close up to modem/router at HF frequency. There are average Efields and AC Magnetic (in fact way lower magnetic than other power strips, because power strip has surge filter.)
Any idea, what can be the reason to the EMF problem in the bedroom?
Btw when using computer connected to the Ethernet I don’t feel no problems. It is grounded to outlet and has external keyboard.
Do you know of any other model that is lower EMF like you wrote, but… how can it come into the bedroom is the question. Maybe under the floor, there is open space. I don’t measure no high LF in bedroom and HF is less than 1 microwatt/m2
So I turn off routers and it’s great, but in the morning it goes on wifi for 5 min while it boots up, then turns off wifi, Would window screening (metal) work to shield that.
Thanks for any advice from anyone!
Jeromy
Hi Brandy,
I would just keep things off at night if that is working for you.
If you set up a Skype/phone session with me, I can walk you through the process I use with an AM radio to determine if there is EMI coming from your modem. Typically cable modems are quite noisy and this could be your issue.
Here is where you can book a session:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Brandy
Hi Jeromy, well I just moved the router further from the wall and shielded with some alu, not super tight, then found out there’s a ton of dirty electricity on all our circuits. So when I turn off half of the circuits it’s all good, even though some other inhabitants gets a little off on that. Anyway, thanks for your site.
Our new fiber optic ISP does not require router at all, just an ethernet switch. But the ones you recommend in this article, don’t have firewall do they..? Also fyi it says “gigabit” once I click on Amazon link. Can you recommend a brand that’s not gigabit and possibly already grounded? If that exists.
Jeromy
Hi Brandy,
Check out the Netgear router and TP-Link switch in steps 2 & 3 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
That’s what I would go with (or the JRS Eco WiFi Router if you have the funds).
My best,
Jeromy
swebb
Jeromy,
Working as a consultant for a very large company, I was seated directly below a Cisco wifi router. I put in a request for a seating change to a nearby vacant cubicle, but was pretty much laughed at and then terminated. I simply based my request on published studies and a general recommendation of 2 meters or 10 feet from any antennae and the fact that after 2 months I was experiencing headaches and insomnia. What would you say to the company?
Jeromy
Steve,
When I first became electrically sensitive and worked in Silicon Valley, I got letters from two MD’s stating that I experienced headaches near WiFi routers. My company allowed me to determine the best location for my desk. No questions asked. There are disability / ADA issues if a firm does not comply with an MD’s orders.
I would read this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/medical-doctors/
Also know that nearly 250 MD’s got CME credit for learning about EMFs at 1440 Multiversity last weekend. I spoke there as well. Doctors are starting to understand this issue.
https://emfconference.com/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Joseph Jungbauer
Hi Jeromy,
As a non tech savvy computer user, utilizing a high speed wifi arris router three feet from where I sit, I was shocked when I learned about RF and electro-magnetic fields and the damage they can do to humans. I bought a Trifield meter and it shows peak RF levels of 2.391 mW/M2. It drops off considerably as I move away from the router.
These figures mean nothing to me, and after searching for hours on the internet, I cannot find anyone willing to give safe figures for exposure levels of RF or magnetic or electrical figures. Do you know of anyone who publishes such data?
Also, are there companies that install and set up hard wired internet systems? Again after much searching, I cannot find a single company willing to set up a low emf system in my home.
Thanks for your wonderful insights!
Jeromy
Joseph,
Thanks for writing. Indeed, it can be shocking at first. But, this realization is likely great for your health in the long term.
First, I wouldn’t be using the TriField for RF. It’s great for magnetic fields, but not for RF and electric fields. Here is a pic of the meters I use:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Recommended-EMF-Meters-2019-Safe-and-Sound-Pro-Alpha-Labs-UHS2.jpg
Here are the meters I recommend:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Second, the values seen on the meters in the pic above are about what you want in your home. The first one measure RF very accurately and is at 1 microwatt per meter squared. Yes, micro, not milli. If you are consistently below 100 uW/m^2 (microwatts per meter squared) in your home, that is pretty good for a non-electrically sensitive / non-chronically ill person. However, your exposure now is off the charts. . .
Third, start with this article to get the ball rolling on a wired internet system. Take it step by step. In a month or two, your home will be much healthier.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Debbie Comeau
In your opinion, is a good body voltage meter an accurate gauge of the electromagnetic pollution in a room?
Thank You.
Greg
Thanks for sharing a lot of good information!
I am looking to install Comcast internet, tv and phone in my home. I am looking at:
Router: https://www.jrseco.com/p/jrs-eco-100-wifi-d2-on-asus/
Modem: https://www.arris.com/surfboard/products/cable-modems/ (any benefit of going with a higher model than SB6141?
Will I need an additional modem for phone or a combination modem like one of these?
https://www.arris.com/surfboard/products/xfinity-subscribers/ (if so, any recommendations?)
Are there recommended low emf tv modems that can be purchased instead of renting a box from Comcast? If not, do you have recommendations for tv box shielding?
Thanks!
Ken
Dear Sir,
At the moment we have a wireless internet connection in our home. I have no real problems with wifi as you can’t avoid it anyway, unless I’m physically at the computer. I will get restless legs and tire easily. I’m trying to figure out how to connect my laptop to an ethernet cable without such a cable running through our living room. I have one upstairs but prefer using the laptop downstairs.
I was thinking about buying a wifi-repeater with an ethernet dock to run a small ethernet cable from it. Would this be an effective solution in reducing wifi radiation from my computer? Also would you be able to shut off wifi transmission on a repeater to get the signal running through the cable only so as to reduce unnecessary exposure?
Thanks in any case.
Best regards
Ken
Christopher
Hello. I was wondering if you have any experience with Wi-Fi router shields. They are essentially metal boxes that you place your router in to lower the radiation levels. I’m considering this as an option. I currently have Wi-Fi. I am also needing to reconsider my provider. I was wondering if you have any thoughts on wired grounded Ethernet vs Wi-Fi with a shield box. Thank you!
James Gerrity
Hi Jeromy!
So I am presuming based on your description that simply replacing an unshielded ethernet cable with a shielded one alone won’t really make any significant difference in potential EMF output? The shielded cables would need to be grounded and set up in the configuration outlined here in order to attenuate any potential EMF? I do not have a meter so I am not even sure if I have a problem. I have a Verizon dual band router at 2.4 or 5.0 Ghz. I usually just opt for the lower bandwidth though that is clearly a lot higher than what you recommend. It’s frustrating as I just presumed that any ethernet connection with WiFi switched off would simply be much safer on its own.
Best,
James
Jeromy
Hi James,
Great question.
First, normal wired (Ethernet) internet is way healthier than WiFi. You want to disable the WiFi in your router and at your computer (Airplane mode or Airport turned off).
This is where I discuss that: https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
However, WiFi is only half the equation. The other half is the EMI that travels on the unshielded or shield Ethernet cables. This can be just as problematic for electrically sensitive people. This is why I encourage the setup in the article above. Grounding the shielded ethernet system to the outside will almost eliminate the electric fields and EMI coming from your router.
Here is a video where I show this:
How to Ground Your Ethernet Connection: https://youtu.be/bMlWSPXb6Zc
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks so much, Jeromy!
Unfortunately, I have a Verizon FiOS setup and their modem is fixed so cannot be replaced by another. Their modem and routers are separate units. I only need to use a desktop computer and a laptop computer which would extend from the router through ethernet cables. What I want to do is ground the Verizon router so as to eliminate any EMI “dirty” energy from being transmitted through the cables and, subsequently, through my devices.
What is the best way to simply ground the Verizon router as it seems like that is primarily what I need to do?
I noticed these kits but they purportedly ground each connection but not seemingly the router itself
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
Thanks so much for all of your efforts and for translating your sensitivities and the suffering they caused you into a means whereby you have been able to help not only yourself but so many others in the process.
Best,
James
Jeromy
Hi James,
I appreciate the kudos on my work. It’s wonderful to be of service in this way.
I did some research and contacted Verizon to get more information on their Fios system. Their optical network terminal (ONT, which is the modem for fiber systems) does not emit WiFi. It is a purely wired device. This is a good thing. However, the EMI component from these devices is also quite important.
They also provide a Verizon router (either a Fios Home Router or Fios Quantum Gateway Router) that has always-on WiFi, for which you also pay a monthly rental fee. However, you CAN replace this with your own router, which will allow you to disable the WiFi or only have it on in the rare cases you need WiFi. I confirmed this with Verizon today and the following article explains how you can add in your own dual-band router:
https://www.groundedreason.com/use-router-fios-internet/
I would definitely install your own router so that you don’t have needless WiFi exposure in your environment. I list good routers with simple On/Off buttons for WiFi in Step #2 of this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Then I would normally recommend that you ground the Ethernet connection between the router and your device (laptop, iPad, etc). However, a desktop computer is already grounded. So, the Ethernet ground adapter will not be quite as beneficial.
It will, however, help with some of the higher frequency EMI that comes from your router and Verizon ONT device. Using the shielded CAT-7 cables and Ethernet Ground Adapter listed in Steps #3 and #4 in the article above will provide additional benefit.
I would also consider not connecting your home phone system (the copper wires throughout your home) to the ONT unit. This device is likely a big EMI source and anything connected to it will conduct and radiate that EMI. This is will likely be the subject of a future article on ONT units. For now, if possible, only have your internet router connected to the unit. If you need phone and cable TV, consider connecting them only when you are actually using them.
In summary, it looks like swapping out the Verizon router for your own is the low-hanging fruit for Verizon Fios customers. I would do this right away and then add in the Ethernet Ground Adapter as a secondary solution. Also, I would not connect all the telephone and co-axial cables in your home to the ONT unit until we can get one that we know is low-EMI and/or shielded properly.
Hope this has been helpful!
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks so much, Jeromy!
The information you were given by Verizon regarding their router confuses me a little. While I cannot disable the wifi in any manual way upon the router itself, I am able to log into my account and from there I can select both the 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz options and I can disable the WiFi myself for each frequency band. When I do that there is no WiFi signal capable of then being accessed in my apartment. I have not done this yet but I can also log into my router number/IP address directly through any web browser and change settings which are directly applicable to my router. I thought that maybe I should do that to double check and make sure the radio frequency transmission has been disabled.
Given the above information, do you still think it is necessary that I purchase another router such as Jan-Rutger’s Ecos brand? Is there still wireless radio frequency transmission emanating from the router even though I cannot pick up any WiFi signal from my desktop or laptop computers?
I was still considering obtaining and placing a router guard cage over the router as an added precaution as well.
I do have one device that is not grounded. A Macbook Air laptop so I should ground the connection extending from the router to the Macbook. Does the product I had linked earlier seem efficient for that purpose?
I also do not have an ONT unit installed in my home though my neighbor, who is also my landlord, may well have these things installed in their closed portion of the same divided house but there is not a whole lot I can do about that, unfortunately.
The only Verizon devices I have are the modem and router. My girlfriend uses a phone but she uses her external service provider’s (AT&T) connection and not the internal Verizon one. Believe it or not I do not use a smartphone, just an old school flip phone which I keep off most of the time.
If you want any more specific information regarding any of this or what I stated was not clear enough please let me know.
Thanks so much for all of your very unusually benevolent understanding as well as your patience and empathy here. These attributes are rare in today’s world.
Best Always,
James
James Gerrity
p.s.
Forgot to add/ask, so you think it unnecessary to ground the cable extending from the router to the desktop computer and just to run a shielded cable directly from the router and directly into the iMac? Would the grounding adapter not really add any further EMI mitigation benefit?
Also, if I log directly into the router through a web browser I may even be able to adjust settings for attributes such as the beacon signal if you think that would also effect anything for the better?
Jeromy
James,
I don’t think that the ground adapter would add much benefit between the router and iMac desktop computer.
I also wouldn’t mess with the beacon settings. I would just have the WiFi completely off, except for the few minutes a day or week when you might need WiFi. None of it is good for us.
Jeromy
Jeromy
Hi James,
A few comments:
1.) You should be okay if you can disable the WiFi by logging into your Verizon panel. However, with other services, such as Comcast Xfinity, their are still public WiFi channels and the private channels will sometimes come back on during system updates. You just want to double check this. I mention the issues with Comcast here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
2.) It is really difficult to confirm any of this without your own RF and EMF meters. It’s like wondering what your blood work results are without sending them to an accredited lab. I would at least have a basic RF meter like the Safe and Sound Classic seen here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Watch these as well:
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
3.) You don’t need a router guard if there is no WiFi emanating. They are not ideal solutions anyway.
4.) The ground adapter will help with the low-frequency EMI coming to the Macbook Air. However, Apple laptops are already the highest EMF devices there are. This is compounded by the Ethernet to USB-C adapter that is needed to connect to wired internet. This device adds EMI.
See #5 here where I mention low-EMF laptops that work well for electrically sensitive people:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
It sounds like your current desktop computer is already pretty good. I would just confirm with EMF meters if possible.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks again, Jeromy!
I know with Verizon the connections are more individuated if that makes sense? I’m not sure if they transmit updates or not whereby the wifi is intermittently enabled at intervals and do not know if there is any way I can inquire with Verizon to find out.
So with an ethernet grounding adapter connecting the Macbook Air to the router essentially the laptop is more dangerous than when using the wifi is your contention?
Would the best option be to purchase a low EMF router such as the Ecos then and use the Macbook with wifi plus maybe an external keyboard, etc. rather than ground the laptop with an ethernet connection? Is there any way to make an ethernet connected Macbook safer with a wired connection rather than a wifi one?
Do the Ecos routers still require further protection such as a router guard?
I want to get a meter but want to purchase the correct one and I live on a highly compromised income, alas, so it’s unfortunately not something I can afford to purchase relatively soon.
Thanks again, most sincerely, for all of your invaluable assistance.
Best,
James
Jeromy
James,
Not a problem at all. Happy to be of help.
I would do your best to never use WiFi. That is always the worst option from a health perspective.
A wired Macbook Air will be best. If you can add in the ground adapter, that will also be beneficial.
Also, the Eco-Routers are decent if you need WiFi in the home for periods of time. However, your Macbook Air will still be emitting WiFi in the normal way (not Eco). Your own device, whether laptop, tablet or smart phone is always your biggest exposure if you are using wireless (not the router).
So, do your best to wire all your devices. I have not personally used WiFi on a device in seven years. It hurts, so I simply don’t do it anymore.
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks ever so much yet again, Jeromy!
Unfortunately my girlfriend does use an iPhone although it is a much older model. She generally keeps it in airplane mode unless she needs the internet and when using headphones she has it in airplane mode though she should still get an airtube set. Does grounding the phone actually make it potentially worse? She uses her external service provider (AT&T) for connectivity and not the internal router.
Also, with my desktop, because its own powered cable connection is grounded then the grounding adapter adds no additional benefit at all? Why is that? I would think that it would or could it actually make it worse in any way having it grounded at both ends?
So I guess the best thing to do is just keep the Verizon router wifi switched off rather than replace it? I think the reason why my Verizon router enables me to turn wifi on and off is because I do not have the ONT system perhaps?
Anyway, please accept my earnest gratitude for all of your help and I extend to you wishes for many blessings in this minefield of a world we are contending with.
Best Always,
James
Dan
Hey Jeromy, I read up on this thread as I’m in a similar situation. In addition to the shielded cables and grounding, do you think putting some sort of emf cage over the O.N.T. inside our apartment would be beneficial?
Thanks!
Dan
Jessica H Turano
Hello, great info thank you 🙂
I am getting Xfinity/Comcast cable TV and adding a landline thru them as well. This will require a cable modem I plan to purchase; either a EMTA 3.1 or DOCSIS 3.0. I will not have WiFi or any Internet connection. Wondering which modem would be better to reduce our EMF & if this modem could possible be picking up a WiFi signal from outside our home? I don’t know how to go about even getting a hard wired land line, is there a huge difference EMF wise between that and the modem? I’m trying to reduce my cell phone dependency & model that for my kids but I’m self employed and people need to have a way to contact me. Thanks so much for your help!
Jeromy
Hi Jessica,
Grateful the website is helping out.
For the good wired modems with Comcast, read the update section of this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
Then for wiring your home internet system, read this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
You will want to have the internet data service from Comcast and then do most of your work / calls from a wired computer. This is how I do my life. I have not used WiFi in over 7 years. I also rarely use a cell phone (only for text messages). My friends and clients know to contact me via email (on my wired computer) or via a text message. I don’t use a cell phone for email or messenger apps because that takes data/WiFi.
Read this for some smart phone safety tips:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
Feel free to reach out with specific questions. This is how I work with clients:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Hi Jeromy,
One quick further question which I think would interest other readers of your articles. If Verizon were clandestinely pumping an intermittent wifi signal through their router even if I had the wifi disabled, then would a replacement router, such as the JRS Eco-WiFi for example, prevent Verizon from being able to do that or would it not matter? It would also seem difficult to determine this with a meter alone if Verizon were doing such a thing but it was being done infrequently. In other words, you would have to catch it with the meter at the right moment, no?
Thanks, again!
James
Jeromy
Hi James,
Great question. I have never seen Comcast or AT&T only turn on the WiFi for a short period of time. It is usually turned on until you catch it and then turn it off again. I would assume Verizon is the same. These are typically turned back on during system updates.
Having your own router where you control this is the key. Verizon would not be able to control your own router – only their products. If you have a modem that you know does not have a WiFi antenna, then you should be good to go.
I advise that you at least have a good RF meter. The Safe and Sound Classic is a wise investment on a budget. See here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks, Jeromy.
Once I switch off/disable wifi. I check frequently by logging into my router through my IP address online and the radio signal is always listed as “off” and “disabled”. Do these companies actually enable radio transmission while your settings connection still states that it is off and disabled or would it being remotely enabled always be indicated as such directly in the settings? I am presuming based on my checking that Verizon leave things alone once you disable your wifi then? I suppose they could be asked directly …
Also, if the ports on a modem are grounded but the ports on the router are not, how does this effect connecting a grounding adapter? Alternately, with replacement routers I note that their ports tend to be grounded so if my modem ports are grounded plus the router ethernet ports are also grounded, how would this effect my grounding adapter connection to both a laptop and to a desktop pc? If both ends are grounded can that actually create some kind of a negative energy entrapment loop or am I mistaken about this?
Thanks so much!
James
Jeromy
Hi James,
With both of your questions, you only know by measuring. It’s like going to the doctor to check a bunch of blood markers without actually drawing and testing the blood at a certified lab.
Most likely the router is not emitting WiFi if it says “disabled” online. However, I have seen plenty of instances where it says disable with Comcast or AT&T and there is still WiFi being emitted. I have never tested Verizon. It is so cheap to put in WiFi antennas and these companies want to be connected to everything in your home, so you really only know by actually measuring.
It’s same with grounding. You have to check the electric fields to know if what you did was correct.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Thanks, Jeromy, sure I understand a meter is logical to have but I figured with grounding and grounded ports there would at least be some principles or rules pretty much dictating a more or less assured theoretical outcome based on established paradigms, of course then taking into account unforeseen wild card variables, obviously.
But if you have grounded ports at both ends from both a modem and from a router as well and then you connect shielded cables between them and a grounding adapter to each device, in theory should that be fine or in theory could that make the situation worse?
Jeromy
James,
Typically, it should help. However, I have had situations where it did not. It then took some troubleshooting to get the electric fields grounded.
I wish there was simple answers to this and no need for measurements. However, I find that is usually not the case.
Jeromy
James Gerrity
Hi Jeromy and thanks so much for all of your patience and kindness.
The unfortunate problem I have is that my income is severely compromised. I am handicapped and I live on SSI money and food stamps so my capabilities and means whereby I am able to make purchases is constrained, to put it mildly. of course I understand that the best and most logical first step would be to purchase a meter but I simply cannot afford a decent reliable appropriate one. The cheaper ones are profoundly flawed, unreliable, and ultimately pointless.
I thought it would be wiser for me to invest a larger sum of money, initially, into a replacement router which would in theory be safer than the Verizon one?
All I have is a desktop iMac and a Macbook Air and no tv nor any other devices connected to a Verizon modem and a separate router so I just want to make those connections are as safe in theory as possible for the time being but want to avoid making any errors which might worsen the situation by creating ground loops, etc. which was why I was asking about grounded and ungrounded ports in relation to shielded cables between router and devices, etc.
I am presuming best possible foundation is star grounding? To insure that the separate modem and router, for example, are grounded at one point. Is this done simply as a connection between the router and its power adapter? If this is done does the router and modem ports being grounded or not not really matter all that much? Then connection to desktop computer is just a straightforward shielded cable from the router directly into the pc.
With the Macbook Air an additional grounding adapter would still be needed though it sounds like some of these grounding adapters enabled at the device itself can make the situation worse with laptops? Are those just meant to be used when the laptop is being used while it is charging/plugged in? Do grounding adapters plugged in at the routers and then going out to the Macbook cause same potential problems?
I note you recommend flat cables. This company suggest that their rounded ones are superior. Do you feel flat are superior to rounded?
https://www.electrahealth.com/cat7-25ft.html
James Gerrity
**plus it also sounds like, if I need to truly be accurate and precise, I would ideally need several meters in order to detect different forms of RF radiation as well as to also detect presence of dirty RMI based radiation as well.
Would be nice if we had a place of origination of these technologies that possessed some degree of ethics and morals whereby these technologies were disseminated among the masses with a moral and ethical safety consideration, accountability, and responsibility at the outset but sadly the world we inhabit is the opposite of this and one is left to deplete of oneself and one’s energy and resources protecting one’s health and this is not simply unique to web and wireless related tech but is sadly all pervasive throughout every facet of existence now.
Terry
Hello Jeromy, your page has been a very useful resource for me. I wanted to ask you, if I have CAT5E unshielded ethernet wiring within my apartment walls, is it fine to use a shielded CAT7 cable on my end or will it cause issues such as ground loop? Am I restricted to CAT5E cables on my end as well? Thank you.
Jeromy
Hi Terry,
Thanks for the kudos on the website.
You can still use CAT7 cables on your end. With the Ethernet Ground Adapter in between two CAT7 cables, this should still reduce the electric fields coming to your laptop.
One thing about the CAT5 cables in the walls – I would disconnected any that you are not using from the router or switch. This will reduce the radiated EMI coming from those cables. Only have the ones you are using attached to the router/switch.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Terry
Thank you for this detailed response. Until I get my hands on an Ethernet ground adapter, is it a good idea to run a CAT7 patch cable, or should I use a CAT5E patch cable until then? I have researched the topic a little bit and some professionals strongly recommend to ground all shielded cables such as CAT7 or CAT6A.
Another thing, which I remembered now is that you have mentioned multiple times that USB-C to Ethernet adapters cause EMI. I’m currently using such an adapter by Moshi, which is made of anodized aluminum and it claims to reduce EMI. Do you think such an adapter could be better than a regular plastic one or could it make things worse in an ungrounded setup? I know from your website that for example the aluminum in Macbooks tends to increase EMF exposure.
Jeromy
Hi Terry,
I have only used shielded CAT7 cables with a ground adapter / grounding, so I would get your grounding supplies and then use the CAT7 / CAT6 cables.
Can you post a link to the Moshi adapter? I’ll get one and try it out. I’ll also email you a document I have on the electric fields at a Macbook Air with various adapters. The USB-C to Ethernet connection caused the most EMI / electric fields.
Thanks,
Jeromy
Terry
Hey Jeromy,
I will consider this new valuable advice when making my home less EMF-prone.
Here is an Amazon link to the Moshi USB-C to Ethernet adapter, which I’m using right now (it should be available on other sites as well if you prefer them, but you can just see the model here):
https://amzn.to/38iGJ3V
Biggest of thanks for the e-mail!
Vermiis
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks for this!
What is your opinion of “ground loop isolator” devices which are recommended by some companies to be used with grounded ports on routers and modems and in tandem with shielded cables to prevent build up of radiation within the cables?
Are these devices beneficial or are there any potential negative consequences which can result from their employment?
Thank you!
– Vermiis
Jeromy
Hi Vermiis,
Thanks for your question. Is this one you are considering?
https://www.electrahealth.com/cable_tv_current_isolator.html?a_aid=esh
Perhaps provide links to more examples if you could.
Thanks,
Jeromy
Vermiis
This one:
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet_Ground_Loop_Isolator.html
They claim there are issues with shielded cables connecting devices:
“However – there is also an EMF problem with shielded cables. That is that “ground loops” can be created. Ground loops can create signals that are biologically active and potentially harmful. Some people are more sensitive than others. Ground loops occur when a grounded object is grounded at both ends. With Ethernet this can occur when, for example, you plug a shielded Ethernet cable into a desktop computer (which is grounded) and then the other end goes into a metal router which is hooked to a cable modem that is also grounded. The cable can be grounded at both ends – and this can create REAL problems.
Ground loops contains buzzy, seemingly random and biologically incoherent and incompatible frequencies/signals. They can be powerful and need to be avoided.”
So this causes me a lot of confusion in terms of how to set things up. Are these types of isolators generally necessary when connecting shielded cables to laptop and desktop pcs from a router and do ports on routers being shielded or not effect this type of dynamic?
Vermiis
p.s.
I mean, they make it sound like in certain situations shielded cables are potentially even more dangerous than unshielded ones.
Jeromy
Vermiis,
The isolator is used on the cable line coming into the home to reduce/stop any current flowing on that.
It is fine (and recommended) to use good shielded and groundable CAT6 or CAT7 cables.
One thing you want to be sure of is that you are only grounding your Ethernet system once.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Kariem
Hi Jeromy,
First of all thanks a lot for this article!
As part of step 2, instead of buying a low bandwidth router can I just switch off the 5 Ghz frequency band on my router and just enable the 2.4 Ghz with a speed up to 144 Mb/s.
Is my thinking correct on this or will it be better to test this myself to find out if the EMI levels are low enough when connected through ethernet?
Jeromy
Hi Kariem,
Thanks for asking.
The issue with your solution is that you will still be using WiFi, which is probably the biggest health issue with your setup.
I would disable all wireless and then use as low of bandwidth modem/router you can use with your internet provider. That is your best route for both no-WiFi and low-EMI.
You will test things like this:
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
How Accurate Is Your EMF Meter? https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Valerie Medel
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks for providing this article.
I purchased the Arris SURFboard Motorola modem SB6141 400 series and the TP-link 5 port desktop switch TL-SF1005D. We have Comcast as our internet provider and when I connected this we could only use one computer at a time. I assume I need to add a router in, or maybe I misread the article. If I do need a router which one would you recommend?
Thanks,
Valerie
Valerie Medel
Hi again I re-read the article looks like I need to add in the router and then attach the TP-Link to that to lower the EMI? Is that correct?
Thanks again,
Valerie
Jeromy
Hi Valerie,
Yes, you will need a router to connect multiple devices. See Step #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
If you only have wired connections, the TRENDnet wired router will work fine.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Dan
Hey Jeromy. Thanks so much for this helpful information. A few questions for you as I prepare to take the steps outlined in this article.
First of all, is a cable internet provider like Comcast, Spectrum, etc. generally better or worse than a fiber internet connection like Google Fiber? I understand bandwidth is important, but would it be better to go with lower bandwidth on a fiber or traditional cable connection?
Also, with Google Fiber, would it help to shield the network box and/or O.N.T. on the wall? Or is shielding only effective against RF and not EMI? Any other steps we could take, other than turning off wi-fi on the network box and using shielded/grounded ethernet cables to connect directly to a computer?
Jeanne
Hi Jeromy,
I just discovered your site last night!
Years ago, I had my computer hardwired by ethernet cord and used a corded telephone even, then I fell off the wagon. Now, I want to go wifi-free except when I have to be on my cellphone.
So, I have some questions.
I’ve plugged my computer into the modem/router and I’m going to plug my smart TV in, but I’m with Cincinnati Bell and theirs is a modem/router in one, and there is no way of turning the wifi off.
1. Are there still a lot of EMF’s in the environment if I can’t turn it off?
2. What can I do that is compatible with Cincinnati Bell as far as devices that can be turned on when I need them for wifi? And turned off when not necessary? I think I have fios.
3. When my cellphone is not connected to my own wifi, and is just using whatever it can pick up, is the radiation as much as if I were connected to my own wifi account?
I thank you in advance.
Warm Regards,
Jeanne
Jeromy
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for writing.
In short, you want to work with your ISP (Cinncinati Bell) to get you a wired-only modem. They usually have a list of approved modems you can buy yourself (which also saves you the rental fee). You just need them to provide this.
Then you do this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
As it is now, your modem/router is a heavy emitter of RF. So is your smart TV until you disable the wireless.
You will want to test these with a good basic RF meter. You are really flying blind without decent meters. Read/watch these:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Get the Safe and Sound Classic as a start for RF. It’s great for the price. You get a 5% discount with my code: EMFA
https://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/SafeandSoundRFDetector.aspx
As for you cell phone, read this for some good tips:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
Hope this helps. If you want a good local consultant to come in or if you want to have a Zoom call to discuss, this is how that works:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
Ed
Hello Jeromy and thank you so much for your work! I want to use the jrs eco router you suggest, for reduced wifi radiation and timed off at night. I’m confused as to wether I also need just a modem (you specify) or a modem and a “switch” though. Can you please clarify?
Thank you so much.
Ed
Jeromy
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the kudos on my work!
You do need a modem as your connection to your ISP/cable company. See Steps #1 and #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
After your Eco-Wifi Router, you can place an ethernet switch if you need to connect more than 3 or 4 devices via Ethernet. See Step #3 in the link above.
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Alicia Frank
Hi Jeromy,
At the beginning of your article on how to set up a Low EMI Internet system you mention, if we don’t have AT&T or Verizon. Why? Is it because fiber optics are better, lower emf/emi choices?
I have read that fiber optics is the way to go for the electrically sensitive. If that is correct, would it matter if I get 1 gig w/ a fiber optics setup or do I still have to get a lower mbp? Please give any info on this! (These companies think I’m nuts when I tell them I want lower speeds! Sometimes they don’t even offer it!)
Please clarify about the differences between fiber optics and regular cable. And which one would be better for us sensitive folks.
Thank you very much!
Best,
Alicia
Jeromy
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for asking. I say this about AT&T and Verizon because they don’t let you install your own modem/router. Providers like Comcast, Spectrum and the regional ISPs usually have a list of approved wired cable modems that you can install. You can then cherry pick one that works well for you. You simply have more options with cable internet providers. See the Update section of this article for the cable modems that are working well for ES people:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
With the fiber-optics-to-the-home providers (AT&T, Verizon, etc), they typically have their own ONT device (fiber modem/router combo) that you have no choice but to accept. The ONT device may or may not allow for the WiFi to be disabled. However, the bigger issue is the EMI created by the device that is placed on the home wiring and is transmitted along the Ethernet cables to your laptop.
This EMI is primarily created both by the power source (SMPS). The conversion process of light (fiber optic) to electrical signals (Ethernet) could also be a why some people are not doing well with these ONT devices.
My personal experience with these fiber modems is that they are harder on my system after a while on my computer. Other electrically sensitive people have noted this as well.
Pure fiber to the home may eventually be the best thing for electrically sensitive people. However, first we need ONT devices that are designed with low-EMI principles in mind. Or, we need to be able to cherry pick between 5-6 different models that we can choose from on Amazon. Fiber-to-the-premises is just too new for this to be an option at this time.
For this reason, and the reasons I lay out in this article, I would stick with a cable provider if you can for now. You just have way more flexibility in setting up a system that works for you. This situation may evolve in a year or two.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fiber-optics-increasing-electrical-sensitivity/
Hope this helps you understand the fiber situation a bit more clearly.
Jeromy
Steve Clark
Jeromy,
Thanks for all the great info here. I’m checking in about your “may evolve in a year or two” comment.
We’re currently on DSL, and need to buy more bandwidth. CenturyLink won’t let us do it on copper, they require us to switch to fiber. This would be ONT (outside, I believe) with ethernet to the router (presumably the existing cable). The other option is Xfinity (there’s cable to the house, but we don’t currently have anything on it). I’ve been looking for a comparison between the two technologies, EMF-wise, but not finding anything really clear. AIUI, both cable modem and ONT can dump EMI on the ethernet and power (is there a cheap way to filter the power, e.g. at the plug?).
Could you summarize your understanding of the current state of things? Is there a clear Right Answer today?
thanks,
-Steve
Jeromy
Hey Steve,
Great questions.
First, here is an “update” on the fiber issue:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fiber-optics-increasing-electrical-sensitivity/#comment-45837
Second, I would lean towards cable internet with Comcast at this time. You will have complete control over the modem and router, thus you can cherry-pick equipment much more easily. This will be impossible with fiber as the ONT unit (or a hybrid fiber system with lots of EMI in your neighborhood) could be problematic for your wife. They can’t be changed at this time either.
Most of my electrically sensitive clients get the following with Comcast internet. I outline this here in this article as well:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Modem:
Arris Modem SB6190 for Comcast/Spectrum/Cox: https://amzn.to/3kzE2BK
Get these if you need a phone line(s) as well:
Netgear CM1150V Modem: https://amzn.to/2ONBpSv
Arris TM822R Modem: https://amzn.to/2Ffuo3V
Router:
Netgear N600 Router: http://amzn.to/2FshVdf
High Speed Asus AC1900 Eco-Router: https://www.jrseco.com/p/jrs-eco-100-wifi-d2-on-asus?c=6680
(Btw, JRS offers a 7.5% discount to my readers with the code JJ21FHRE.)
Once you have the modem and router set up, I highly encourage you to run an Ethernet cable at least to your wife’s laptop. That way she is not sitting on WiFi all day. Her computer RF emissions are much more of an issue than the router 50 feet away. I have not been on a laptop using WiFi in nine years.
For that Ethernet run, you will ground the Ethernet as seen in the article at the top of this page. This will greatly reduce the electric fields and EMI running to her computer. This video shows how I do that in my home:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMlWSPXb6Zc
You could also get her a low-EMF laptop:
See #5 here for my low-EMF laptop suggestions: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
Along with my recent comment on Low-EMF Laptops here: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/#comment-25217
With all of this, she will have a really low-EMF computing system.
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Kirby
Hi. I am in the process of hard wiring my home and reviewed your article. I have a couple questions for you.
1. How do you eliminate the EMI from the SMPS from getting into your home wiring?
2. Some articles mention a concern with ground loops being created when using shielded Ethernet thoughts?
3. If I buy a gigabyte switch that has a grounded power plug would that eliminate the concern emi on both my electric lines and Ethernet (shielded or not)?
I have Comcast cable internet with my own Arris modem. My cable line in, is grounded at the junction box on the house.
Just learning how to do this the right away, so I appreciate any advice.
Jeromy
Hi Kirby,
Thanks for your questions. Here are some thoughts:
1.) One thing I do is have the modem/router plugged into a different circuit than the room I am working in. They are typically in a room far away from my workstation/home office. I then turn of the circuit breakers in my work room and grounded Ethernet is the only thing coming to my laptop.
However, the EMI from the SMPS is also getting on the neutral wire, which is connected to every circuit in the house. There are a couple things you could do to eliminate this:
A.) Install a Neutral-Power EMF Sleep Switch that physically disconnects the hot and neutral wires to your home office room. You can learn more about these here:
https://emfsleepsafe.com/emfa
B.) Replace the SMPS that comes with your modem/router with a toroidal DC power supply. If you have experience building basic electronics, these are fairly easy to make at home.
I think the SMPS from your modem/router is not the biggest issue with your internet setup. I would tackle this last, if at all.
2.) I think this is valid. I only ground my Ethernet connection once. Several of my clients are doing well with this new product. I have not tried it yet, but it does great if you have a newer laptop without an actual Ethernet port.
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ultimate-Grounding-USB-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-with-USB-Hub.html?a_aid=esh
3.) I don’t think so. I would still want to have a ground on your Ethernet lines between the modem/router and your laptop, as I describe in the article above.
Ultimately, you are only going to know your results by testing. Use either the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B or ME3851A to test the lower frequency electric fields. Then have an older AM radio to test the radiated EMI.
I list these here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Connie Anderson
Hi Jeromy,
I use a desktop computer (an iMac) and I have the ethernet cable grounded per your instructions. When I learned about the danger of ground loops, I put a ground loop isolator onto the end of my ethernet where it plugs into the computer. Before I added the isolator to my setup, do you think I had a ground loop? The ethernet would have been getting grounded both at the computer (via the grounded electrical power plug) and also where I have the grounding adaptor? BTW, both the power plug for the iMac and the grounding adaptor are plugged into the same circuit. Would it be better if I had them in separate circuits?
The isolator did seem to help… but it wasn’t a silver bullet, since I still can only be on the computer a limited amount of time (it varies from day to day, but 1 hour at a time max usually).
Many thanks,
Connie
Becky
My HDMI cable goes from the TV to the Router. But the TRENDnet 4-Port Broadband Router does have a slot for it. Where does this go?
Jeromy
Hi Becky,
You would need to run the HDMI cable from a laptop, computer or DVD player to your TV. The TrendNET wired router doesn’t have such a port.
Jeromy
Slawomir
Hi Jeromy,
Congratulation for the outstanding Wireless Wake up Call which I saw yesterday. I am concerned with EMF for two years now. I have limited as much as possible EMF from my environment (no Wi-Fi usage, no transfer data, usage of softphone rather than mobile, etc). Now it’s a time to tackle with EMI. Have a question regarding the setup for fiber optics internet provider to eliminate EMI. I have fiber optics which goes into the bridge. From the bridge I use ethernet cable to the router. I am not sure if modem will work for myself as I need something like bridge. Any idea?
Best Regards,
Slawomir
Jeromy
Hi Slawomir,
Thanks for the kudos on my TEDx talk. If you have the time, watch my EMF Conference presentation. It’s much more current and in-depth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH2CQba0M8U
For your situation, I would simply do the Ethernet grounding between your router and your laptop as I outline in the article above. This video shows how I ground my Ethernet before it gets to my computer:
How to Ground Your Ethernet Connection: https://youtu.be/bMlWSPXb6Zc
Sometimes a low-EMF laptop will really help. See #5 here for my suggestions:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
If you are looking for a lower EMI router, see Step #2 in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Dono
Some great information here. I have a few questions:
(*) I notice you recommend the “slower” router. Do these have lower RF than the faster routers ? I noticed that my Arris 862gt produces fairly high readings (field readings at around 1.5 mW/m2 on my tripoint when held against the router) even after turning off wifi and the hotspot. This is higher (for example) than my netgear 8 port switch
(*) Are you recommending CAT7 specifically because of the shielding ? (I suppose CAT6 STP would work just as well for this)
(*) does having the ethernet cables inside the walls provide any advantage ? (do the walls substantially reduce RF ?)
(*) I observe some pretty high readings when I put my (tripoint) RF up against (unshielded CAT6 ethernet) and also the netgear GB switch. What kind of RF readings do you see for your shielded cable and your 10/100 switches (and how does it compare to unshielded cable or GB switches) ? This article contains good advice, the more common advice that suggests that just installing ethernet wiring will reduce RF, seems less good
Jeromy
Hi Dono,
I always recommend that you don’t have any WiFi in your home. A modem / router where this can be completely disabled is important.
It sound like you have a TriField meter? These are not accurate for RF. Watch this:
https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Happy to help with your questions. If you send me an email with these and book an email consult, I’ll get back to you. You can find this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Donal
Hi,
This is such a great article. I recently wanted to switch to a safer wired connection. I am based here in Ireland and my service Provider is Vodafone and I use a DSL wireless router. I do have the option of switching off the wifi on the settings and connecting via shielded ethernet cables but when testing with an AM radio there is an incredible amount of emi in the house. Would you recommend the trendnet wired router in this case? How would I connect the trendnet router to DSL?
Jeromy
Hi Donal,
Grateful the info is helping out.
The first thing to do is figure out what the source of EMI is. I’ll email you my AM radio protocol.
The wired Trendnet router probably won’t decrease the EMI very much. My bet is a lot is coming from your DSL modem. It could be other things too though. It becomes a detective job.
Grounding your Ethernet connection should reduce the EMI / electric fields coming to your computer.
My best,
Jeromy
Donal
Thanks for all your help Jeromy. So do you think my best bet would be to use my existing dsl router, switch off wifi on the settings and connect via shielded ethernet cable but add in a grounding ethernet adaptor?
Per the am radio point, whenever I plug in my dsl router whether the wifi is set on or off I can detect EMI with my AM radio. The buzzing stops on the radio once I unplug my router.
Jeromy
Hi Donal,
That setup sounds good.
The AM radio is only measuring EMI at a certain frequency (500 KHz to 2 MHz). It won’t be able to tell if the WiFi is on. For that you need a decent RF meter (to confirm your WiFi is actually off).
I recommend the Safe and Sound Classic as a start for RF. It’s great for the price. You get a 5% discount with my code: EMFA
https://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/SafeandSoundRFDetector.aspx
It’s bigger brother, the Safe and Sound Pro II, is probably the best consumer RF meter on the market. You get a 5% discount with my code: EMFA
https://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/SafeandSoundProIIRFMeter.aspx
My DSL modem/routers are high emitters of EMI. Unless you can change to a different type of service, you stuck with this. You could put it out in the garage and away from the main living area and possibly reduce the EMI in the rest of the home.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Noah
Hi Jeromy,
I echo many of the other comments. I can’t thank you enough for thoroughly sharing your expertise!
I deal w/ chronic Lyme disease and my new MD pointed out how important it is to hardwire or at the very least replace my Comcast combo modem/router. She explained the default Comcast modem/routers are especially high EMF contributors as they send out an additional signal to cell towers.
My plan is to eventually hardwire when I can find an expert to do so since it’s too physically demanding for me. In the meantime, I wanted to buy your suggested modem and router.
Q: If I buy the Arris Surfboard modem and the JRS Eco 100 D2 on Asus router, would I also have to buy one of the wired routers to go with it in order to get multiple IP addresses or does the JRS eco router additionally work as a wired router?
Q: I currently have 2 hard wired sections in my home (1 mac runs at 320mbps download and other runs at 250) and I’m wondering if switching back and forth on a regular basis from single shared IP address to multiple is pretty seamless or does it cause issues?
Q: If you hardwire and have simultaneously have 3 people on computers and 3 people using hard wired roku ultra sticks to watch tv, can you still get away with 200 or 300mbps download speed, using appropriate splitters?
THANK YOU!!!!
-Noah
Jeromy
Hi Noah,
Thanks for your comment. Apologies for my delay.
First, the Comcast Xfinity modem/router combos are so powerful and dangerous because they also provide WiFi for the public (people walking by your home). These public antennas are difficult to turn off, which is why I recommend that you have your own wired modem.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
To your questions:
Q1: No, you just need the Surfboard modem and the JRS eco-router. Then you wire things from there.
Arris Modem SB6190 for Comcast/Spectrum/Cox: https://amzn.to/3kzE2BK
High Speed Asus AC1900 Eco-Router:
https://www.jrseco.com/p/jrs-eco-100-wifi-d2-on-asus/?c=4812
The AC1900 only has the WiFi on when a device connects to it. Then it radiates at 90% less power than other routers. It also has an “on/off” button for WiFi so it can be completely turned off. The speeds of this router are very high ~ up to 400 mbps for WiFi and over a gigabit for wired connections.
Q2: The JRS eco-router will easily handle this.
Q3: Again, the JRS router and Arris modem will easily handle this setup. One point of note though: Roku sticks will be high emitters of RF. Here is a Roku 2 box on standby mode. The sticks will be constantly emitting RF:
https://youtu.be/rj5wKacUGKY
With Lyme, I highly encourage you to have a home with no or very little RF. This is really important for your recovery. Watch my talk here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH2CQba0M8U
I would get your own RF meter to confirm this. Here is what I recommend for meters:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Get the Safe and Sound Classic as a start for RF. It’s great for the price. You get a 5% discount with my code: EMFA
https://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/SafeandSoundRFDetector.aspx
It’s bigger brother, the Safe and Sound Pro II, is probably the best consumer RF meter on the market. You get a 5% discount with my code: EMFA
https://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/SafeandSoundProIIRFMeter.aspx
Hope all of this helps. Keep in touch.
Jeromy
Lesia Aungst
Thank you for the information, Jeromy!
I would like to switch to ethernet from WiFi. Do you have any suggestions who can help me to connect one computer in the basement and another one on the second floor, along with a TV that runs via the internet on the first floor? My internet is via a local cable provider, not Verizon or AT&T. Do you think an electrician would be able to help?
Thank you,
Lesia
Jeromy
Hi Lesia,
Grateful this is all of value to you.
The process of wiring your home is fairly straightforward. If you are not technical, you can buy the equipment and have a younger tech person (high school / college age) do this. You will basically just do steps 2 & 3 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
You will want to test that the RF is indeed off for your modem/router/TV and devices. Read/watch these on EMF Meters:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Get the Safe and Sound Classic as a great starter RF meter.
Keep in touch with questions,
Jeromy
Dan
Maybe you addressed this in one of the comments above but there is too many to read. My ethernet cable comes from outside and does not use a router at all. It comes in through the wall from outside and I just am using an adaptor and another ethernet cat7 connected to the computer. Would that emit much emf? Is there a radius generally where the emf is in relation to the computer? Also I have my phone connected to my computer so that I am able to access internet from my laptop being connected to the ethernet. Do you think much emf is on the phone end that is connected via usb cable?
Jeromy
Hi Dan,
You really only know by measuring. Read through and watch these:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
If your adapter for the Ethernet is as I describe above and you have it grounded to the outside, you should be quite good.
For your smart phone, I assume you have it on Airplane mode so it is not radiating? Read through this about wiring an iPhone:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-wire-an-ipad/
Here is the adapter you will use:
Redpark Ethernet Cable: https://redpark.com/lightning-ethernet-cable-l5-net/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Nancy Hoch
I recently got Verizon Fios and am using their Router and ONT. I am getting ready to turn off my wifi and hard wire our two desktop computers instead.
Two questions: 1) Should I use shielded or unshielded ethernet wires to do this?
2) Does it matter if I use cat5e or cat6a in terms of limiting the radiation in the house?
Thanks,
Nancy
Jeromy
Hi Nancy,
I would use the shielded CAT7 cables that I recommend here in Step #3:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
They will reduce the radiated EMI and allow you to ground them (per the article above).
My best,
Jeromy
Darice Graham
Jeromy, would you perform a live webinar to walk us through this, step by step? Yes the article is very straight forward, but not for someone not familiar with any of these concepts. Thoughts?
Jeromy
That’s a good idea Darice. However, this setup is an advanced step that is for (typically electrically sensitive) people who have a decent understanding of the topic and have meters to test the results. They seem to get the gist of the article fine.
Jeromy
Frank
Hi Jeromy.
Thank you for all you do. I am switching to Comcast and in the process of buying one of the outlined modem and router combos you reference in this article. Due to the layout of my apartment I cannot add the required second line to ground with the copper rod outlined in your video. That being said, if I bought one of the noted modems and let’s say, the Trendnet router – what can I do from there to illicit the lowest EMF/RF/EMI from the system? My home setup is super minimal – I only require one ethernet input to my computer. What is the best path forward? Side note, I do have a set of plug-in ethernet devices that allows a home’s wiring to carry the ethernet signal to my computer. These seem to have worked well in the past, although I know the are not the best option.
Sidebar question – is the HF-35C still applicable in today’s world with higher and lower frequencies commonly in the mix? Is is still worth it to own one considering its range of 800mhz-2.5ghz?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Frank,
Thanks for your questions.
1.) The Safe and Sound Pro II is the best consumer RF meter today. Get that one:
https://safelivingtechnologies.com/safe-and-sound-pro-ii-rf-meter/
You get a discount with my code EMFA.
2.) Here are my full meter recommendations:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
3.) PLC technology does cause a lot of EMI issues. It’s better than wireless, but straight Ethernet is best.
4.) At your Ethernet plugs, I would do the grounded Ethernet system I outline above (even in a short distance) to your low-EMF laptop.
See #5 here for my low-EMF laptop suggestions: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
Along with my recent comment on Low-EMF Laptops here: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/#comment-25217
You will always have a window to ground the Ethernet system out of the ground. Watch this video:
How to Ground Your Ethernet Connection: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMlWSPXb6Zc
Hope all of this helps!
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
Yash here. We’ve been in touch since 7 years now.
Great article, as usual. But I will tell you my unique issue. Not just computer and router/modem off, even with entire electricity in my home turned off, EMI from my internet provider’s incoming CAT5 wire is causing issues. My internet speed was upgraded from 10 MBPS to 25 MBPS (but in reality it seems the speed was 100 MBPS as speed tests showed speeds of about 80-90 MBPS). This was 5-7 days back. This was done without informing me but my sensitivity sound found something is amiss and I could trace it down.
Now, even with the ISP having reduced the speed back to 10MBPS on my special request, the issue persists. There is nothing I can do at my home about this as the EMI blazes my home even with all electricity at home switched off. My ISP runs a CAT5 wire from the terrace of my building (8th floor) to my home on the 5th floor. This CAT5 wire is quite old.
I will first tell my ISP to switch off the internet over the weekend from his server. I will also remove the the CAT5 wire running from terrace to my home. This will give a chance to confirm if this is the issue causing me problems. And also give me breathing space. If this gets rid of the EMI from my home and eventually my headaches, then what are my solutions? Should I replace the unshielded old CAT5 wire wit fiber optic cable? or shielded CAT5/6/7 cable?
Note: Internal wiring from my router to switch and then my computer is by using double shielded CAT5 wiring. Is this an ideal choice?
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
Good to hear from you.
I would put a fiber optic break/barrier in between your apartment and the line coming from your ISP. That will eliminate most EMI coming from them.
Here is a draft article I have on how I do this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/How-to-Install-Fiber-Optic-Internet_Draft.pdf
Also, you really should be using shielded CAT6 or CAT7 with RJ45 metal endings so that you can ground the Ethernet system before it comes to your computer.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks Jeromy,
Are you suggesting the following:
a) What do you mean by fiber optic break/barrier? My ISP brings the internet to my terrace building through fiber optic. From my terrace, should I bring the internet to my home through fiber optic again?
b) From the router I distribute the internet through shielded CAT6 or CAT 7 cables with RJ45 endings? I am currently using double shielded CAT5 cables with RJ45 endings, is this an issue?
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
Your set up sounds pretty good already. The shielded CAT5 with metal endings are fine.
I sometimes use the personal fiber system as laid out in the comment above between my computer and the modem/router. It can reduce the EMI from the modem.
If you want to discuss, we can do a Zoom call. You can find that here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks Jeromy
I will do as requested and contact you if I still need any help.
Kelly
Hello Jeromy,
To lower the EMF effect from routers, I recently buy a EMF shielding wifi cover, it looks like work well, and still get enough wifi signals.
Hope this is a good choice.
https://www.amazon.com/Router-Cover-Versatile-Radiation-Shielding-Netting/dp/B08C24CXVH/
Thanks,
Kelly
Jeromy
Hi Kelly,
Unfortunately, the router shields are not that effective when up close. Watch this:
Does Shielding Your WiFi Router Actually Work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iJS9obfGxI
Jeromy
Elisabeth and Beau
Jeromy,
Thanks for this and not having a ton of advertising or fancy graphics on your site.
Am going to be near Yellowstone in the middle of nowhere the Summer. There is satellite internet. I have a Lenovo Ideapad 3 Chromebook and need to telework. I bought a Linksys wifi extender and looking for what to do next. Am on a -Strict- budget to due being disabled. Can you advise what type of ethernet cable (cat 6, 6a, 7, 8) would be best, what suggestions? What piece of the setup reduces the most? The laptop does not have an ethernet port but I have an adapter from a few years ago.
Elisabeth and Beau
Jeromy
Thank Elisabeth.
Yes, there are dozens of affiliate marketing EMF websites out now. They don’t offer real EMF advice. Just meant to get people to click on Amazon links…
The mountains around Yellowstone sounds like a great plan for the summer.
Satellite internet is problematic for electrically sensitive people. You want to be about 200 feet from the dish (which is transmitting 22,500 miles back up into space). If it is Starlink, it is “only” transmitting 341 miles up into space. You still want to be away from that dish.
I would run a really long Ethernet cable from the modem of the Hughesnet/Viasat service. You can transmit on an Ethernet cable about 300 feet.
If you are using the Wifi extender to communicate with the satellite modem, them have the extender a good 80-100 feet from you and then run a CAT7 Ethernet cable to your laptop.
I like these and there is a 75 foot cable in stock: https://amzn.to/2CWrLTI
Most ES people should ground the Ethernet before coming to the laptop. This is important as not using WiFi. Here is a ground adapter that is also USB to Ethernet adapter:
https://www.electrahealth.com/ground_usb_to_ethernet_adapter.html?a_aid=esh
I then use gator clips and a simple copper stake to ground.
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#295
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#291-ext
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#291-50
You can get the ground stake at Ace Hardware for $2 too.
This video show what I mean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMlWSPXb6Zc
If this doesn’t make sense, we can do a Zoom consult. This is how I work:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Have a great summer!
Jeromy
Barbara
When you recommend being about 200 feet from an internet satellite dish are you referring to the distance within ones own home or also from a neighbor’s dish on their roof? How can I measure if this particular RF is coming into my house? It was my understanding that satellite dishes only have a receiving antenna and therefore do not transmit any RF. Any additional information regarding this would be appreciated.
Jeromy
Hi Barbara,
Yes, this distance is only for satellite internet, which is both receiving and sending data. The RF from such a system is very high near the dish. The frequencies used for satellite internet are between 18-30 GHz. No consumer RF meters measure this range. There are professional meters that are nearly $20,000.
There is no issue with typical satellite TV dishes. They are simply receivers (similar to the GPS in your phone or satellite radio in a car).
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Ian
Hi Jeromy! Do you have an opinion on internet via MOCA? Using ethernet cables and MOCA adapters only, no Wi-Fi. Any thoughts regarding the health effects and performance of a MOCA setup? Do you think it is a good option?
Jeromy
Hi Ian,
Thanks for writing. Grateful you are paying attention to this and learning so much!
I have heard about Moca, but have not used/tested it myself.
Here is info on MoCA and the adapters I would use:
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE
Actiontec MoCA adapters: https://amzn.to/2QxtgiZ
Between a MoCA adapter and your laptop, I might ground the Ethernet connection, as I outline in the article above.
If it were me, I would run shielded CAT6, CAT7 or CAT8 cables to where you need them, but MoCA may indeed be a great alternative.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
One ISP brings high speed(100 MBPS) internet through fiber optic. It is giving me problems. In fact, even if I have everything including the modem/router is switched off, the incoming wire is still bringing some EMI. So essentially whatever I do inside my home just doesn’t matter.
Am I good to switch to another provider which provides speeds in the range of 6MBPS to 16 MBPS through a copper line from the nearest exchange? I will opt for their lowest plan of 6 MBPS which is much more than enough for my use.
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
Often times we just need to try different options until we find something that works well for us. Switching providers may indeed help your situation. There may be some EMI coming on the fiber cables (sometimes sheathed in metal) that is affecting you.
Sending my best,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
Ok, so even the provider providing 6MBPS is causing me issues. It started this morning and within a minute, I started to feel the headache.
I am trying to buy the Radio Shack 12-467 AM/FM
which you suggest. I had one but lost it. This radio is out of stock on ebay. I’m in India at the moment. I have used this radio before to find out a buzzing ADSL(internet) wire coming into my home. Where can I find this radio?
There are certain providers which are wireless overall but when it arrives at my home, it is wired. Like they are cell tower companies and get internet wirelessly. But there is a wire coming into my home. Should I try any of these? I have a feeling that this may be better.
Jeromy
Yash,
The Radio Shack model 12-464 is more widely available and works well too for EMI.
You might want to try one of the wireless providers. Some of my clients use a 4G modem that has an Ethernet port. You put the modem away from you, in another room, with some shielding fabric/foil between it and you. Then you run the Ethernet to your laptop. Here are versions of this in the US:
Here is a 4G AT&T Modem to Ethernet: https://amzn.to/2SpYMOx
And, the Netgear version: https://amzn.to/2XJvLDx1
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
I have found one Internet Service Provider(ISP) which uses coaxial cable from the terrace of my building to my home. They claim that using coaxial cable instead of copper or fiber optic is recommended both for speed and EMI reduction.
Does this make sense?
I am using same provider for wired television and that also comes through coaxial cable and I seem to be very OK with it.
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
This seems like a good option to try. I typically use cable internet myself with a well-selected non-WiFi modem. The basic Arris models are good for ES people:
https://amzn.to/3kzE2BK
Let me know how it goes.
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
While it is true that the modem you suggested is non-Wifi, it still supports blazing fast internet speeds. Is there a modem/router which supports 100MBPS or even less. Even 5MBPS is much more than what I require.
Jeromy
Most modems for sale today will offer gigabit (or 300 mbps and up) speeds. They just don’t make slower ones anymore or they won’t be compatible with the ISP’s.
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Yes, but I was hoping to get lucky if someone sold an old router capped to 10MBPS or so. 😉
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
Would you know of routers that support coaxial cable and are capped at 10 or 20MBPS? As 5MBPs is much more than enough for me, I don’t want a faster router.
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
I would get something like this:
TRENDnet Wired Router: https://amzn.to/2JqlGkE
It’s the slowest router I know of these days.
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks Jeromy,
Does this router support a coaxial cable input?
Jeromy
Yes, by definition, all cable modems support co-axial input.
Yash Rungta
I have 3 TVs in my home. My cable operator changed my coaxial cable TV splitter to a newer modern one supposedly to increase signal strength.. Although both seem to use the frequency 5-1000MHZ or 5-1002MHZ, the modern one claims to be 3-way digital tap and bi-directional.
This splitter caused tremendous amounts of EMI/Dirty Electricity throughout my home. I moved back to the previous splitter which seems to have solved the problem.
Now, my question is, is there an even older splitter which I can use? If yes, what frequency? And what features? What brand?
Ian Henderson
Hello Jeromy! I have a question regarding EMI. I went through my house and tested for EMI using the Line EMI meter from Trifield/AlphaLabs you recommend. The only serious issues I came across were with some LED lights and with my laptop computer.
My question is regarding the laptop – it causes very high EMI readings on that meter – it jumps around from 150 mVp-p to 1,500 mVp-p. I tried a USB ground cord from Lessemf.com – https://www.lessemf.com/ground.html#295 – but it didn’t change anything. I also am using this network ground adapter – https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html – with my computer but it doesn’t affect the EMI from the laptop it seems. Grounding the laptop to the outside of my house isn’t really feasible for me.
Do you know of any ways to fix this and reduce the EMI? Would any of the following items help or be relevant?
https://www.electrahealth.com/Premium-USB-Grounding-Adapter-for-Laptops-and-Other-Devices_p_159.html
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet_Ground_Loop_Isolator.html
https://www.electrahealth.com/shielded_surge_suppressor_6_outlet.html
https://www.electrahealth.com/revolutionary-grounded-usb-charger-and-7-outlet-surge-suppressor-wall-adapter.html
https://www.electrahealth.com/Ultimate-Grounding-USB-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-with-USB-Hub.html
I know also a tiny bit about Stetzerizer Filters – https://www.electrahealth.com/stetzerizer_filters_for_dirty_electricity.html – but seeing as the EMI issue is really only coming from my laptop (and the LED lights but I’m going to change those), I’m wondering if there are any other options besides getting a lot of filters.
If you have any advice I’d greatly appreciate it! Thank you very much Jeromy!
Jeromy
Thanks for your comment Ian. I explained what I would do in your situation in the email to you.
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
Can Trifield really measure EMI? It can measure Electric fields but not EMI I thought.
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
Yes, it has some ability to detect EMI (higher frequency magnetic fields). Read the description for it about 1/2 way down this page:
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/suppress.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#A150
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks, is EMI nothing but higher frequency Magnetic Fields?
Jeromy
Yes, in the KHz and low MHz range.
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
My Television(TV) and Internet provider is the same and it offers this through a single RG-11 cable coming into my home.
Which is the weakest co-axial cable that can be still used to run standard definition TV and low speed internet like 2-5MBPS?
My provider is providing cable through RG-11 and internal wiring at my home is done through a splitter which connects 3 TVs and 1 internet router is RG-6.
From what I hear, RG-11 is very powerful. RG-6 is powerful but not as powerful as RG-11. RG-58 or RG-59 is less powerful.
I was thinking of using RG-58 or RG-59 from the nearest splitter into home. I just hope this somehow reduces the strong Electromagnetic interference (EMI) coming into my home.
Any ideas?
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
For the EMI that comes into the TV/Internet wiring from outside, my local EMF consultant recommended me to earth/ground the wire outside my home, or if this is not possible, then earth/ground it at the entry point of my home. He says that if the wire is carrying any stray current, it will be gone. He claims that this method should be very useful in my case.
Yash Rungta
Do you agree and have any views? Any link to your article/video on how best to achieve this?
Jeromy
Hi Yash,
It would depend on the nature of the EMI. If it is stray current on the co-axial cable, then that would help. However, if it is generated from the data line itself and its connection to your modem, that might not help as much.
In the US, this company makes data line filters:
Genisco Filters:
http://www.genisco.com/
I would try grounding your line first. This neutral current isolator for a cable TV connection my help:
https://www.electrahealth.com/cable_tv_current_isolator.html?a_aid=esh
My best,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks Jeromy, I am checking these out. 🙂
Will one ferrite core on the coaxial wiring also help?
Jeff E
Hello. I’m here because I just got an Xfinity account and cannot get the modem/router to stop emitting radiation–even after disabling wifi and putting it in Bridge mode. I’ll probably go ahead and purchase the ARRIS TM822R, but wonder if I also need a router. I’m only going to use one device–my desktop computer– and possibly run a corded phone through the internet connection. Would I still need a router in this case? Thanks.
Jeromy
Hi Jeff,
Yes, it is notoriously difficult to turn off the “Community WiFi” with the Xfinity modem/router combo. I discuss here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
You won’t need a router if you are only using one device. If you need a router, check out Step #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Lyndsey
Hi Jeromy,
I am not technical at all, in fact everything you all are talking about sounds like a foreign language. However I desperately want to have a low-EMF home.
I have an AT&T router, is there any way to have a low EMF home with an ATT router? I disabled wi-fi and am running a 50′ unsheileded cat6 cable from my router to my laptop which I thought was enough but I’m reading on this site that it is not! Now I’m freaking out wondering how and if I’ll be able to make the necessary changes without an engineering degree! I’m also wondering if this wired setup is actually exposing me to more EMF than my setup of wi-fi and faraday cage around the router.
Can you recommend a meter that measures both magnetic and electric?
I use the built in keyboard and touchpad on my laptop. With all the anti-EMF rigging, will this ever be safe or is it only safe to use a plug in mouse and keyboard? Why doesn’t the EMF travel through the mouse and keyboard cords?
I know this won’t be fixed overnight but if you could give me a few tips as to where to start my mitigation with my setup, that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Lyndsey
Jeromy
Hi Lyndsey,
Great questions!
Here are some ideas for you:
1.) It’s great that you disabled the WiFi on your AT&T modem. That is an important first step. Grounding your ethernet is basically the advanced step after that. Most electrically sensitive people do better by doing that too.
2.) Using a router guard is not the best option. First, your laptop will still be emitting WiFi, which is the worst part of a wireless setup. It’s right next to you. Second, router guards don’t work that well. Watch this:
Does Shielding Your WiFi Router Actually Work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iJS9obfGxI
3.) In your shoes, I would get package #2 here to measure RF, MF and EF:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
You will be getting these two meters and an AM radio:
https://safelivingtechnologies.com/products/safe-and-sound-classic.html?aff=3
https://safelivingtechnologies.com/ME3830B/?aff=3
You get the 5% discount with my code EMFA.
4.) The simplest way to ground your Ethernet system is to get two CAT7 shielded Ethernet cables and the Ground adapter. You plug the ground adapter into a grounded electrical socket.
Ground adapter: https://www.electrahealth.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
Ethernet cables: https://amzn.to/2CWrLTI
5.) I always encourage using a wired mouse and external keyboard as distance is your friend with EMFs. Having your hands on the processor, etc of a laptop all day isn’t low-EMF.
You can see my laptop setup here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Low-EMF-Laptop-scaled.jpg
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Recommended-EMF-Meters-2019-at-Computer-Safe-and-Sound-Pro.jpg
https://www.emfanalysis.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Low-EMF-Laptop-Setup.jpg
6.) If you want to look at low-EMF laptops, here are my suggestions:
See #5 here for my low-EMF laptop suggestions: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
Along with my recent comment on Low-EMF Laptops here: https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/#comment-25217
Hopefully this helps. Reach out with any questions!
Jeromy
Miriam
I already have the Arris Surfboard SBG6580 which you didn’t mention. It has 4 Ethernet ports on it. We currently use it as a wireless router and want to switch to Ethernet. Do you know if this router would work or should I get a different one?
Also I’m wondering how a WiFi router stops sending signals…like you plug in the Ethernet cable and it automatically stops sending through the air and only sends it through the cable?
Jeromy
Hi Miriam,
Great questions.
It looks like the WiFi is always on with your modem. You can see if there is a way to disable this in the settings, but I doubt it. You would check with an RF meter like I list here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
Most of my clients get a wired-only modem and then a JRS eco-router that has a simple on/off button for WiFi and emits much less RF when the WiFi is on.
See Step #2 in this article: https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Ricardo
Hey Jeromy,
Do you happen to know how can I build the ethernet grounding block?
I’m in South America and can easily find the female to female ethernet adapter, but I would not know where to connect the ground wire to connect directly to my grounding rod.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ricardo
Jeromy
Hi Ricardo,
Thanks for writing.
As long as you have metal to metal all the way out to your ground stake, you should be good. You would connect the Ethernet adapters and your ground wire using aluminum foil tape like this:
https://safelivingtechnologies.com/products/aluminum-foil-tape.html?aff=3
Grounding it all would look like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMlWSPXb6Zc
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Anna
Hello Jeromy,
Is the Radio Shack 464 model just as good as 467 at detecting dirty electricity?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Yes, that will work too.
If the Radio Shack AM radios are not available on Ebay, I also recommend a TECSUN shortwave radio to measure different bands of EMI frequencies. The MW band is similar to AM.
You can find this here: https://amzn.to/3jqPlPt
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Emily
Hi Jeromy,
I have your book and I’ve read your recommendations for meters. Can you please clarify one thing:
I have the Gigahertz S ME 3851A. In your book you say that this measures both electric and magnetic fields. But on your Meters page you seem to say this meter is just for electric and to use the Alpha Labs UHS2 for magnetic.
Can you please clarify?
Also, I know you say distance from source of any frequencies is key and that you have to measure but if someone doesn’t have a meter, is there some formula to calculate strength of field from a powerline by distance if you know the power flowing through the line (14,400v)?
Lastly, is it a good thing if a home has its own transformer? I’m in a rural area and each home has its own.
Also, the electric co says it can replace a smart meter with a Landis Gyr Focus ALF sm2s meter. I found conflicting info online on whether it’s a smart meter or not, some ppl say it’s AMI.
Do you know anything about it? If it still transmits will it stop working if I turn off power at night? Is there a way to install an analog meter myself?
Jeromy
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing.
1.) The UHS2 measures the magnetic field in all 3 axis, which gives you a more accurate reading. The ME3851A is only single axis, so you have to turn it multiple times (X, Y, Z axis) and do a calculation to get the actual magnetic field. You can just take the highest reading from the ME3851A and go with that as well.
This is why I typically recommend the UHS2 as well. These videos will help with meters:
How to Use Your EMF Meters: https://youtu.be/_aVINxa2ERA
Why inexpensive EMF meters don’t work: https://youtu.be/TFcl05hkVkE
2.) There really is no way to “guesstimate” an EMF measurement. There are simply too many variables. Most times there are only large fields if something has been built or wired improperly or if you are really close to a powerline or cell tower.
3.) The Landis Focus meters appear to be simple digital electrical meters that have an option to add in AMI components later (such as an external RF antenna). As long as your particular meter is not transmitting RF (easily tested by an RF meter), then I would feel comfortable having that digital meter on my own home.
Having an analog meter is best, but that needs to be done through your utility. If you try to put one on yourself (with the help of an electrician), the electric co may cut off your power.
In areas where there is no opt-out possibility, moving the meter base away from the home to the street is often beneficial. It is expensive however.
Let me know how things go.
Jeromy
Emily
Jeromy, would covering the meter with a guard be comparable to having a digital meter or moving the meter off the house? I ask because it’s quite expensive to switch out the smart meter compared to getting a guard.
Emily
Yash Rungta
Hey Jeromy,
Hope you’re doing good.
I noticed that you have a page for United Kingdom: https://www.emfanalysis.com/united-kingdom/
I would love if you have one for Australia and India too. Both these countries, just like the rest of the world, is facing an exponential rise in radiation. And each country is different with respect to the internet service providers and electrical system.
Also, I remember you mentioning that its best to go for the slowest available plan from an internet service provider. But someone told me:
“No that is not true the slowest plans are the worst because the towers and your connection are constantly interacting with each other. Getting fast internet made a huge difference for me.”
I can somewhat relate to this. When I have to watch a long video(say 30 mins) online, I prefer to download it rather than watch it online. Because for some reason, when I stream it LIVE, there are EMI emissions for 30 long minutes and it gives me headaches. But when I download, its just 1 minute of download and then 30 minutes of enjoyment.
Jeromy
Thanks Yash. I’ll consider making pages for those countries.
At this time, I don’t have enough specific information for those locations. It’s typically best to work with a local EMF consultant who knows the local situation well (specific ISPs and equipment, etc.). You ultimately need to figure out the best practices for your area anyway. What works in other countries can be a good guide for you.
When I state that slower internet is typically better, it’s because Gigabit modems/routers tend to produce more EMI due to the switching technology used. This isn’t always the case, but is a good rule of thumb. Ultimately, you have to cherry pick the modems/routers/equipment that work well for your body.
If your friend is connecting to cell towers or WiFi routers using wireless, well, then they are not electrically sensitive. I haven’t used WiFi in nearly 10 years. . .
Finally, yes, it’s always a good idea to download what you want to watch rather than stream it while watching. There is more EMI when you are streaming something to your laptop. Best to download first, then disconnect the Ethernet if possible. If you download using wireless, then do so ahead of time and then watch the video offline.
Using the grounded Ethernet option in the article above will help with wired streaming.
Hope this is of use.
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Thanks Jeromy for detailed reply! 🙂
The friend actually met me on an online EHS forum in Australia. I doubt he is using Wifi at all as he is also EHS.
AJ
Hi Jeromy, thank you for all your help. Do you recommend any grounding pad for someone who doesn’t have an optimal low EMF setup but has to be on/near a computer every day?
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
Thanks for your question.
In short, no, I don’t recommend this. I explain why here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/is-grounding-good-for-you/
Best to ground your laptop / Ethernet connection rather than yourself.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Ferenc
Clever idea, this. Minimalist setup, laptop on its battery, the switch provides isolation from the incoming cable, the shield of the cable is connected to ground, using mostly standard products. It works well in your situation.
I would like to add something, I hope you can appreciate that.
Many devices already have the shield of their ethernet ports connected to ground. For example most desktop computers.
You could save the grounding wire then, but there is a pitfall too:
When using multiple devices of that type with a switch or router that has shielded ports too… a ground loop is created with the shielded cables. Which could make things worse.
In such a combination, one would be better off with a plastic switch like you used. Or maybe a short piece of unshielded cable on the side of the switch combined with a normal inline CAT6/7 coupler.
It makes me wonder: What would work better: grounded cable shields? Or grounded switch/router and devices.
I.e. is most of the troubling EMF coming from the incoming cable and the switched mode power supply or from the actual signals on the cables?
Over all I want to say: keep up the good work! You take your time explaining things and that helps a lot. There is still a lot of ignorance about this EMF/EHS topic. We need some people to step up and raise their voice. May God bless you.
Nathan
Hi Jeromy!
Thanks for providing this wonderful info.
Could you recommend a non wifi router that it is compatible with Xfinity that has voip capabilities? I know you say voip has issues for emf sensitive people but I’m at the mercy of my household and they will not go back to Landlines service due to the company providing it jacking up the prices. They currently have an x1 variant. Even with Wifi shutoff, Hotspot off it still produces a wifi signal which I’m told is a hidden security signal and they won’t acknowledge it or turn it off. I’ve placed hvac aluminum tape on it in layers with breathing holes, along with a faraday cage flexible net bought off Amazon but it still gets out!
Thanks in advance!
Jeromy
Hi Nathan,
Grateful this information is helping out.
This is a good option for a non-WiFi modem with Comcast that has a phone jack:
Arris SBV2402 Modem w/ Comcast: https://amzn.to/3jGBRhs
Many of my clients then get a wired router or this Eco Router with an on/off button for WiFi:
TRENDnet 4 port wired router (100 mbps) ($25): https://amzn.to/2XOg7Zs
ElectraHealth wired router ($90): https://www.electrahealth.com/wifi_free_wired_only_router.html?aff=2
High Speed Asus AC1900 Eco Router: https://www.jrseco.com/p/jrs-eco-100-wifi-d2-on-asus?c=6680
The AC1900 only has the WiFi on when a device connects to it. Then it radiates at 90% less power than other routers. It also has an “on/off” button for WiFi so it can be completely turned off. The speeds of this router are very high ~ up to 400 mbps for WiFi and over a gigabit for wired connections.
JRS offers my clients a discount of 7.5% on any purchase. You will enter this code at checkout: JJ21FHRE
And, yes, a router guard is often not enough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iJS9obfGxI
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Nathan
Omg! Thanks Jeromy! Can I just use my Netgear switches to share the internet via ethernet cables? This is what we re doing with the x1 fwiw.
Jeromy
Hi Nathan,
Yes, that should work. However, sometimes you do need a router to allow for more than one computer to connect at a time. Depends on the modem that you are using.
Jeromy